wilcam47
Ultimate Member
Anyone know what the part the flat tip screw is in called? Im trying to find the screw as mine is stripped out.
Hawken Muzzle loader
- Thread starter wilcam47
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iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
That part is known as a bolster. Always thought it was appropriately named. Cuzz it does exactly what it's called.
Being threaded, 999 times out of a 1,000 it will have to be properly indexed/machined. So the nipple tip will line up right below the hammer face/cup.
If the bolster needs to be replaced due to stripped threads that is.
Are the screw threads metric or standard? It's always possible to re-drill and re-tap one size up.
Being threaded, 999 times out of a 1,000 it will have to be properly indexed/machined. So the nipple tip will line up right below the hammer face/cup.
If the bolster needs to be replaced due to stripped threads that is.
Are the screw threads metric or standard? It's always possible to re-drill and re-tap one size up.
Doco Overboard
Ultimate Member
Just tap it and re-thread the wash out screw to the major diameter of the metric screw thats in there. Use a hex screw and just make sure it does not interfere with the nipple.
I have a CVA round ball rifle with the same bolster and in between the the nipple and the barrel side wall I drilled a tiny hole through the bolster at a forward angle that acts a vent.
It prevents erratic ignition and promotes accuracy by not allowing the cap to compress the air before it reaches the main charge for more consistency.
When I boil the barrel out after a day of shooting,I just remove the wash out screw when I dry the rifle out while its on the bench. ( water pumps through the bolster and nipple channel as well as the vent cleaning the bolster) The barrel steel is relatively soft and overworking the wash out can wear the threads over time.
Removing and replacing the bolster can be a challenge sometimes. The threads are timed but more important is keeping the hammer strike centered in the nipple. The threaded parts need to be tight but not gorilla tight.
Sometimes the bolsters are over-tightened during assembly in the soft barrel steel which is what makes the challenge.
If you don't want to get all nuts and you know the bolster is kaput, find an allen screw that will thread and hand cut perpendicular grooves in it essentially creating a tap. Shorten and dress screw as necessary.
If you choose to replace the bolster (right way) sometimes the threads inter-up the breech plug threads so be careful! This may not be the case but just a FYI.
I have a CVA round ball rifle with the same bolster and in between the the nipple and the barrel side wall I drilled a tiny hole through the bolster at a forward angle that acts a vent.
It prevents erratic ignition and promotes accuracy by not allowing the cap to compress the air before it reaches the main charge for more consistency.
When I boil the barrel out after a day of shooting,I just remove the wash out screw when I dry the rifle out while its on the bench. ( water pumps through the bolster and nipple channel as well as the vent cleaning the bolster) The barrel steel is relatively soft and overworking the wash out can wear the threads over time.
Removing and replacing the bolster can be a challenge sometimes. The threads are timed but more important is keeping the hammer strike centered in the nipple. The threaded parts need to be tight but not gorilla tight.
Sometimes the bolsters are over-tightened during assembly in the soft barrel steel which is what makes the challenge.
If you don't want to get all nuts and you know the bolster is kaput, find an allen screw that will thread and hand cut perpendicular grooves in it essentially creating a tap. Shorten and dress screw as necessary.
If you choose to replace the bolster (right way) sometimes the threads inter-up the breech plug threads so be careful! This may not be the case but just a FYI.
Doco Overboard
Ultimate Member
Just tap it and re-thread the wash out screw to the major diameter of the metric screw thats in there. Use a hex screw and just make sure it does not interfere with the nipple.
I have a CVA round ball rifle with the same bolster and in between the the nipple and the barrel side wall I drilled a tiny hole through the bolster at a forward angle that acts a vent.
It prevents erratic ignition and promotes accuracy by not allowing the cap to compress the air before it reaches the main charge for more consistency.
When I boil the barrel out after a day of shooting,I just remove the wash out screw when I dry the rifle out while its on the bench. ( water pumps through the bolster and nipple channel as well as the vent cleaning the bolster) The barrel steel is relatively soft and overworking the wash out can wear the threads over time.
Removing and replacing the bolster can be a challenge sometimes. The threads are timed but more important is keeping the hammer strike centered in the nipple. The threaded parts need to be tight but not gorilla tight.
Sometimes the bolsters are over-tightened during assembly in the soft barrel steel which is what makes the challenge.
If you don't want to get all nuts and you know the bolster is kaput, find an allen screw that will thread and hand cut perpendicular grooves in it essentially creating a tap. Shorten and dress screw as necessary.
If you choose to replace the bolster (right way) sometimes the threads inter-up the breech plug threads so be careful! This may not be the case but just a FYI.
I have a CVA round ball rifle with the same bolster and in between the the nipple and the barrel side wall I drilled a tiny hole through the bolster at a forward angle that acts a vent.
It prevents erratic ignition and promotes accuracy by not allowing the cap to compress the air before it reaches the main charge for more consistency.
When I boil the barrel out after a day of shooting,I just remove the wash out screw when I dry the rifle out while its on the bench. ( water pumps through the bolster and nipple channel as well as the vent cleaning the bolster) The barrel steel is relatively soft and overworking the wash out can wear the threads over time.
Removing and replacing the bolster can be a challenge sometimes. The threads are timed but more important is keeping the hammer strike centered in the nipple. The threaded parts need to be tight but not gorilla tight.
Sometimes the bolsters are over-tightened during assembly in the soft barrel steel which is what makes the challenge.
If you don't want to get all nuts and you know the bolster is kaput, find an allen screw that will thread and hand cut perpendicular grooves in it essentially creating a tap. Shorten and dress screw as necessary.
If you choose to replace the bolster (right way) sometimes the threads inter-up the breech plug threads so be careful! This may not be the case but just a FYI.
If it's the cleanout screw itself that's stripped, you might try Track of the Wolf for a replacement.
Blacksmith101
Grumpy Old Man
- Jun 22, 2012
- 22,253
Track Of The Wolf calls them powder drums:
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/809/1
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/809/1
wilcam47
Ultimate Member
yeah, I should have clarified the drum is fine its the cleanout screw head that stripped. I cant unscrew it to take it off.
Thanks! I knew I could count on you guys to find the part!
yeah, I should have clarified the drum is fine its the cleanout screw head that stripped. I cant unscrew it to take it off.
Glad to try to help sir.
Rusted threads? A good extended Kroil soak and some taps with a brass hammer might help if there's enough slot left to get a hollow ground screwdriver tip deep into that buggered slot.
Always something, eh?
Good luck with it!
wilcam47
Ultimate Member
Glad to try to help sir.
Rusted threads? A good extended Kroil soak and some taps with a brass hammer might help if there's enough slot left to get a hollow ground screwdriver tip deep into that buggered slot.
Always something, eh?
well I bought it used and it was almost stripped out when I got it and after sitting a couple years I tried to take it off and only ended up taking of the screw head slot
So Im going to have to drill it and use an easy out tool to get it out, thats my hopes anyhow. I ordered the screw just now. so I'll see about taking it out soon.
wilcam47
Ultimate Member
Success! I had to use an Ez-out drilled a hole then slowly backed it out...it was rusted in thats why it wouldnt come out...I received my new cleanout screw today and its installed! Thanks to all who helped me figure out the nomenclature and tips! next time I will be lubing the cleanout screw as well!
Glad you're back in action! 
wilcam47
Ultimate Member
Don H
Ultimate Member
Nipples, touch hole liners and clean-out screw always get a touch on Never-Seize after cleaning.
THIS!!!!!
same thing that is used on breech plugs for inlines. I have a stick of it that I use on my side locks and flint locks. Every time I clean one, I wipe off the old stuff and put on new stuff.
wilcam47
Ultimate Member
Nice work sir! Muchly better!
definitely lesson learned...going to be using something to protect the threads...
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