Finishing a flintlock stock/metal

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  • Balzer94

    Active Member
    Feb 27, 2011
    769
    About 7 years ago my dad had purchased a kit online for a flintlock rifle. I believe it is a Pennsylvania long rifle. He and I had worked on it on and off for a few years. He and I were able to get the rifle firing.

    He ended up passing away back in September and I have been trying really hard to complete the rifle. So I have finished pretty much all of the inletting. I’m not at the finishing stages. I just need to sand, stain, and seal the stock along with finishing all of the metal.

    So what are your techniques for sanding and sealing? Also what stain should I get? I know my dad would have preferred a darker stain. The stock is a curly maple. I know he spent a fair amount extra for a higher quality stock.
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    The furniture is all brass. There are a few spots where the would was damaged over the years. The one of biggest concern is one of the holes where the barrel is pinned to the stock. The pin must not have lined up right and punched a chunk out of the stock. I had heard of people mixing the sanded wood with epoxy and filling it in so it stains the same color. Would that really work or would it just be glaringly obvious?
    ea3ce18aace6250ef7ae4b67848ddac2.png


    He had also mentioned of a chemical compound that could be put on the barrel and the lock and then place in the oven and it would make the metal look older.

    I am just. trying to make the rifle what he would’ve wanted it to be


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    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,728
    Socialist State of Maryland
    I would add these to the stock. https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/710/1/IN-ESC-1-B

    They will give support the stock where it is pinned and also cover up your ding. The way they work is you drill the hole for the pin and then two small holes for tacks or screws. Since your rifle already has a brass patch box, these won't take away from the looks. TOTW has various styles, I just used this one as a pointer.
     

    CombatAK

    Hooligan #12
    Sep 1, 2015
    1,156
    Cresaptown
    He had also mentioned of a chemical compound that could be put on the barrel and the lock and then place in the oven and it would make the metal look older.

    I am just. trying to make the rifle what he would’ve wanted it to be


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Plum brown. Like John said, TOW has EVERYTHING you would need to finish that rifle. :thumbsup:
     

    Balzer94

    Active Member
    Feb 27, 2011
    769
    I appreciate it guys. I am just trying to make this rifle everything he wanted it to be. I am glad he and I got to get it firing and actually shot it before he passed away.
     

    j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    That's a terrific project you will be proud to finish! Your Dad will smile at you from Heaven!! :thumbsup:

    There are many ways to repair the chip in the tenon pin area. I always save sanding and filing waste from in-letting and fitting parts on the same stock in case I need to fill a spot. Depending on the need I mix it with either epoxy resin or a good white wood glue to make a filler paste. You could also cut out the area, plug it with a piece of maple that matches the grain and re-drill the pin hole. Either of those (or any other) methods aren't going to be invisible. But the rifle will be viewed as a whole when it's completed - warts and all.

    I've hand sanded builds like this using a rubber block and just my fingers and paper for contours. It's a lot more work, but worth it to me. Start with coarser grits to get the fit, lines and contours like you want them and then move to progressively finer grits to finish. When you're final fitting the metal to the stock, keep checking the fit. Sand a little, put the parts together. Sand more. Check again and repeat. Don't be afraid to scratch the metal a little in the process. You can polish it when all the fitting is done.

    Final color and finish is a matter of preference. To me, curly maple screams very light and transparent to bring out the grain. If it was me? I wouldn't stain the wood and go straight to a BLO scrubbed finish. If your Dad wanted something darker, Min-Wax red oak or even mahogany stains would work. I used a stain called "gunstock" for a recent kit build on an inexpensive Traditions Kentucky Rifle. (Pic below).

    No matter the color, my choice for final finish for yours would be BLO. Getting a good coating takes time and patience, but for a project like that - that's what I'd do.

    Good luck. We'd love to see pics of your progress!

    :thumbsup:
     

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    Balzer94

    Active Member
    Feb 27, 2011
    769
    Make it an heirloom that can be passed down through the Generations. Put your dad's name and DOB and DOD in the barrel channel. :thumbsup:

    I was actually thinking of having the brass plate opposite of the lock engraved with that. This will definitely be something I pass down.
     

    Balzer94

    Active Member
    Feb 27, 2011
    769
    That's a terrific project you will be proud to finish! Your Dad will smile at you from Heaven!! :thumbsup:

    There are many ways to repair the chip in the tenon pin area. I always save sanding and filing waste from in-letting and fitting parts on the same stock in case I need to fill a spot. Depending on the need I mix it with either epoxy resin or a good white wood glue to make a filler paste. You could also cut out the area, plug it with a piece of maple that matches the grain and re-drill the pin hole. Either of those (or any other) methods aren't going to be invisible. But the rifle will be viewed as a whole when it's completed - warts and all.

    I've hand sanded builds like this using a rubber block and just my fingers and paper for contours. It's a lot more work, but worth it to me. Start with coarser grits to get the fit, lines and contours like you want them and then move to progressively finer grits to finish. When you're final fitting the metal to the stock, keep checking the fit. Sand a little, put the parts together. Sand more. Check again and repeat. Don't be afraid to scratch the metal a little in the process. You can polish it when all the fitting is done.

    Final color and finish is a matter of preference. To me, curly maple screams very light and transparent to bring out the grain. If it was me? I wouldn't stain the wood and go straight to a BLO scrubbed finish. If your Dad wanted something darker, Min-Wax red oak or even mahogany stains would work. I used a stain called "gunstock" for a recent kit build on an inexpensive Traditions Kentucky Rifle. (Pic below).

    No matter the color, my choice for final finish for yours would be BLO. Getting a good coating takes time and patience, but for a project like that - that's what I'd do.

    Good luck. We'd love to see pics of your progress!

    :thumbsup:

    How fine of a grit for sand paper would you go? I do like the boiled linseed oil idea. he used that on his M1 Garand stock. I will get some and test it an in area and see how the untrained wood looks.
     

    j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    How fine of a grit for sand paper would you go? I do like the boiled linseed oil idea. he used that on his M1 Garand stock. I will get some and test it an in area and see how the untrained wood looks.

    How fine the sanding grit you need will depend on the project and area. 50 to 60 grit will take off a lot of material quickly. Progressively moving to finer grits like 100, 220 and even finer as you go. It's a "feel". As you sand you'll know when you need to go to finer grits.

    BLO test? :nono: BLO is a final oiled finish. You don't want it on your raw stock till it's time. When applied as a finish BLO will soak into the wood and give you a transparent semi gloss finish with an amber tint.

    It's interesting you mention your dad used BLO on his Garand. I cleaned and lubed one today and added another coat. He knew what was best. Don't mess with success!

    :thumbsup:
     

    Balzer94

    Active Member
    Feb 27, 2011
    769
    How fine the sanding grit you need will depend on the project and area. 50 to 60 grit will take off a lot of material quickly. Progressively moving to finer grits like 100, 220 and even finer as you go. It's a "feel". As you sand you'll know when you need to go to finer grits.

    BLO test? :nono: BLO is a final oiled finish. You don't want it on your raw stock till it's time. When applied as a finish BLO will soak into the wood and give you a transparent semi gloss finish with an amber tint.

    It's interesting you mention your dad used BLO on his Garand. I cleaned and lubed one today and added another coat. He knew what was best. Don't mess with success!

    :thumbsup:

    I remember he had coworker who recommended it to him. I had forgotten about it until you guys mentioned it. The only thing I don’t like is both his Remington 700 and Garand hold a lot of grime around the grip of the stock. Both were treated with BLO. I have never tried to clean it. Should that come out easily?
     

    Bolts Rock

    Living in Free America!
    Apr 8, 2012
    6,123
    Northern Alabama
    For the ding I'd cut and glue a patch in place. I'd avoid BLO and use pure tung oil, it's just better.

    Color, do NOT use stain on maple, use dye. Visit a Woodcraft store, there's one in Rockville, and check out the dyes. You will want to test on scrap maple before using it on the stock. Dye dilution, multiple colors applied one after another and the effects of your finish coat need to be tested. You can use strng dye to color or very dilute dye to just pop the grain. Consider looking through the books on finishing furniture and buying one.
     

    Balzer94

    Active Member
    Feb 27, 2011
    769
    For the ding I'd cut and glue a patch in place. I'd avoid BLO and use pure tung oil, it's just better.

    Color, do NOT use stain on maple, use dye. Visit a Woodcraft store, there's one in Rockville, and check out the dyes. You will want to test on scrap maple before using it on the stock. Dye dilution, multiple colors applied one after another and the effects of your finish coat need to be tested. You can use strng dye to color or very dilute dye to just pop the grain. Consider looking through the books on finishing furniture and buying one.

    I’m headed down through there next weekend I will try and swing in there on my way back. What makes the ring oil better than BLO? I’ve been looking at track of the wolf’s website this morning. I noticed a BWC rifle stock wax. Should this be applied over the oil finish or does oil provide enough protection?

    For the guys saying to use BLO, my dad had used The Lin-speed oil. Is there any benefit to that product vs regular boiled linseed oil from Lowe’s?
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,728
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Boiled linseed oil takes a long time to dry. Linspeed has driers in it similar to Birchwood Casey's Tru Oil. I use real Tung Oil on my flintlocks. You have to buy it from a good furniture store, the Tung Oil in Home Depot is more of a varnish.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    32,877
    The whole idea of curly maple is to show off the grain figure, don't go too dark .

    Linseed and Tung oil both have their frevrent adherents . The simplified answer is both would work well , and mainly personal preference .

    Member Buellsfurn has experience owning a furnature restoration biz , and hopefully he will chime in on this
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    One good way to get that glass like stock appearance is to carefully apply some G-96, Linspeed or Tru oil after the grain has been completely filled.

    Once you have a couple of coats rubbed into the wood and to sufficient depth cut the same back back with with turpentine and 320 wet dry paper using a stiff felt pad or a small "backer" to level the surface.

    Re-apply as necessary to areas that have been thinned out. When its right, use your vehicle 50/50 oil and turpentine on the final coat with 400 wet dry.

    Make sure you have allowed sufficient time for the polymers in the oil to dry or you can end up with a sticky mess.

    Potassium Permanganate is an old time stain that is a purple crystal. KMnO4 can be found at a pharmacy and was used as an antiseptic and will come in a tablet.

    What it will do is bring out darker browns in the wood and even some yellows but you absolutely must neutralize the acid in the stock by mixing about 6-8 tablespoons of baking soda and rub the stock out with the water.

    Which your going to do anyhow to raise the grain. If you don't, the acids will turn the stock back to its original color.

    Here you can see KMn04 looks like on a cheap piece of maple. You can also see the "orange peel" when Linspeed needs smoothed out with wet dry paper on a hunting rifle.
    IMG_0038.jpg
     

    j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    I remember he had coworker who recommended it to him. I had forgotten about it until you guys mentioned it. The only thing I don’t like is both his Remington 700 and Garand hold a lot of grime around the grip of the stock. Both were treated with BLO. I have never tried to clean it. Should that come out easily?

    IMHO the grime on the grip areas of your Dad's rifles came from a lot of shooting with sometimes dirty hands. To me, that's part of the rifle's history in your Dad's hands. Could you clean it off? Sure - mineral spirits and stronger solvents like acetone will remove the BLO finish and grime and you can re-apply BLO. Should you do it? That's up to you. If it was me? I wouldn't because - as I said - it came from your Dad's hands. Personally, I prefer to preserve all the history of a family firearm.

    I don't disagree with other's remarks about BLO vs. Tung Oil. To me it's a matter of preference. Bolts Rock is absolutely correct about dye vs. stain on some woods. Alcohol based dyes I've used in the past are not usually not something you can pick up at Lowe's or Home Depot.

    As others have repeated, maple finish is prettier when lite vs. dark. The final outcome is up to you. Do your research and take your time at ever step. Once you have a plan on what you need to do next for each next step in the process - move forward...

    Looking forward to seeing your progress!

    :thumbsup:
     

    Bolts Rock

    Living in Free America!
    Apr 8, 2012
    6,123
    Northern Alabama
    I’m headed down through there next weekend I will try and swing in there on my way back. What makes the ring oil better than BLO? I’ve been looking at track of the wolf’s website this morning. I noticed a BWC rifle stock wax. Should this be applied over the oil finish or does oil provide enough protection?

    The whole idea of curly maple is to show off the grain figure, don't go too dark .

    Linseed and Tung oil both have their frevrent adherents . The simplified answer is both would work well , and mainly personal preference .

    Member Buellsfurn has experience owning a furnature restoration biz , and hopefully he will chime in on this

    It's not a personal preference thing. Tung oil provides superior moisture protection than BLO. Tung cures faster and harder, is slightly more wear resistant, does not soften and become sticky in hot humid conditions and does not significantly darken over time. For those reasons tung oil was preferred over linseed oil for USGI stocks except for the brief period of WWII when the supplies of tung were limited due to the Japanese being our enemy.

    I've been using tung oil in pure and urethane modified forms since the early 80s, pretty sure I know what I'm talking about.
     
    Last edited:

    Horseman308

    Active Member
    Jan 27, 2016
    222
    I'm late to the party here, but I'll add a couple of thoughts just in case. I'd try to clean out the chip enough to patch it with a piece of maple. Whether you cover it with a estuchon or not, it'll be much stronger. If you leave it visible, it'll look much better.

    One idea if you wanna go totally old school, instead of sanding you could use scrapers instead. Really sharp scrapers leave a nicer, slicker surface than sandpaper, though they take a while to get used to. Follow up with burnishing with a piece of smooth antler or screwdriver shaft.

    Whether you sand or scrape, definitely whisker the stock. I do it to all my wood working projects. Wipe a damp rag across the surface and let it dry. The wood fibers on the surface will swell and rise above the top. Remove them with the scraper or fine grade sandpaper. I do that 3-4 times. That way there are many fewer fibers to swell and rise when you put on the finish. It'll help leave the final surface much smoother.

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    Balzer94

    Active Member
    Feb 27, 2011
    769
    I’ve been busy with school for the past several months but things are starting to wind down so I’ve had time to mess with this some.

    I got some dyes from woodcraft in Rockville along with some “Tried and True” oil they recommended. It is a linseed oil mixed with beeswax. The guy who recommended it claims to have made lots of flintlocks and finishes with using the Tried and true.

    They recommended using the transtint dye. I tried it and didn’t have much success getting it to penetrate the wood evenly. I went back and grabbed two behlen solarlux dyes. It is premixed with alcohol and was much easier to work with.

    I did a few different color combinations with the 2 dyes to see if what I liked best. They all have 2 layers of dye. And then 2 layers of the oil so far.

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