AR-10 build questions and inspiration

Art3 · Mar 9, 2019

clandestine said:
Just the JP bolt my friend. Dont get the JP Carrier.

JP Bolt will work with the Aero Carrier. If the Aero Carrier is Nitrided is the likely it will fail the Gas Key Gauge that you and Katie used in the class.

Get a chrome lined Aero Carrier if you can. They are usually fine.

Right now the only in stock Aero options are Nickel Boron (which I know we don't like) and phospate. I think I remember you saying phosphate was good, so I was leaning towards that. They have a nitride offering, but it is out of stock. I really don't care what color it is, and I don't think I need top of the line tacticool.

What do you think of the on sale Brownells one that was mentioned?

clandestine · Mar 9, 2019

Art3 said:
Right now the only in stock Aero options are Nickel Boron (which I know we don't like) and phospate. I think I remember you saying phosphate was good, so I was leaning towards that. They have a nitride offering, but it is out of stock. I really don't care what color it is, and I don't think I need top of the line tacticool.

What do you think of the on sale Brownells one that was mentioned?

The phosphate carrier should be good to go.

He brownells units are hit/miss.

Art3 · Mar 9, 2019

clandestine said:
The phosphate carrier should be good to go.

He brownells units are hit/miss.

Thank you, sir :thumbsup:

MattTheGunslinger · Mar 11, 2019

Glad this thread popped up! I was just about to purchase the complete Aero BCG in phosphate. maybe not now. Are Faxon or Ballistic Advantage BCGs any good?

Steve_Zissou · Mar 25, 2019

Well, I finished my .308 carbine build last week. This was my first AR, and after getting the gas system dialed in and putting 200 rounds through it this Saturday, all I can say is that I effin love this thing.

Here's the build list for anyone who cares:
Aero M5 upper/lower
Aero M5 LPK w/ milspec trigger for now
Ballistic Advantage Modern series 14.5" carbine-length barrel
Surefire SOCOM muzzle brake, pinned and welded w/ a Warden compensator.
SLR Rifleworks Sentry 7 adjustable gas block
Toolcraft nitride BCG
Troy Industries Tomahawk .308 stock+buffer
Troy Industries 308 HP M-Lok rail in carbon fiber
Basic bitch Magpul mbus until I acquire an EOTech HHS for it.

Now, on to my next build on my other M5 lower, which will probably end up being some sort of rough SR 25/M110 clone.

ted76 · Apr 4, 2019

clandestine said:
Been seeing lots of Aero and Brownells .308 Bolts read short on headspace lately. Bad Gas Keys too.

Be careful.

I just got this Brownells AR 10 Black Nitride BCG, I ordered it before I found this thread.
After taking your ARmorers class last year, the Gas Key screws don't look like they are staked well enough.
What do you think Chad? Should I replace them with new screws or just restake them?
The gas key tube seems to be a little over sized compared to my AR 15 ones.

This is my first AR 10 build, I'm using the following parts;
Aero Precision M5 upper & lower
ELD Performance .308 18" SOCOM profile SS barrel
Brownells 308BAR Black Nitride Finish
JE Machine LR 308 15" Free-float M-LOK Handguard
Davidson Defense SS muzzle brake
DPMS lower parts set
Buffer tube & Buttstock TBD

TheGunnyRet · May 20, 2019

14.5” Ballistic Advantage 1/10 twist Govt profile Barrel.
> 12” Aero Precision M5 Enhanced Handguard
> VG6 muzzle break
> Adjustable Gas Block
> Ballistic Advantage BA10 Receiver set.
> Drop in Straight Velocity Trigger 5 lbs
> Armspec Red Safety and Mag release.
> Troy Tomahawk 308 but stock with special buffer
> Tyrant Handgrip.
> Cerakoted in Steel Grey.

Just ordered the scope a Primary Arms 308 ACSS 1x6-24 Gen III.
The scope in the picture is my Redfield.

clandestine · May 20, 2019

ted76 said:
I just got this Brownells AR 10 Black Nitride BCG, I ordered it before I found this thread.
After taking your ARmorers class last year, the Gas Key screws don't look like they are staked well enough.
What do you think Chad? Should I replace them with new screws or just restake them?
The gas key tube seems to be a little over sized compared to my AR 15 ones.

This is my first AR 10 build, I'm using the following parts;
Aero Precision M5 upper & lower
ELD Performance .308 18" SOCOM profile SS barrel
Brownells 308BAR Black Nitride Finish
JE Machine LR 308 15" Free-float M-LOK Handguard
Davidson Defense SS muzzle brake
DPMS lower parts set
Buffer tube & Buttstock TBD

I just saw this. My apologies for not responding sooner.

I would gage the gas key with a .182 pin Gage. If it takes that Gage then replace the Gas Key and screws.

ajviera · May 21, 2019

JP side charging upper & lower
JP Enterprise LMOS with HP bolt W QPQ finish
JP 17.25" Handguard
JP Enterprise Silent Captive Spring
Geissele Hi-Speed National Match Rifle Trigger
Ergo Deluxe Grip
Magpul PRS stock
DRACOS 22" Straightjacket barrel
Area-419 self timing muzzle break
JP 34mm Mount
Nightforce ATACR 5-25X56

outrider58 · May 21, 2019

Art, only thing I can add is consider weight. AR10s can get hefty in a hurry. I know you are strong like bull and all but...

ted76 · May 24, 2019

clandestine said:
I just saw this. My apologies for not responding sooner.

I would gage the gas key with a .182 pin Gage. If it takes that Gage then replace the Gas Key and screws.

Thanks'

Art3 · May 24, 2019

outrider58 said:
Art, only thing I can add is consider weight. AR10s can get hefty in a hurry. I know you are strong like bull and all but...

Some of these do indeed appear to demand a bipod (maybe with wheels), don't they? :innocent0

. But, hey, I can save a lot of weight because it doesn't have to be Hbar, right

I absolutely appreciate all the ideas. From the beginning, I really didn't know what I wanted. While all these offerings look cool in their own rights, I just haven't seen anything that makes me lustfully whisper, "I want that." :shrug:

It's probably for the best right now. After paying car insurance, a new air conditioner and a few other bills, (and an unexpected gun or two :innocent0

), my gun budget has gone so far into the red that...well...

I just can't... :sad20:

outrider58 · May 24, 2019

Art3 said:
Some of these do indeed appear to demand a bipod (maybe with wheels), don't they? . But, hey, I can save a lot of weight because it doesn't have to be Hbar, right

I absolutely appreciate all the ideas. From the beginning, I really didn't know what I wanted. While all these offerings look cool in their own rights, I just haven't seen anything that makes me lustfully whisper, "I want that."

It's probably for the best right now. After paying car insurance, a new air conditioner and a few other bills, (and an unexpected gun or two), my gun budget has gone so far into the red that...well... I just can't...

Lol. Probably the same reason I haven't built one for my self yet.

Let's see...an AR that weighs twice what a normal AR weighs...

Just can't bring myself to do it.

Enjoy!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

DavidA · May 24, 2019

I thought the same thing for years. Then I built an AR10 20” standard weight barrel. . Black hole weaponry barrel. It shoots bug holes at 100 yds with m80 ball. So I built another one this time Bull barrel same affect. I have loaded up to as high as 225 gr bullets. Yes it is a little heavy. But if you are going long or you want a rifle with some heavy knock down power. It is awesome. Liked it so much I built a AR10 in 260 Rem light weight 22” barrel. I have 5 AR15’s three in 223 16”, 18” , 20”. And then two in 6.5 Grendel. One 20” and one 24” . I love all of them they each fill a different narrative. I would not want. 24” barreled AR 10 or 15 for a defensive clearing weapon. I would not want 16” AR15 to shoot a 1,000 yds target or take down a Black near. So define what you ultimately want the rifle to do and then build that purpose built rifle. Just my 2 cents

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

qorban88 · Jun 1, 2019

clandestine said:
I just saw this. My apologies for not responding sooner.

I would gage the gas key with a .182 pin Gage. If it takes that Gage then replace the Gas Key and screws.

I have two Brownells BCG's for my AR-10s and they both have double feed issues with the fired case not fully leaving the receiver. I've mitigated this with and adjustable gas block, heavy buffer, new extractor and a flat wire spring but still happens.

I don't have a pin gage but used calipers and it measures .181. Should I be concerned? Would this explain my ejection issues?

Also been considering Toolcraft's double ejector BCG? https://www.armorally.com/shop/toolcraft-ar10-308-double-ejector-bcg/?v=7516fd43adaa

smdub · Jun 1, 2019

Will the bolt lock back after the last round? Load just one. Sounds like it may be short stroking since odds are you don't have 2 bad ejectors (but anything it possible.) Could be you used the wrong buffer (do you have the special short 308 buffer if using an AR15 carbine buffer tube?) Or not enough gas. More info on the build would help.

qorban88 · Jun 1, 2019

It does lock back on the last round and I do have the correct buffer and A5 tube.

One rifle has a 16" barrel and one has a 20", both have rifle length gas systems. I mainly shoot suppressed.

It's basically doing this, but doesn't always flip completely around.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56nzgN8SBbI

smdub · Jun 1, 2019

Wow, the video appears to have super strong ejector springs. Cartridge is flipping around before the bolt gets back. I went and compared my Bownell's bolts to my Sig 716 and Mega ones. The Bownell's have a slightly stronger spring. Don't have my Aero bolt handy to test but it works great (made my same people who make the Brownells.) Haven't shot the Bownell ones yet as they are both going into wildcats that I'm not done machining.
FWIW, calipers inside measurement are usually off if you zero them on the OD jaws. The jaws aren't ground curved and will measure small on small holes too. Both my nitride Brownell bolt's gas keys measure in spec. Sounds like you are fine there.

DavidA · Jun 1, 2019

From the looks of the video the ejector spring is so tight it is flipping the spent casing with so much rotational force that the casing is hitting the deflector with the cartridge already past 180 degrees, which causes the case the ping back into the chamber. To me a softer ejection spring would help the issue which would slow rotational speed and allow the. Spent case to to hit the deflector at 100 degrees which would then deflect the case away. I did do this once on an AR 15. It a little of ejection spring and it worked fine. Also on an AR10 308 I did have ejection issues randomly and it seemed to be jetting the deflector awful hard I place a pice of double back tape Velcro loop tape and that was the end of that. Just my 2 cents

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

outrider58 · Jun 2, 2019

qorban88 said:
It does lock back on the last round and I do have the correct buffer and A5 tube.

One rifle has a 16" barrel and one has a 20", both have rifle length gas systems. I mainly shoot suppressed.

It's basically doing this, but doesn't always flip completely around.

Looks over gassed to me.

Is it worse when shooting suppressed?

Have you tried shutting the gas off completely, then opening it one click at a time after each shot?

Gotta find a way to slow that bolt down some.

AR-10 build questions and inspiration

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

Eqinsu Ocha

AR-15 Savant

Eqinsu Ocha

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Attachments

Ultimate Member

Attachments

Ultimate Member

Attachments

AR-15 Savant

Active Member

Attachments

Eats Bacon Raw

Ultimate Member

Eqinsu Ocha

Eats Bacon Raw

The Master of Disaster

Active Member

Ultimate Member

Active Member

Ultimate Member

The Master of Disaster

Eats Bacon Raw

Users who are viewing this thread

Log in

Forum statistics