Keystone70
MSI Executive Member
Download the Chirp software to program it. If you didn't get the program cable, you can get it on Amazon
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Amateur Radio FAQ
- Thread starter K31
- Start date
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That would be awesome. I could study the tech and my daughter wants to go for her advanced soon too.
I'll pm you to come get them when I get over this stomach flu the next coupla days.
My bad, I have the Technician and General books. I have not gone Advanced yet.That would be awesome. I could study the tech and my daughter wants to go for her advanced soon too.
I'll pm you to come get them when I get over this stomach flu the next coupla days.
You are welcome to them. I also have the programing cable and CHIRP loaded up on the PC. I can load up the pre-selected local files that K31 generously passed along so you can start listening to local traffic while you study.
Let me know when you feel up to it.
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Maybe Extra?!
(Too damn many things going on at the same time)
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Maybe you could make some side money selling someone a used Advanced manual. Cheap!
More info for Jan 28th MMARC Hamfest, Odenton area...
https://sites.google.com/site/marylandmobileers/hamfests-1/hamfest-2
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gamer_jim
Podcaster
I'm playing with my Airspy SDR. I can clearly hear digital signals on several bands. For example, 50.211 right now.
How do I determine which mode they are using?
I am using fldigi and tried several modes but nothing is legible.
What am I doing wrong?
How do I determine which mode they are using?
I am using fldigi and tried several modes but nothing is legible.
What am I doing wrong?
vette97
Ultimate Member
I owned an MP1. I gave it away. Vertical is not a very good way to go unless you can put down an abundant number or radials. The buddipole would be better. However, the best portable antenna I have ever owned and still own is a magnetic loop. The Alex Loop works really well on a tripod. I worked Cuba QRP on 20m last week while visiting family, inside the living room.
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vette97
Ultimate Member
I have learned the hard way that it is nearly impossible to figure out what you're hearing if you don't already recognize it. I haven't found any decoding software that knows it all and tells you what it is.
I just listened and I don't hear anything on 50.211 but conditions may have changed since you listened there. If you have a waterfall display and can zoom in and screen shot, we can take a guess at it.
Google Known Digital Modes and you will get results for audio and waterfall examples.
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Deep Thought
Active Member
+1 for loop antennas. Big fan of the Chameleon P-LOOP. I have the 1.0 but I hear the P-LOOP 2.0 is even better.
I've worked Europe from my bedroom, too cool. Also Carl @Chameleon is very responsive on email even at odd hours. Great support for a great product.
vette97
Ultimate Member
I've been neglecting this thread for some time. I saw some posts about kinds of radios some are considering. I used to not care, but after throwing so much money away over 29 years of hamming (even though I got a lot back when selling the gear), I can honestly say that Perroni's Buy Once, Cry Once principle covers way more than just firearms and tacticool gear.
I wish something like this was available when I started hamming: http://www.sherweng.com/table.html This is a true radio to radio comparison on how well they hear. There is nothing more frustrating than not being able to hear the ham you're trying to work. Conditions have to be magic in order for DX to hear you, but let's face it, we spend more time listening than talking, so it behooves us to at least enjoy what we can hear. Take a look at the Dynamic Range columns on that site (narrow and wide). Dynamic Range is the difference in dB between the noise floor and the level of an incoming signal which will cause 1 dB of gain compression. The higher the number, the better the rig can hear.
I used to buy and sell equipment based on how well it heard and how well people heard me. That Heathkit SB-102 was the best I ever had until I went solid state in the early 90's. I could mess around trying to amplify my audio out, but could never make the rig hear better, so I'd sell it for something that looked cooler and had some ham recommendations to go along with it. Most were a bust. And nothing could compare to the receivers we used in the Army when I was a Morse Interceptor. However, finally, gone are the days of buying and selling things, trying to improve my situation. I'm a true Elecraft man now and didn't know why until I bought a KX3 and KXPA100 and THEN saw this chart. I also have the KX2 for portable ops.
Find a radio that works well for your situation, but if you're not happy, come back to the chart and trade up.
I wish something like this was available when I started hamming: http://www.sherweng.com/table.html This is a true radio to radio comparison on how well they hear. There is nothing more frustrating than not being able to hear the ham you're trying to work. Conditions have to be magic in order for DX to hear you, but let's face it, we spend more time listening than talking, so it behooves us to at least enjoy what we can hear. Take a look at the Dynamic Range columns on that site (narrow and wide). Dynamic Range is the difference in dB between the noise floor and the level of an incoming signal which will cause 1 dB of gain compression. The higher the number, the better the rig can hear.
I used to buy and sell equipment based on how well it heard and how well people heard me. That Heathkit SB-102 was the best I ever had until I went solid state in the early 90's. I could mess around trying to amplify my audio out, but could never make the rig hear better, so I'd sell it for something that looked cooler and had some ham recommendations to go along with it. Most were a bust. And nothing could compare to the receivers we used in the Army when I was a Morse Interceptor. However, finally, gone are the days of buying and selling things, trying to improve my situation. I'm a true Elecraft man now and didn't know why until I bought a KX3 and KXPA100 and THEN saw this chart. I also have the KX2 for portable ops.
Find a radio that works well for your situation, but if you're not happy, come back to the chart and trade up.
One way to determine the id of a particular signal start is to look for the frequency(s) that are used for a particular mode, for instance, if you are looking at PSK31 it is found on several bands around nn070 ex. 14.070Mhz for 20 Meters. This isn't hard-and-fast and it can vary by International region but a web search will give you those "band plans" for the particular frequencies. http://www.podxs070.com/frequently-asked-questions/psk31-frequencies
Second, you should be able to recognise the pattern of the particular mode in the waterfall. PSK31 looks (to me anyway) like a double helix when you zoom in on it. This combined with the width should help narrow it down.
You can narrow down what modes you may see by looking for them during contests. Look on the ARRL contest listings for a contest that is using a specific mode and you'll typically find the bands are full of those signals.
Also, there is the sound, these you need to just listen to to learn them, but they are somewhat unique. RTTY has a rapid-fire machine-like sound, JT65 has a sing-song sound for instance.
Here is a link to the SigInt wiki that has samples of not only Amateur radio signals but almost anything else and it's still growing:
https://www.sigidwiki.com/wiki/Category:Amateur_Radio
Finally, you need to make sure that your equipment is configure correctly for the digital mode you are trying to decode. PSK31 for instance takes some adjustment of the input audio levels so you are not either overdriving or underdriving the sound card. JT65-like nodes require a very accurate time source. Typically, out-of-the-box NTP won't cut it. There are better freeware programs out there.
One other resource, Unallocated Spaces every so often has a signals ID class where you decode things. They require you to have a Linux (only no VMs) laptop and your own SDR dongle. The types that work well are listed.
Last edited:
- Jan 31, 2009
- 3,285
New digital modes are popping up now every few months. You are probably hearing FT8, or MSK144 or maybe JT65. I don't think old fldigi will do any of those, you need WSJT-X for all these new modes.
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gamer_jim
Podcaster
Thanks, I'll check that out.
E.Shell
Ultimate Member
I have the 8900 in the truck and use the HT the same way
For outgoing TX, this is unavoidable.
This aspect depends on the returning repeater's signal strength and how you program both radios.
I use a dual band HT (VX-7r) and run as follows:
1) HT is set to TX @ 70cm/440 to the 8900
2) The 8900 hears the HT and retransmits on 2m/146, and since my call sign is part of the TX from the HT, both of my stations are legally ID'ing.
3) Distant repeater hears the 8900 and sends it out to its coverage area
4) The HT is set to receive on 2 meters, and I can hear the traffic from the distant repeater on the HT. I do not use the 8900 to retransmit the distant repeater signal back to the HT.
This way, I have fully ID'ed any transmissions from my own equipment. I set the 8900 to constantly receive on 70cm/440 and require an incoming tone to receive the HT and activate the repeat function. I can normally hear the distant repeaters directly on the HT just fine, but cannot reach them with 5 watts on a rubber duck.
BTW, is anyone here a member of the Easton club?
Good to see you back Ed... How’s things over on the Shore?
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I have a lead on a used Kenwood TS 50,
http://www.kenwood.com/i/products/info/amateur/ts50s.html
I'm looking for comments on this transceiver as to suitability as a starter set and what a good price would be.
Thanks for any help.
.
http://www.kenwood.com/i/products/info/amateur/ts50s.html
I'm looking for comments on this transceiver as to suitability as a starter set and what a good price would be.
Thanks for any help.
.
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