I got a lifetime supply of lead from a roof years ago and use a lyman melter with a dipper for MZ balls and conicals. Try midway or plumbing supply houses for lead and alloy its fun and cheap once you get the basic gear
Lee R.E.A.L. .. Try Them!
- Thread starter Deep Creek Rock
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For you guys who shoot traditional rifles, pure lead will work better than wheel weights. They are also easier to load as getting the last ring into the muzzle with a short starter can be a bitch with wheel weights were as pure lead is soft and easy. Pure lead also fills the bore at reduced pressures that you get with 60-80 grain loads used with the traditional rifles and gives better accuracy.
Never could develop a decent load chain with any sort of conical for my 45 t/c, however its plenty accurate with pyrodex "p" and pure lead swaged RB, even with 1/48 twist. Pure lead is they key to any sort of decent fine accuracy in a ML for me.
plumberone
Active Member
Bullet casting
First time casting bullets today. Used the Lee R.E.A.L. .50 Cal. 250 grain mould.
I used lead salvaged from old plumbing pipes.
Ended up with 69 nice looking bullets. Had some that were tossed back in the lead pot for future casting.
Pic is some lead bullets next to some 245 grain Powerbelts.
First time casting bullets today. Used the Lee R.E.A.L. .50 Cal. 250 grain mould.
I used lead salvaged from old plumbing pipes.
Ended up with 69 nice looking bullets. Had some that were tossed back in the lead pot for future casting.
Pic is some lead bullets next to some 245 grain Powerbelts.
Attachments
They look good and lead pipes are plenty soft. Don't for get to put a dry patch or dry felt wad between the bullet and powder to keep the lube from migrating into the powder. I use Crisco for bench shooting and T/C 1000 green for hunting. During hunting season, you can leave the T/C lubed load in until you shoot it. Crisco will go rancid eventually so I only use it during practice.
Luck.
Luck.
plumberone
Active Member
John, thanks for the help.
What twist do these shoot best with?
What twist do these shoot best with?
It really has to do with the individual gun and how much powder you use. I have a .45 1 in 66 Kentucky rifle that shoots them well up to sixty grains of powder yet I have a .50 1 in 48 T/C Hawken that will only shoot the short bullets. The REAL bullet in the Kentucky rifle with 50gns of 3F powder used to give me cloverleafs at 50 yards when I could see the front sight. It was great for small game.
I also have a .54 1 in 48 T/C Hawken that will shoot the REAL bullet and give 1 inch groups at 50 yards up to 120 grains of powder.
They really have their own personalities.
For you guys who shoot them with 100 - 150 gn powder charges, I use a wash of Lee ALOX after I make the bullets and then I apply T/C bore butter on them when shooting. The reason for this is that I have found that they will lead the bore at higher velocities and the ALOX keeps this down.
Resurrecting this thread. to see if there is any more new information to share.
Here is a smaller more recent thread:
https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=215934
I'm hoping to spend more time muzzleloading in the spring and hoping this might allow me to simplify the loading process at the range and not sacrifice accuracy.
I have some Hornady Conicals but never really looked much at how the accuracy was cause I was shooting them offhand.
Here is a smaller more recent thread:
https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=215934
I'm hoping to spend more time muzzleloading in the spring and hoping this might allow me to simplify the loading process at the range and not sacrifice accuracy.
I have some Hornady Conicals but never really looked much at how the accuracy was cause I was shooting them offhand.
Archeryrob
Undecided on a great many things
I had trouble trying to use Emmerts Lube and it was fouling my hawken like I have never seen. I didn't get three shots off before the buildup clogged my gun.
Then hunting season was close and i quit. I have made lubed felt wads in 50 cal and going to lube some with deer/BW or deer/oil lube and try it again this spring.
Then hunting season was close and i quit. I have made lubed felt wads in 50 cal and going to lube some with deer/BW or deer/oil lube and try it again this spring.
I don't lube my felt wads, I shoot them dry. I just wipe on a coating of my own special wax mix on the REAL bullet and they work fine. The only reason I tried ALOX is that I was going to shoot them with 120 grains of powder and was concerned about leading. My wax/oil mix is Beeswax, Olive Oil and Mineral oil from a recipe I found on line. I adjust the Beeswax for the texture that I want. For patches, I make it softer and pour it into old .22 pellet tins. Then I just wipe the patch across a couple of times and I'm set to go.
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