MidWest Industries rail install question

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • engineerbrian

    JMB fan club
    Sep 3, 2010
    10,149
    Fredneck
    I recently picked up a MWI Gen 3 SSK Free Float Hand guard from Brownells and hit a road block.

    I didn't realize that this hand guard is not compatible with billet uppers (it wasn't listed in Brownells description) and that the torquing plate (anti rotation device?) is the piece that won't work on billet uppers. Pictures below.

    I really don't want to deal with returning the hand guard, and after watching an install video on YouTube, this hand guard gets glued and screwed in place, so it makes me wonder if the torquing plate is really needed or can it be skipped?

    Thoughts?
     

    Attachments

    • IMG_2916.jpg
      IMG_2916.jpg
      64.6 KB · Views: 265
    • IMG_2917.jpg
      IMG_2917.jpg
      82.9 KB · Views: 261

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    The plate can be fit the Billet uppers it has to be filed open. Slowly and evenly. Is calipers and keep it even.

    If you don't want to file you can remove the tabs but you do have to use the lower portion of the plate because it prevents the clamshell from over tightening.
     

    jrumann59

    DILLIGAF
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 17, 2011
    14,024
    Seems many of the self aligning have that issue when I put my diamond head on my 300blk build I had to work the tabs a little just to get some play on my Black Rain upper.
     

    3paul10

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 6, 2012
    4,895
    Western Maryland
    I am not a fan of clamp on rails. I haven't used the later style of MI rail with the plate....I installed an older one without the plate....and it slid right off, no more.clamp ons for me...
     

    engineerbrian

    JMB fan club
    Sep 3, 2010
    10,149
    Fredneck
    The plate can be fit the Billet uppers it has to be filed open. Slowly and evenly. Is calipers and keep it even.

    If you don't want to file you can remove the tabs but you do have to use the lower portion of the plate because it prevents the clamshell from over tightening.

    Great info, especially about over tightening, thanks! I'll break out the files

    Seems many of the self aligning have that issue when I put my diamond head on my 300blk build I had to work the tabs a little just to get some play on my Black Rain upper.

    :thumbsup:

    I am not a fan of clamp on rails. I haven't used the later style of MI rail with the plate....I installed an older one without the plate....and it slid right off, no more.clamp ons for me...

    Yeah, i was wondering about that too, i read a lot of good reviews on line, so we will see
     

    gmharle

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 29, 2015
    829
    Millers, MD
    I recently picked up a MWI Gen 3 SSK Free Float Hand guard from Brownells and hit a road block.

    I didn't realize that this hand guard is not compatible with billet uppers (it wasn't listed in Brownells description) and that the torquing plate (anti rotation device?) is the piece that won't work on billet uppers. Pictures below.

    I really don't want to deal with returning the hand guard, and after watching an install video on YouTube, this hand guard gets glued and screwed in place, so it makes me wonder if the torquing plate is really needed or can it be skipped?

    Thoughts?

    I just went through the same thing yesterday. I opted to remove a little material on the upper so that the torque plate fit. I very carefully used a Dremel and then finished with some high temp black paint.

    IMG_2574.jpg

    IMG_2575.jpg
     

    parttimer

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 10, 2013
    1,324
    Calvert
    I would go with removing metal from the torque plate. It can be replaced for less than $10 if it gets boogered up or you want to change the rail to another gun. If you mess with the receiver that is much harder to fix. Chad put one of these rails on the billit upper he assembled for me a few months ago so he is speaking from experience.
     

    engineerbrian

    JMB fan club
    Sep 3, 2010
    10,149
    Fredneck
    I would go with removing metal from the torque plate. It can be replaced for less than $10 if it gets boogered up or you want to change the rail to another gun. If you mess with the receiver that is much harder to fix. Chad put one of these rails on the billit upper he assembled for me a few months ago so he is speaking from experience.

    I agree. I'm all about messing up a $10 piece of metal instead of my Engage upper :D
     

    parttimer

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 10, 2013
    1,324
    Calvert
    Mine is an Engage set also. FYI mag pul bad levers will not fit that lower if you were thinking of installing one. The Phase 5 setup will fit. I will try to post a pic of mine today.
     

    jrumann59

    DILLIGAF
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 17, 2011
    14,024
    Mine is an Engage set also. FYI mag pul bad levers will not fit that lower if you were thinking of installing one. The Phase 5 setup will fit. I will try to post a pic of mine today.


    Phase 5 BAD lever is nice, probably one of the few things I think Mag-pul needs to go back to the drawing board on.
     

    gmharle

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 29, 2015
    829
    Millers, MD
    I would go with removing metal from the torque plate. It can be replaced for less than $10 if it gets boogered up or you want to change the rail to another gun. If you mess with the receiver that is much harder to fix. Chad put one of these rails on the billit upper he assembled for me a few months ago so he is speaking from experience.

    I agree that it is better to work on the cheaper torque plate, but in my case I would have had to completely remove the ears of the torque plate to make it work with the YHM upper. It would not have engaged the upper at all and would not have been able to do the job it was designed to do which is keep the rail from twisting.

    I have taken the SOTAR armorers class and was in now way trying to contradict what Chad was suggesting. Since I just did this yesterday I was sharing my experience and approach on what worked for me.
     

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,406
    Messages
    7,280,471
    Members
    33,450
    Latest member
    angel45z

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom