hughmon
Ultimate Member
- Mar 5, 2008
- 1,630
Black Sharpie...
Not to worry, once you play with it enough, it'll have plenty more dings!
Jamie
Thanks, that I will give that a try.
Black Sharpie...
Not to worry, once you play with it enough, it'll have plenty more dings!
Jamie
i recommend that all ar-15 builders get a copy of two books. "The AR-15 complete owners guide" by Walt Kuleck, and if you can get a hold of the M-16 23 & P manual it even have specs in there for making your own 4 prong and 5 prong sight tools. I made a few with my dremel and the dremel router attachment. My tool has five prongs on one side for A1 sights and four prongs on the other for A2 sights.
For the standard front sight? Use a bullet. You only need ONE prong.
Did some digging today and here is what I found for a complete build that costs under $1,300.
-Bravo Company 16" Mid-length upper assembly, charging handle, BC BCG. Shipped to 20657 for $583.95
-Spike's Tactical ST-15 stripped lower (on sale right now), Spike's complete stock kit. Shipped to 20657 for $202.02
-Rock River Arms Lower Parts Kit with Ergo Grip, standard trigger. Estimated shipping is $100
-Yankee Hill Free Float Mid Length Rail with 1 rail cover. $155 shipped
-Timney AR-15 Competition 3lb Trigger. $194.95 before shipping
Now you just need an FFL, PMags, and ammo.
You will notice that the shipped price from Spike's includes the M4 stock kit as well....
Are the BC lower as good as their other stuff? It's a serious question, I've heard high accolades for BC uppers and BCGs, but nary a word about their lowers. Also, since an aftermarket trigger is on the list, what specific parts could be eliminated from the lower group if I were to build it piece by piece?
Lower parts kit.
OK, I guess you could leave out:
trigger (and trigger pin and trigger reset spring)
disconnector (and disconnector spring)
hammer (and hammer pin and hammer spring)
You would also not install the selector until the trigger/hammer get installed, as the selector interacts with the trigger assembly.
(bonus nerdiness follows)
The selector spring and detent are installed at the same time as the grip, so if your selector detent doesn't fall out through the selector switch hole (maker specs vary) you could install both the grip and those parts while you're waiting on your new hammer/trigger, but leave the selector out at that point until you get the new hammer and trigger. You can get the selector in after that by putting the selector to halfway between fire and safe and pushing it in from the left until it locks with the detent.
You may just want to wait and do it all when the trigger/hammer are there.
Bump for Apone to come back....
OK, I guess you could leave out:
trigger (and trigger pin and trigger reset spring)
disconnector (and disconnector spring)
hammer (and hammer pin and hammer spring)
You would also not install the selector until the trigger/hammer get installed, as the selector interacts with the trigger assembly.
(bonus nerdiness follows)
The selector spring and detent are installed at the same time as the grip, so if your selector detent doesn't fall out through the selector switch hole (maker specs vary) you could install both the grip and those parts while you're waiting on your new hammer/trigger, but leave the selector switch out at that point until you get the new hammer and trigger. You can get the selector in after that by putting the selector to halfway between fire and safe (assuming semi-auto) and pushing it in from the left until it locks with the detent.
You may just want to wait and do it all when the trigger/hammer are there.