making small rubber parts

Slackdaddy · Dec 13, 2021

I will be wanting to make a "custom" hard rubber pinky shelf for a mag.
Does not have to be rubber,, but want something a little "softer" than hard plastic.
I will probably 3d print a prototype.
Is there a filament for 3D printing that is slightly "rubbery" ?

Any Ideas?

JohnC · Dec 13, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
I will be wanting to make a "custom" hard rubber pinky shelf for a mag.
Does not have to be rubber,, but want something a little "softer" than hard plastic.
I will probably 3d print a prototype.
Is there a filament for 3D printing that is slightly "rubbery" ?

Any Ideas?

Look into TPE- thermoplastic elastomer or TPU thermoplastic polyurethane. Plenty of youtube videos on the filaments.

There are some interesting uses for these filaments so don't search too deep. Those materials are better suited for bedroom toys rather than glock frames.

geda · Dec 13, 2021

Ninjatek Ninjaflex 85A is the one of the name brand TPUs, is is very flexy, I think too much for your use case. Lots of other ones in this 85A hardness area. I can only print this on a direct drive machine with a hemera. Then there Ninjatek Armadillo 75D. I bought this by accident one time and havent printed much, but is is both softish, tough and easier to print then nylon. It is pretty damn neat and I was able to print it in a bowden v6.

Another option is printing molds. You can create a negitive mold in most CAD programs and cura actually has an option to make a mold. Using this technique you could cast it directly on the magazine like a professional tool https://reprap.org/wiki/Moldmaking_Tutorial

Slackdaddy · Dec 13, 2021

That may be to soft,, something more like a very hard rubber.

JohnC said:
Look into TPE- thermoplastic elastomer or TPU thermoplastic polyurethane. Plenty of youtube videos on the filaments.

There are some interesting uses for these filaments so don't search too deep. Those materials are better suited for bedroom toys rather than glock frames.

Slackdaddy · Dec 13, 2021

Thats something I had not thought of.

geda said:
Ninjatek Ninjaflex 85A is the one of the name brand TPUs, is is very flexy, I think too much for your use case. Lots of other ones in this 85A hardness area. I can only print this on a direct drive machine with a hemera. Then there Ninjatek Armadillo 75D. I bought this by accident one time and havent printed much, but is is both softish, tough and easier to print then nylon. It is pretty damn neat and I was able to print it in a bowden v6.

Another option is printing molds. You can create a negitive mold in most CAD programs and cura actually has an option to make a mold. Using this technique you could cast it directly on the magazine like a professional tool https://reprap.org/wiki/Moldmaking_Tutorial

Melnic · Dec 13, 2021

3d Print a negative mold then use some sort of rubber 2 part mix?

ToolAA · Dec 13, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
I will be wanting to make a "custom" hard rubber pinky shelf for a mag.
Does not have to be rubber,, but want something a little "softer" than hard plastic.
I will probably 3d print a prototype.
Is there a filament for 3D printing that is slightly "rubbery" ?

Any Ideas?

Do you have a photo example of what you are trying to make? I’ve printed some flexible TPU parts before. I would describe it as the hardness of work boot soles. Not too soft like sneakers.

Slackdaddy · Dec 13, 2021

A combo of a slight mag extension spacer and a pinky shelf.
here is a pic of just a pinky shelf.

ToolAA said:
Do you have a photo example of what you are trying to make? I’ve printed some flexible TPU parts before. I would describe it as the hardness of work boot soles. Not too soft like sneakers.

ToolAA · Dec 13, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
A combo of a slight mag extension spacer and a pinky shelf.
here is a pic of just a pinky shelf.

I think just printing it in regular PLA+ would work great. It doesn’t need to be rubber. I’ve made a bunch of different mag extensions/Pic rail adapters.

twybyll · Dec 14, 2021

Have you thought about just plasti-dipping it?

I just bought some TPU today, so I can't give much advice, but mostly what I hear is to go slow and no retractions.

ToolAA · Dec 14, 2021

twybyll said:
Have you thought about just plasti-dipping it?

I just bought some TPU today, so I can't give much advice, but mostly what I hear is to go slow and no retractions.

I think the problem with TPU is that it’s still too flexible to maintain its shape under the spring pressure from a loaded mag. The slot at the top that engages the rails on the bottom if the mag is very thin. The plastic on the base plate in that area is also real thin. Maybe 1/16” but not more than 3/32”. TPU would just bend and flex.

Pinecone · Dec 14, 2021

Melnic said:
3d Print a negative mold then use some sort of rubber 2 part mix?

You mean like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Clone-Willy-Silicone-Penis-Casting/dp/B000NBS2RE?th=1

:lol2:

Melnic · Dec 14, 2021

Pinecone said:
You mean like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Clone-Willy-Silicone-Penis-Casting/dp/B000NBS2RE?th=1

Don't bring your personal hobby into this

Slackdaddy · Dec 15, 2021

Thanks,
I think I will try the PLA.

Slack

ToolAA said:
I think just printing it in regular PLA+ would work great. It doesn’t need to be rubber. I’ve made a bunch of different mag extensions/Pic rail adapters.

twybyll · Dec 15, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
Thanks,
I think I will try the PLA.

Slack

All the FOSSCAD folks recommend PLA+ over any other filament. I think running it at higher temps gives more strength if that's something you need too.

ToolAA · Dec 15, 2021

twybyll said:
[
All the FOSSCAD folks recommend PLA+ over any other filament. I think running it at higher temps gives more strength if that's something you need too.

I really like PLA+ especially compared to ABS. It is really strong when it’s printed at 230° C. I’ve made clamps and fasteners that seem as strong as injection molded parts.

Slackdaddy · Dec 16, 2021

What CAD are you using to design in?
I have worked with a few,, but nothing really struck me.
I am trying MOI (Moment of Inspiration) now.

ToolAA said:
I think just printing it in regular PLA+ would work great. It doesn’t need to be rubber. I’ve made a bunch of different mag extensions/Pic rail adapters.

ToolAA · Dec 16, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
What CAD are you using to design in?
I have worked with a few,, but nothing really struck me.
I am trying MOI (Moment of Inspiration) now.

I’m using Fusion360. I did a few introductory classes for members last year and I think it’s pretty easy to learn. There are tons of YouTube how to videos out there. I have som links in my class thread https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=244127&highlight=Fusion360

I believe it’s still free for personal non-commercial hobby use. I saw your post upthread about MOI. It looks like it will do the job but it reminded me more of Blender. If you don’t want to go the fusion 360 route, look into Blender. It’s free.

twybyll · Dec 16, 2021

ToolAA said:
I’m using Fusion360. I did a few introductory classes for members last year and I think it’s pretty easy to learn. There are tons of YouTube how to videos out there. I have som links in my class thread https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=244127&highlight=Fusion360

I believe it’s still free for personal non-commercial hobby use. I saw your post upthread about MOI. It looks like it will do the job but it reminded me more of Blender. If you don’t want to go the fusion 360 route, look into Blender. It’s free.

Just a warning, check into the licensing for F360, they're changing it around in January. You now only get ten active documents, and they've limited it in other ways.

ToolAA · Dec 16, 2021

twybyll said:
Just a warning, check into the licensing for F360, they're changing it around in January. You now only get ten active documents, and they've limited it in other ways.

Its true you can only have 10 active projects at one time hosted on their cloud server. However you can archive as many projects as you want on your own PC. A lot of the other changes were removal of some if the design and engineering modules. As well as removal of the CAM module. I do have a paid license, but honestly I could do 90% of what I do with the hobby license. The only reason I pay os to use the CAM module.

making small rubber parts

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