Tool chest reloading bench

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  • Just bought a craftsmen 26x18x27 4 drawer with wheels and am going with 3/4" pine on top but am unsure if I should if I should stick with pine under the top inside the top drawer and just screwing the two together with deck screws or put in a 1/4" steel plate and bolt it through.

    I'm already planning on taking the wheels off because it's not moving anytime soon and space is sorta at a premium. I'm going to take the bottom drawer out and stack lead ingots for stability. Don't have the option of lagging to the wall or the floor. I'm also going with an inline fab for my rock chucker. What say you?
     

    guzma393

    Active Member
    Jan 15, 2020
    739
    Severn, MD
    I bolt myns directly to the bench without a steel plate, but one of the bolts passes through the steel frame of the bench, therefore giving it more stability.

    As for stability, I got away with loading pistol on a single stage/turret press with the bench just resting along the wall. Rifle/progressive press operations however, are a different story. Operations that requires heavy upstrokes/downstrokes winded up tipping the bench even with added weights.

    I winded up lagging the bench to the wall to handle rough/heavy upstrokes from progressives/reloading rifle/or swaging.
     
    I bolt myns directly to the bench without a steel plate, but one of the bolts passes through the steel frame of the bench, therefore giving it more stability.

    As for stability, I got away with loading pistol on a single stage/turret press with the bench just resting along the wall. Rifle/progressive press operations however, are a different story. Operations that requires heavy upstrokes/downstrokes winded up tipping the bench even with added weights.

    I winded up lagging the bench to the wall to handle rough/heavy upstrokes from progressives/reloading rifle/or swaging.

    Would several more structural screws do just as well at holding the bench to the wall and floor? Those holes would be easier to mend if/when the bench is moved I would think.
     

    Swaim13

    Active Member
    Jun 11, 2017
    337
    Would several more structural screws do just as well at holding the bench to the wall and floor? Those holes would be easier to mend if/when the bench is moved I would think.

    Tbh, I lag screwed my work bench to the studs through the drywall. If you are going to have to patch it later anyways, why not do it all the way?

    You could try the screws as anything is better than nothing
    I would put larger washers and likely use more screws to hold it tight
     

    PowPow

    Where's the beef?
    Nov 22, 2012
    4,713
    Howard County
    Oh yeah, those screws would drag that thin gauge through the drywall.

    Put a couple 1x4 between your unit and the drywall. Use screws long enough to anchor. (don't forget washers) The boards will keep the unit from damaging the walls and paint. You'll still need to fix the screw holes when you leave the dwelling, but it will be much more solid for your reloading. You will like that!
     

    Mule

    Just Mule
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 14, 2013
    659
    I tend to over-engineer things. But, if I were doing something like that, this is likely how I'd do it:

    I'd go with ¾" plywood for the top. However, I'd use two layers, to get a 1 ½" thickness, and would cut them with at least an inch of overhang on either side, to take advantage of the sidewalls of the cabinet as an extra vertical support.

    I'd go with another ¾" layer on the underside of the cabinet, to create a very solid top. I'd use ¼" flat head machine screws and Tee Nuts to bolt the 1 ½" of plywood on the top, to the ¾" of plywood on the bottom. Then, I'd countersink the screws, so that they're just beneath the surface of the workbench top. I'd also probably use a Forstner bit to lightly countersink the Tee Nuts, also.

    To attach the unit to the wall, I'd use Spax PowerLag screws:
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-1-...Zinc-Coated-Lag-Screw-4581020700767/202041026

    Not sure if any of that would be helpful for your situation. But, figured I'd share, in case it might.

    As far as mending holes in drywall, for all intents and purposes, the holes you'd have for a construction screw, a lag screw, or the Spax PowerLag would all be about the same to patch. The larger holes would require a little more compound, but the differences would be negligible. So, I'd opt for the holding power (and ease of installation) of the PowerLag.
     
    Last edited:

    Harrys

    Short Round
    Jul 12, 2014
    3,419
    SOMD
    Bench Reloading Center

    Just bought a craftsmen 26x18x27 4 drawer with wheels and am going with 3/4" pine on top but am unsure if I should if I should stick with pine under the top inside the top drawer and just screwing the two together with deck screws or put in a 1/4" steel plate and bolt it through.

    I'm already planning on taking the wheels off because it's not moving anytime soon and space is sorta at a premium. I'm going to take the bottom drawer out and stack lead ingots for stability. Don't have the option of lagging to the wall or the floor. I'm also going with an inline fab for my rock chucker. What say you?

    Like this?
     

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