Upper Build Question

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  • jonnyl

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 23, 2009
    5,969
    Frederick
    I have an end goal in mind, and want to verify that it's viable and that I have the steps in the right order. Thanks for any feedback.

    Goals:

    • 14.5" middy barrel with pinned comp to get to 16" (Daniel Defense with 1.5 Battlecomp)
    • pinned FSB (included with barrel)
    • free float single piece handguard (YHM Lightweight mid length)
    Are these the right steps:

    • Remove FSB
    • Remove delta ring assembly
    • Attach barrel with barrel nut that came with the handguard (torque properly and ensure alignment)
    • Attach handguard
    • Re-attach FSB and pin
    • Attach comp
    • Take the whole upper to a professional to pin/weld
    • Resist urge to put the upper on the lower before pinning is done :)


    I built my only other upper, and it went very smoothly. My only concern here is that if I miss something I'm kinda stuck after the comp is pinned, and I can't really do any testing until after the pinning.


    If it's totally idiotic to use a one piece handguard in this application just let me know :D



    I'm not really against a 16" barrel, but the the 14.5 is a little more evil for my o'malley tribute rifle...
     
    Last edited:

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    Sounds like you got the steps listed properly, just watch the taper pins on the FSB, they can be a bitch to drive out sometimes. More so if you try driving them out the wrong way...
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,503
    AA Co
    Agree with Brad. I have used several yhm rails and they work great. Just put one of the smaller customizable ones on my 300bk pistol build. Sounds like you have the proper order, be sure the dust cover is installed too.. lol ;)
     

    jimbobborg

    Oddball caliber fan
    Aug 2, 2010
    17,122
    Northern Virginia
    You may have problems removing the flash hider, as in you'll have to destroy it and maybe damage the barrel. I'd suggest you get a different upper if you want a free float barreled upper.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    You may have problems removing the flash hider, as in you'll have to destroy it and maybe damage the barrel. I'd suggest you get a different upper if you want a free float barreled upper.

    He's talking about installing the rail before getting it pinned/welded. :)
     

    photoracer

    Competition Shooter
    Oct 22, 2010
    3,318
    West Virginia
    I have an end goal in mind, and want to verify that it's viable and that I have the steps in the right order. Thanks for any feedback.

    Goals:

    • 14.5" middy barrel with pinned comp to get to 16" (Daniel Defense with 1.5 Battlecomp)
    • pinned FSB (included with barrel)
    • free float single piece handguard (YHM Lightweight mid length)
    Are these the right steps:

    • Remove FSB
    • Remove delta ring assembly
    • Attach barrel with barrel nut that came with the handguard (torque properly and ensure alignment)
    • Attach handguard
    • Re-attach FSB and pin
    • Attach comp
    • Take the whole upper to a professional to pin/weld
    • Resist urge to put the upper on the lower before pinning is done :)


    I built my only other upper, and it went very smoothly. My only concern here is that if I miss something I'm kinda stuck after the comp is pinned, and I can't really do any testing until after the pinning.


    If it's totally idiotic to use a one piece handguard in this application just let me know :D



    I'm not really against a 16" barrel, but the the 14.5 is a little more evil for my o'malley tribute rifle...
    If you want something that can come off without trying to unweld the FH or comp I suggest chucking the FSB and get a YHM clamp on gas block w/ flip front sight. That is how I built mine. I built mine from scratch with pieces. I used a Samson Evolution carbine length free float handguard because I had one in my parts. I prefer the Samson or Troy to the YHM modular handguard.
    My goal was to make everything able to come off the upper inspite of the welded on FH (I used a PSA Pigsticker Comp because it already has the hole drilled for the pin to be welded in). I was going to use a YHM Phantom QD 5.56 FH just so I could suppress it later but decided to save that for a later 11.5" barrel build.
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,032
    Elkton, MD
    If you want something that can come off without trying to unweld the FH or comp I suggest chucking the FSB and get a YHM clamp on gas block w/ flip front sight. That is how I built mine. I built mine from scratch with pieces. I used a Samson Evolution carbine length free float handguard because I had one in my parts. I prefer the Samson or Troy to the YHM modular handguard.
    My goal was to make everything able to come off the upper inspite of the welded on FH (I used a PSA Pigsticker Comp because it already has the hole drilled for the pin to be welded in). I was going to use a YHM Phantom QD 5.56 FH just so I could suppress it later but decided to save that for a later 11.5" barrel build.

    Clamp On FSBs are a bad shortcut. Very unreliable.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    Clamp On FSBs are a bad shortcut. Very unreliable.

    I tend to agree with this.

    I'll use a dual set-screw gas block, but I like to put 2 drops of Rocksett onto the gas block seat, locate the block, give it a slight twist to distribute the Rocksett over a larger surface area, and then tighten down the set-screws and let it sit for 12 hours.

    Using that method, I have yet to have a gas-block shift out of alignment and cause any issues.
     

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