Rust Removal

Chris said:

Thanks to everyone. Guess what I'll be doing this weekend. Chris

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Very Fine bronze wool is even better than 0000 steel wool. Rub light with steel wool.

FrankOceanXray said:

Thus is the finest way to remove rust.

SCIENCE!!!!

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Speaking of science since gun bluing is Fe3O4 and rust is Fe3O3 I would be very careful to do research and testing before using it on a blued gun I care about. But if you have old really rusty things it works great, I have a permanent setup in the shop with a dedicated battery charger.

From Fr. Frog's Page, that contains lots of really useful information: http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#top

Rust Removal

Brake Fluid
For rust removal, try automotive brake fluid. For light rust rub it on liberally with a patch, allow it to sit for a couple of minutes and wipe off. For heavily rusted items swab liberally with brake fluid and allow to sit over night. Burnish the finish with a wool pad or #0000 steel or bronze wool. Brake fluid may be damaging to some wood finishes so make sure you keep it on the metal.

Electrolysis Rust Removal
You can remove rust from metal using electrolysis, and it will not harm the bluing. The main advantage to this method is it gets all the rust in hard to reach places. You will need

A plastic container that will hold the part and electrolysis solution.
Steel rod. DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL AS THIS WILL PRODUCE HARMFUL BYPRODUCTS.
Water
Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (not baking soda. Washing soda can be found in your local grocery store with the laundry detergent. If you cannot find washing soda, pour some baking soda--sodium bicarbonate into a pan and heat it over low-medium heat. Water and carbon-dioxide will cook-off leaving washing soda-sodium carbonate. ) Another source is swimming pool "PH Increaser." which is labeled 100% sodium carbonate. [Thanks to Bob Head for this hint]
Battery charger or other high amperage power supply.

Cautions: Wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with this solution is very alkaline and can cause irritation. The electrolysis process breaks down water into its component parts, hydrogen and oxygen, which can be explosive. Work outside or in a very well ventilated area. Be sure your battery charger/power supply is unplugged before attaching or touching the leads.

In the container, mix 1 tablespoon of washing soda for each gallon of water to make up your solution. Be sure the washing soda is thoroughly dissolved. Place a steel rod either through the part to be cleaned (use o-rings to prevent the part from touching the rod), or numerous rods around the inside of your container. Connect these rods with wire; these will be the anode. You must be sure that the part to be cleaned is not touching the rod(s). Suspend the part in the solution with steel cable or wire so that it makes a good electrical contact with the part; this will become the cathode. Connect the negative lead (black) to the part being cleaned, connect the positive (red) lead to the rod(s), then plug in the charger. You will immediately begin to see bubbles; this is hydrogen and oxygen as the water breaks down. Allow the part to "cook" for 3-4 hours. The time is dependent on the size of the part, amount of rust, and the current of the power supply. After you remove the part, immediately clean and dry it off, then coat it with a good quality gun oil or rust preventative oil.

Thanks to Roy Seifert for this tip

Roy reports that he used this process on a 1911 frame that had a lot of surface rust all throughout the inside. He set the frame upside down on wooden blocks in the electrolysis solution and placed a rod with o-rings through the magazine well. He used a 1.5 amp trickle charger and left it for about 4 hours. When finished, the frame was completely free of rust, and the bluing was intact.

Bon Ami
For light rust on stuff including mold blocks, soak with Ed's Red and then make a paste of Ed's Red and Bon Ami (see the bore paste section) and rub until rust is removed. Clean with Ed's red or whatever cleaner you like and relube. For mold blocks, degrease before using.

Molasses(!)
Molasses can be used to remove rust. Start with a plastic container of appropriate size, stainless will also work, a piece of plastic or string with which to suspend the item to be cleaned. Mix one part molasses with ten parts ordinary water, and hang the item in the solution, derusting can take anywhere from a few hours to several days depending on the severity of rust, check occasionally. When the item is clean, rinse with water, dry and immediately apply a rust preventative as a light surface rust will soon form on the clean unprotected metal. When done you can simply dispose of the solution OR seal the container with a tight fitting lid, store it away from your house as the solution, although still effective, will develop an odor that will not endear you to those in your household.

Thanks to Robert Liegel for this tip

I did use the electrolysis method for gun work before. It is the best. It reaches nooks and crannies other methods don't. It is set it and forget it. It is simple, using items likely already available to you in your home (old wall charger putting out low amps, for instance). And while you have it set up, you may find other rusty things to toss in for a bath.

K31 said:

I haven't tried this yet but some people swear by it.

https://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

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These are excellent. Will not take off bluing. Also Chore Boy copper pads work well. Be sure not to get a copper coated brands as they will take off bluing.

K31 said:

I haven't tried this yet but some people swear by it.

https://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

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Another +1 for these pads (or something similar). We deal primarily in antiques and collectible firearms and use them quite a bit. They will scuff high-gloss blued finishes so be careful and use a light touch on those.

I bought the Big45 also. I will be using it this week and will try to get some photo's. BIL brought me another old .22 that he wants me to clean up. If this doesn't work, I will try the electrolysis method.

Have used this metal rescue on knives before, never a firearm though. I don't know how it would do with the blueing.

http://www.zoro.com/metal-rescue-ru...zPWNjQzxuqN5-y_jR9zOWxoCfofw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I picked up a 20GA recently and it had a pretty nasty streak of rust on the receiver. I've used steel wool before and it worked pretty well but figured I'd search for alternate methods before getting after it. Turns out I have a handful of actual copper pennies on hand and decided to give it a try.

It was pretty hard on Abe, but worked quite well on the receiver. It was only a first pass and will need some more TLC before I call it done. Good start, at least.

Boondock Saint said:

I picked up a 20GA recently and it had a pretty nasty streak of rust on the receiver. I've used steel wool before and it worked pretty well but figured I'd search for alternate methods before getting after it. Turns out I have a handful of actual copper pennies on hand and decided to give it a try.

It was pretty hard on Abe, but worked quite well on the receiver. It was only a first pass and will need some more TLC before I call it done. Good start, at least.

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CU. Great rust remover. Soft drawn #4 wire works well.