- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,995
Yes.
End Cap (Not Baffle) Strike!!!
- Thread starter Squaregrouper
- Start date
The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast
Member Benefits:
No ad networks! Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership Discuss anti-gun legislation Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses Discover free outdoor shooting areas View up to date on firearm-related events Share photos & video with other members ...and so much more!
Member Benefits:
Yes.
Squaregrouper
Kragaphile
OP Update...
I bought a drill rod (.21875") and a .223 "cartridge" laser bore sighter- Yes, I'm an Amazon Prime junkie.
The bore sighter and scotch tape on the suppressor effluent method showed that I was not perfectly centered at the endcap, but well within tolerance for the newly bored out endcap.
The drill rod demonstrated the exact same thing; only problem being that after ~.5" into the barrel, I met resistance from the barrel and didn't want to force the drill rod.
I'm guessing I need to find a machinist who can turn 20" of the rod down by ~.003" so I can have the drill rod fully pass through the barrel before making a conclusion. It is probably cheaper to buy a new, narrower, drill rod.
Thoughts?
I bought a drill rod (.21875") and a .223 "cartridge" laser bore sighter- Yes, I'm an Amazon Prime junkie.
The bore sighter and scotch tape on the suppressor effluent method showed that I was not perfectly centered at the endcap, but well within tolerance for the newly bored out endcap.
The drill rod demonstrated the exact same thing; only problem being that after ~.5" into the barrel, I met resistance from the barrel and didn't want to force the drill rod.
I'm guessing I need to find a machinist who can turn 20" of the rod down by ~.003" so I can have the drill rod fully pass through the barrel before making a conclusion. It is probably cheaper to buy a new, narrower, drill rod.
Thoughts?
Did you do this after cleaning or at least dry patching the bore?
Are you inserting it from the breech/chamber?
.21875 may be a little too close to bore diameter. Geissele uses .002" under bore diameter to allow for variations in bores (both diameter and straightness).
Make sure you try the laser in 4 different positions rotating it. I have found they don't always come to you perfectly straight .
Usually if you twist it, the dot may wobble.
If it does. The center of all points is close to true center.
Usually if you twist it, the dot may wobble.
If it does. The center of all points is close to true center.
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
Cnc warrior makes a cheaper alignment gauge.
Its $15
As Melnic said, the laser is nit trustworthy.
Its $15
As Melnic said, the laser is nit trustworthy.
TapRackBang
Cheaper Than Diamonds
As always, Chad delivers. Ordering both shortly. Thanks for the tip!
Squaregrouper
Kragaphile
Cleaned and lubed the bore (only 25rds fired since last cleaning) and was able to get the drill rod down without a struggle. It was tight, but I used "oversized cleaning patch pressure). The drill rod is clear of all baffles and the end cap is almost perfectly centered.
I'm really starting to think the issue-as pointed out previously- was that my threads loosed while shooting. I shot 20rds suppressed without tightening and the can rattled when it was removed.
That is quite possible, especially if it was the first time shooting it after building it. Many suppressors will easily become misaligned if they are not tight up against the shoulder of the barrel (or muzzle device on a qd), or if there is any 'settling' of the internals when first shot on a form 1 suppressor.
You really need a clean bore to use a straightness gauge, a little fouling will likely interfere. At least a few dry patches to remove any residue off the lands.
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,995
FWIW, I have NEVER shot through a can until I've checked alignment with a bore gauge, even waiting months after receiving my stamp.
Agree and also ensure the rounds you are firing are shooting well and not keyholing first!
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,995
Exactly. I shoot lots of hand loads and always make sure they put pretty, round holes in the target before adding a can(hand loads or factory).
Squaregrouper
Kragaphile
I shot 5 rounds un-suppressed and confirmed the holes were perfect circles.
I then removed the upper, attached the can and visually looked through (not ideal- I know that now). Looking from the can to the breech gives a much better picture than looking from the breech to the can. I was able to clearly see baffles, spacers, muzzle, then lands and grooves clearly. The barrel actually gave the illusion of being polygonal when looking at it that way.
Thanks everyone for the help. As stated previously, this was my first Form 1 build and I'm a complete newbie to suppressors.
Tomorrow, I will give it another try (confirming alignment with the drill rod first) and post back with what happened.
I then removed the upper, attached the can and visually looked through (not ideal- I know that now). Looking from the can to the breech gives a much better picture than looking from the breech to the can. I was able to clearly see baffles, spacers, muzzle, then lands and grooves clearly. The barrel actually gave the illusion of being polygonal when looking at it that way.
Thanks everyone for the help. As stated previously, this was my first Form 1 build and I'm a complete newbie to suppressors.
Tomorrow, I will give it another try (confirming alignment with the drill rod first) and post back with what happened.
Hawkeye
The Leatherstocking
- Jan 29, 2009
- 3,971
Thank you Chad!
I wanted to pick some up, but the Geiselle ones are so expensive. These work as well, you think?
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
The .223 one works great. The .308 one is too large to fit through most .308 suppressors.
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,995
Only thing I'll say is, trust the breach to muzzle view over the muzzle to breach view. If you have a Class 3 dealer near you, maybe take the upper with can attached and ask if they can gauge it.
Hawkeye
The Leatherstocking
- Jan 29, 2009
- 3,971
Ok cool.
One other question: with these, or the Geiselle rods, or others like them, how do you store them? I imagine that you've got to be careful about leaning them against stuff at an angle long term or whatever in case they take a set.
Squaregrouper
Kragaphile
I took it out today and it shot fine. Other than significant POI shift (6" @ 50yds) I didn't have any issues. The only thing I did differently was I confirmed alignment and checked how tight the threads were every 3rd shot.
I think I confirmed what my mistake was- shooting 20rds without checked whether it loosened up.
Did I mentioned how impressed I am with the suppression? I'm pretty happy, as it is definitely hearing safe and then some.
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
The geisseles come with a storage tube to protect them from corrosion and banging into things.
The CNC warrior rods I store in a plastic parts bin from harbor freight. They have removable dividers and only cost about $5.
Gimme a few mins and ill take pictures.
antco
Ultimate Member
Some of the alignment issues mentioned in this thread are why I plunked down the extra $$ for a suppressor built by the same man who built the rifle it's mounted on. I screwed it on and pulled the trigger with no worries in the world. Damned tube even has my birthday as the serial number.
Semper Noctem
Desk Rabbit
Everyone makes mistakes... never assume.
Users who are viewing this thread
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Clearance Liqui Moly Motorbike 4T SAE 15W-50 Street | Full Synthetic Motor Oil | 4 Liter (4 Viewers)- Latest: mpollan1
Forum statistics
Latest threads
-
Clearance Liqui Moly Motorbike 4T SAE 15W-50 Street | Full Synthetic Motor Oil | 4 Liter (4 Viewers)
- Started by mpollan1
- Replies: 0
-
-
-
-
-
-