Yoshi
Invictus
Anyone running a mount for their red dot? Do you like it?
Red dot mount vs milling
- Thread starter Yoshi
- Start date
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deerassassin22
Active Member
I do on my Glock 17 and my CZ P-09 ones and MOS and the other a venom
benton0311
Active Member
- Feb 26, 2011
- 358
I put a Burris Fastfire II on my 1911 to clear my suppressor since I'm using it more or less as a dedicated suppressor host. The thinking at the time was that it cost the same as having custom tall sights installed. I used the rear sight dovetail mount and I'd have to say it takes a fair amount of retraining in order to get the sight lined up with any speed because of how high it sits off of the slide.
For me at least, I discovered that I reference the top of the slide and front sight post when drawing and presenting so that the sights automatically come into view when the pistol is pushed forward. With the red dot sight not being flush with the slide and obscuring it's view, I found it takes a lot more time to get the sight into the correct viewing plane. A flush mount would probably solve this although, aside from cost, might not work for me since I still need the height to clear the can. Once everything is lined up then all is well but it takes more time at first.
I noticed that others had the same issue when I let them shoot it: "Ok where is the dot, there's supposed to be a dot, right? Is it turned off? I think I saw it. Ok, there it is." That was with more experienced instructors during our lunch break while training Marines so it wasn't for lack of experience. The offset due to the height causes some issues, too. I had it zeroed for 15 yards I think but shooting a dueling tree at maybe 7 yards it was way low.
So a dovetail mount can work, and may need to be mounted that way out of necessity, but expect a fair amount of retraining in order to get on target quickly and figure out your offset.
For me at least, I discovered that I reference the top of the slide and front sight post when drawing and presenting so that the sights automatically come into view when the pistol is pushed forward. With the red dot sight not being flush with the slide and obscuring it's view, I found it takes a lot more time to get the sight into the correct viewing plane. A flush mount would probably solve this although, aside from cost, might not work for me since I still need the height to clear the can. Once everything is lined up then all is well but it takes more time at first.
I noticed that others had the same issue when I let them shoot it: "Ok where is the dot, there's supposed to be a dot, right? Is it turned off? I think I saw it. Ok, there it is." That was with more experienced instructors during our lunch break while training Marines so it wasn't for lack of experience. The offset due to the height causes some issues, too. I had it zeroed for 15 yards I think but shooting a dueling tree at maybe 7 yards it was way low.
So a dovetail mount can work, and may need to be mounted that way out of necessity, but expect a fair amount of retraining in order to get on target quickly and figure out your offset.
Last edited:
Huge topic. You have four options that I can think of:
1. New slide pre-milled.
2. Mill existing slide.
3. Dovetail mount
4. Accessory rail (or frame-drilled) mount.
If you are building a new pistol, #1 is the way to go if you want to use an RMR. I would flat-out never build a Glock now that didn't have an RMR-cut slide - it's a $10 difference in price, plus whatever you spend on a slide cover (and if that's stopping you from a Brownells slide, PM me and we'll work it out).
If you have an existing pistol, it's a harder choice. Buying a new slide may not be an option, or it may be more cost-effective to mill rather than buy a new slide and sell the old. Dovetail and accessory rail mounts are good ways to add a dot without permanent alterations, but tend to put the optic high and may preclude use of any irons (unless you have the RBU or Suarez L-Mount or some thing like those). They can also be rather expensive, like the Geissele 6 second mount.
1. New slide pre-milled.
2. Mill existing slide.
3. Dovetail mount
4. Accessory rail (or frame-drilled) mount.
If you are building a new pistol, #1 is the way to go if you want to use an RMR. I would flat-out never build a Glock now that didn't have an RMR-cut slide - it's a $10 difference in price, plus whatever you spend on a slide cover (and if that's stopping you from a Brownells slide, PM me and we'll work it out).
If you have an existing pistol, it's a harder choice. Buying a new slide may not be an option, or it may be more cost-effective to mill rather than buy a new slide and sell the old. Dovetail and accessory rail mounts are good ways to add a dot without permanent alterations, but tend to put the optic high and may preclude use of any irons (unless you have the RBU or Suarez L-Mount or some thing like those). They can also be rather expensive, like the Geissele 6 second mount.
BigSteve57
Ultimate Member
- Feb 14, 2011
- 3,245
I have a pair of pistols that have traditional irons and a red dot. As the pistols are identical, I can get a one to one comparison.
I had the rear irons on one modified to have white dots and had a mount for a Trijicon RMR made for the other. So far, the irons are "faster" but I'm way more accurate with the red dot. Incidentally the pistol with the red dot is also outfitted with a small laser. The height doesn't seem to be an issue with the red dot as the slide was already milled somewhat for the match sights which it replaced.
I will say that that to see the red dot you have to point the pistol lower than is intuitive. Pretty much everyone who has held the pistols can't see the red dot right away. I am getting better at compensating for this and hopefully with practice it will become second nature and seeing the red dot will be just as "fast" as seeing the traditional irons.
The red dot also has advantages in dark settings such as when things go bump in the night.
REF:
Custom mods to SIG P220 Match Stainless Elite
https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=221261
I had the rear irons on one modified to have white dots and had a mount for a Trijicon RMR made for the other. So far, the irons are "faster" but I'm way more accurate with the red dot. Incidentally the pistol with the red dot is also outfitted with a small laser. The height doesn't seem to be an issue with the red dot as the slide was already milled somewhat for the match sights which it replaced.
I will say that that to see the red dot you have to point the pistol lower than is intuitive. Pretty much everyone who has held the pistols can't see the red dot right away. I am getting better at compensating for this and hopefully with practice it will become second nature and seeing the red dot will be just as "fast" as seeing the traditional irons.
The red dot also has advantages in dark settings such as when things go bump in the night.
REF:
Custom mods to SIG P220 Match Stainless Elite
https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=221261
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
If you have it milled use a reputable place. I can't tell you how many slides I have seen where so called gunsmith hacks ruined slides with shit work.
Yeah, I imagine you could probably seriously screw up a slide's integrity if you cut too just a bit too deep... and the way you mount on RMRs, there's a lot of incentive to cut deep.
jimbobborg
Oddball caliber fan
I used a mount on my Ruger MK II. Yes, it took getting used to. When I got to the point where it was Right There when I brought it up, I ended up selling it. Once you adjust and get used to the red dot that much higher than iron sights, it's really fast getting on target. Take a look at Open shooter times versus Limited shooter times in USPSA. I see VERY few top level Open shooters using milled slides, but that may be changing. Milled versus mounts, the milled is a lot harder on the sight versus using a mount.
Fox123
Ultimate Member
For the price of mounts just send it to mkparms. It’s only $85 on your existing slide.
https://www.mkparmsusa.com/oem-slides.html
https://www.mkparmsusa.com/oem-slides.html
holesonpaper
Active Member
I have two p226's that both run red dots. The first one I did I bought an exchange kit (new slide) and sent to L&M Precision (NC) and what he did was fantastic. He milled the slide for a RMR and it's a fantastic combo. The other p226 was a OOTB one from Sig with a Romeo. By far the RMR setup is the nicer of the two but it's really not worth the difference in cost.
Red dots on a handgun take a little getting use to. Initially I found my presentation slower (hunting for the dot) as you need to re-learn your presentation. One you get use to - transitions with a red dot are faster for multiple reasons.
One thing I've found that not many folks speak of - but with the blow back, they tend to fog up after so many rounds. It's no big deal but all things considered, red dots on handguns (to me) and not as revolutionary as they are on rifles...
Also - one last comment. If you want a red dot on a pistol and have the funds - either buy a slide that supports or have it milled. I've seen some of the non-milled options and they're all second class.
Red dots on a handgun take a little getting use to. Initially I found my presentation slower (hunting for the dot) as you need to re-learn your presentation. One you get use to - transitions with a red dot are faster for multiple reasons.
One thing I've found that not many folks speak of - but with the blow back, they tend to fog up after so many rounds. It's no big deal but all things considered, red dots on handguns (to me) and not as revolutionary as they are on rifles...
Also - one last comment. If you want a red dot on a pistol and have the funds - either buy a slide that supports or have it milled. I've seen some of the non-milled options and they're all second class.
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