Corrosive Ammo

240 towles · Sep 23, 2014

I also shoot black powder in my 37mms. It's not so hard to clean the aluminum barreled launchers, but I have a thumper with a steel barrel with previous pitting [prison use]. No matter how I clean it [hot water, windex, black powder cleaner, remoil, heavy scraping, etc], within two days, the inside of the barrel will have surface rust. The only way I have found to keep the barrel from rusting is to give it a light coat of baby powder once cleaned.

Melnic · Sep 23, 2014

The more pitted the barrel is already, the harder it is to clean without running hot water down the barrel. At least that's what I've found. If I have to run hot water down the barrel every time, I kind of get disenchanted to the whole thing. I do not run corrosive ammo as much as I did in the first year, but when I do/did, I would spray a mix of water/amonia (Walmart has pure amonia for a couple bucks in the cleaning dept) onto patches and get most of it out that way, then a dry patch or two and then rem oil. That I did at the range, then take it home. At home, I'd run amonia/water to get more crud out, depending on the barrel, I may run some of those thin walmart patches wrapped around a bronze brush wet with some hoppes 9. Then clean patches.

Some people use the term "mosin clean" refering to how a pitted surplus mosin barrel retains so much of the resedue that it can take a long time to patch clean.

My Finn, PU Mosin and one of my 91/30 barrels all are very frost/pit free. they clean up very quickly, often, only with the range cleaning. I have a couple that are so pitted, only way to clean them is to run 20 patches or the hot water method. I was thinking to make some sort of sling to hang my Mosin muzzle down over my slop sink to pour hot water through, I have not done it yet. Maybe even an attachment to connect to the spout of the slop sink so I can run the hot water direct into the barrel w/o getting all over the wood.

Abulg1972 · Sep 23, 2014

Bullfrog said:
Gotcha. In reading your post:

it seemed as if you were implying there was no point in using anything but water. (ie, why not be super cheap all the time?)

I like using the mix just in case because I know stuff happens when you don't expect it.

No, I was implying that it seems the consensus was to use either water/Ballistol or water alone - that there's not point in wasting money on windex when water will work just fine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mark75H · Sep 23, 2014

Lots of water; main thing is to clean it within 6 hours or so; preferably right away

If you miss a part or section, you will see red-brown residue forming a day or so later depending on the light and your vision

After the wet patches come clean, patches with your favorite oil or preservative

My gun looks like Combloc's or better

Machodoc · Sep 23, 2014

clandestine said:
http://www.scotts-gunsmithing.com/f-a-q/gunsmith-related-f-a-q/corrosive-ammunition-cleaning-tips/

My own writeup.

GREAT writeup. My only disagreement with it is part of this statement:

"If you are cheap you can use Windex to flush Corrosive Salts from a Firearm. Windex has high amounts of Water and Ammonia."

Windex hasn't had ammonia in it for several years. It used to have it, but now they advertise "Ammonia D", which isn't ammonia. Some of the cheaper, more generic, forms of window cleaner still have ammonia in them, if you don't feel like mixing your own ammonia with water.

clandestine · Sep 23, 2014

Machodoc said:
GREAT writeup. My only disagreement with it is part of this statement:

"If you are cheap you can use Windex to flush Corrosive Salts from a Firearm. Windex has high amounts of Water and Ammonia."

Windex hasn't had ammonia in it for several years. It used to have it, but now they advertise "Ammonia D", which isn't ammonia. Some of the cheaper, more generic, forms of window cleaner still have ammonia in them, if you don't feel like mixing your own ammonia with water.

I know about the ammonia d. Its alcohol. When I moved it from MDS to the website it explained that. I guess I didn't copy my work correctly.

Mark75H · Sep 23, 2014

It would actually be better, because the alcohol helps the water evaporate faster. Ammonia wouldn't do anything except help clear copper fouling.

Laddertowr · Sep 23, 2014

Thanks guys for all the info and links...I'd thought I did a decent job cleaning my 91/30 & T53 but I discovered what appeared to be rust and it made me think if I was cleaning my rifles correctly. As you see I'M just a Junior member but in locked in an older man's body with only 3 years of owning any guns under my belt. So I still have a lot to learn.

SWO Daddy · Sep 23, 2014

Use the original Hoppe's #9...it has ammonia in it for this reason. Don't over-think this stuff.

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