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Old April 14th, 2018, 09:59 PM #21
lazarus lazarus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outrider58 View Post
I've tried many different TD pins and I've decided these are the best out there. I've used them on my last three builds.

https://www.strikeindustries.com/sho...r-ul-eptp.html
Good to know Iíve been eyeballing those for a bit in a bid to shave another few fractions of an ounce (grams add up to ounces, ounces add up to pounds. Mixing metric and imperial leads to crashed mars probes).

To the OP...whatís wrong? Maybe I havenít tried enough uppers or Iíve jist had a lot of luck. All of my lowers and uppers I can push both pins out by hand without needing a bullet or tools. The front can be hard to remove if I unhinge the rear first, but easy if I either donít or can rest the gun in my lap to take out the pin (and take the stress off the pin while unhinging).

You want to see hard, try a GWACS CAV-15 lower the first few times. Maybe you could do it with a bullet, I havenít tried. Iíve had to use a punch AND a hammer the first few times to get the rear started. The polymer lower wears in over time so it can be removed with a bullet at least.
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Old April 15th, 2018, 01:31 PM #22
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I put these in my ARs now. They are true .25 and the lowers I use them on, all tighten up a tiny bit. Nothing like "wow this is a different rifle! " But slight less wiggle.

https://www.noveske.com/products/nov...down-pivot-pin
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Old April 15th, 2018, 01:33 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazarus View Post

To the OP...whatís wrong? Maybe I havenít tried enough uppers or Iíve jist had a lot of luck. All of my lowers and uppers I can push both pins out by hand without needing a bullet or tools. The front can be hard to remove if I unhinge the rear first, but easy if I either donít or can rest the gun in my lap to take out the pin (and take the stress off the pin while unhinging).
My experience as well for all my rifles. Never once has it been "hard" to take the pins out. My Stag was probably the tightest. But even those could be popped out by hand, just took a bit of effort.
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Old April 15th, 2018, 08:48 PM #24
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My last two builds done yesterday, had some issues with the takedown pins that required about 5 minutes with a file and sandpaper. When the detent pins would seat in either position, too much force was required to move them. There are small holes drilled into each end of the takedown pin's guide channel. The edges of those holes had burrs that were binding the detent pins and leaving visible marks.
Once I removed the burrs and reinstalled them, they worked perfectly. This problem was encountered on pins from two different manufacturers and sellers but were purchased about the same time. One kit was considerably nicer but the takedown pins looked identical. Perhaps a batch of takedown pins lacking in quality have gotten into the parts kits.
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Old April 16th, 2018, 08:23 PM #25
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I guess nothing is wrong, but just figured maybe there would be a system allowing for reliability with increased ease of disassembling
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Old April 16th, 2018, 08:25 PM #26
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I guess nothing is wrong, but just figured maybe there would be a system allowing for reliability with increased ease of disassembling
You are pressing from the off side first right? Sometimes it takes a jab with your knuckle to get things started.
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Old April 16th, 2018, 08:27 PM #27
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I rap them with my knife handle and that gets them out of the detent. After that it is no sweat.
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Old April 16th, 2018, 08:31 PM #28
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Old April 16th, 2018, 08:41 PM #29
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If it aint broke, don't fix it
If that were true, we'd never have velcro shoe laces.
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Old April 16th, 2018, 11:33 PM #30
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I round off the point on the detent. This makes it easier for the detent to jump out of the hole in the pin
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