Installing "one" AR barrel?

teratos · Oct 29, 2021

Magnumite said:
You may consider the upper receiver facing tool while you are there. I had two igger name upper receiver and one name brand some at. The latter was the truest.

Gotta get one specifically for a BCM upper, or run the risk of cracking them. They are tight.

Bountied · Oct 29, 2021

The Magpul lug vise works well.

Slackdaddy · Oct 29, 2021

I'll keep that in mind - the help assemble, not touching my but part lol
Sitting down to finalize the ordering of the barrel.

teratos said:
If you don’t mind driving to Bel Air, I can put it together with you. I have all the necessary tools, and Chad let me touch his butt once…

Slackdaddy · Oct 29, 2021

I did read I have to heat the BCM upper, to "expand it", so the barrel will go in.

teratos said:
Gotta get one specifically for a BCM upper, or run the risk of cracking them. They are tight.

Melnic · Oct 29, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
I did read I have to heat the BCM upper, to "expand it", so the barrel will go in.

Several barrels are like that too. cool the barrel and/or heat the upper. Its not so bad. Someone told me after inserting it and making sure its all the way in to then let things warm to room temperature before actually doing the barrel nut. Forgot why he said. After doing it that way, thought I should have gotten advice from more than 1 person before doing it that way.

camo556 · Oct 29, 2021

Melnic said:
Several barrels are like that too. cool the barrel and/or heat the upper. Its not so bad. Someone told me after inserting it and making sure its all the way in to then let things warm to room temperature before actually doing the barrel nut. Forgot why he said. After doing it that way, thought I should have gotten advice from more than 1 person before doing it that way.

If the upper is hot when you install the barrel nut, it could be loose after it cools. Not sure what would happen with the cool barrel. It would expand as it warms, creating some extra torque.

SkiPatrolDude · Oct 29, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
I did read I have to heat the BCM upper, to "expand it", so the barrel will go in.

You can use a butane torch to heat the upper threads for a few minutes or you can throw the upper in a toaster at 250 for 15 minutes and then with an oven mitt, take the upper out and slide the barrel in.

Occasionally a few taps with a rubber mallet are needed to seat it fully after heating, as the upper will cool back down quickly after making contact with the barrel extension.

303_enfield · Oct 29, 2021

Does nobody use barrel vice blocks anymore?

clandestine · Oct 29, 2021

303_enfield said:
Does nobody use barrel vice blocks anymore?

I do in some cases but IMO they have too many negatives considering the modern alternatives.

The Satern blocks don't leave aluminum transfer marks like typical blocks but they cost more than a URR

Barrel blocks don't always work with some modern barrel profiles and may require you to to remove the handguards on some setups to use them for muzzle device work.

They can hide undertourqued barrel extensions too.

clandestine · Oct 29, 2021

If you use a torch or any heat on a thermal fit upper keep the temp below 275. Above 275 can degrade the strength of 7075.

Laser thermometer is your friend.

Slackdaddy · Oct 30, 2021

Good tip, and thanks for the heads up on the proper "no go" temp.
Thinking a toaster oven at 225F would do the trick?

clandestine said:
If you use a torch or any heat on a thermal fit upper keep the temp below 275. Above 275 can degrade the strength of 7075.

Laser thermometer is your friend.

omegared24 · Oct 30, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
Good tip, and thanks for the heads up on the proper "no go" temp.
Thinking a toaster oven at 225F would do the trick?

I used my wife hair dryer last weekend to install one. I'd start at a lower temp and then increase if needed. Sometimes the heat isn't needed. Just really depends.

Pinecone · Nov 1, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
Is it extra if I help LOL
I am wanting to learn, that is why I am building not buying.
I looked at classes, but there is a backlog?

I have watched when he did a couple for me.

And he explained each step.

The big thing is, to do one barrel, RIGHT, requires a LOT of tools, which cost a lot of money.

DEVE · Nov 3, 2021

Slackdaddy said:
I will be installing a barrel on a BCM M4 upper receiver,,
What is the most cost effective way to "retain" the receiver while torquing, and re-torquing the barrel nut?

Obviously I do not want to damage the receiver,, but I do not want to spend $120 on a receiver jig that is on back order.

Is there an effective way to hold the receiver without damaging it,, Without spending $100 plus dollars?

Thanks

I used these, torque to 80ft-lbs, and never damaged anything. They were like $40 when I got mine (have one for AR10, one for AR15)

I honestly think that a barrel vise block rod is best, but they cost a lot more. If you plan to build a lot they are totally worth it though. You could also resell it to recoup most of the cost.

Woodba · Nov 3, 2021

You can make it happen with a barrel wrench, and someone holding the gun for you.

teratos · Nov 3, 2021

Woodba said:
You can make it happen with a barrel wrench, and someone holding the gun for you.

You good at torqueing it to spec that way?

DutchV · Nov 3, 2021

Woodba said:
You can make it happen with a barrel wrench, and someone holding the gun for you.

This is a fine strategy, if you're building a wall-hanger that will never see live ammo.

Duckncover · Nov 3, 2021

I have had good success with this: turn the upper on its side, pic rail facing either towards you or away, and clamp it in a vice with wood between the vice and your upper on both sides. Vice it tight and torque away. I also have the jig if you want to pm me

clandestine · Nov 3, 2021

I don't even have words.

Bullfrog · Nov 3, 2021

clandestine said:
I don't even have words.

Gotta love it when someone chimes in without reading the thread and immediately tells you to do what people with verified experience have already told you not to do.

Installing "one" AR barrel?

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