357 Sig case prep

BUFF7MM · Dec 17, 2016

Who here loads 357 Sig? I did some searching and don't see to much info on it.
I'm seeing some stuff about sizing with a 40S&W die initially to keep from lubing the case, I've got a FCD for 40 to bulge bust my 10mm cases when and if needed and I'm sure I could run the 357 cases through it but figure I'll just lube and leave it at that.
Ok I'm done rambling on I guess.

since this is a bottle necked case, should I be trimming the cases?
I've got some FMJ 124's and some Bluedot to try out to start off with, but if you've got a favorite powder for it I'm all ears.

dbledoc · Dec 17, 2016

Tagging this thread. I am looking to start loading it too.

85MikeTPI · Dec 17, 2016

Use the carbide 40 die to avoid lube with the 357sig sizing. Bullet setback is a common problem and lube can exasperate the issue if it's not fully cleaned so best to avoid. Only Flat point or hollow point bullets can be used to meet the restricted COAL. I've used bluedot, power pistol, and 800x for my pet loads. Blue dot fills the case the most to help with setback. Crimping helps and finding a bullet that fits and has a cannelure is ideal.

http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar65.htm

I'm working on subsonic 357sig loads now.

BUFF7MM · Dec 17, 2016

85MikeTPI said:
Use the carbide 40 die to avoid lube with the 357sig sizing. Bullet setback is a common problem and lube can exasperate the issue if it's not fully cleaned so best to avoid. Only Flat point or hollow point bullets can be used to meet the restricted COAL. I've used bluedot, power pistol, and 800x for my pet loads. Blue dot fills the case the most to help with setback. Crimping helps and finding a bullet that fits and has a cannelure is ideal.

http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar65.htm

I'm working on subsonic 357sig loads now.

Do you think I can run the cases through a 40 factory crimp die with the crimper and adjusting screw removed to resize? I already use this for 10mm cases if I see a big enough bulge and they fall into a case gauge unabated, I'm thinking it should work since it's supposed to bring loaded rounds back to spec in the last step normally

85MikeTPI · Dec 17, 2016

Buff7mm said:
Do you think I can run the cases through a 40 factory crimp die with the crimper and adjusting screw removed to resize? I already use this for 10mm cases if I see a big enough bulge and they fall into a case gauge unabated, I'm thinking it should work since it's supposed to bring loaded rounds back to spec in the last step normally

I'm not familiar with the FCD.. The 40 carbide die I use is the sizing die that brings the case body and base back into spec without lube. Then the 357sig sizing die brings the shoulder and neck into spec. If the FCD will size the base and body like a sizing die, then it should work.

BUFF7MM · Dec 17, 2016

85MikeTPI said:
I'm not familiar with the FCD.. The 40 carbide die I use is the sizing die that brings the case body and base back into spec without lube. Then the 357sig sizing die brings the shoulder and neck into spec. If the FCD will size the base and body like a sizing die, then it should work.

It's got a carbide sizing ring in it and you push the entire case thru it. I'll give it a try after I get everything and get setup to run it.

StickShaker · Dec 17, 2016

Buff7mm said:
Do you think I can run the cases through a 40 factory crimp die with the crimper and adjusting screw removed to resize? I already use this for 10mm cases if I see a big enough bulge and they fall into a case gauge unabated, I'm thinking it should work since it's supposed to bring loaded rounds back to spec in the last step normally

I would think that the .40 FCD is a larger diameter than the sizing die. The sizing die has to account for springback plus the case gets expanded back out for bullet seating.

ETA: Yeah, give it a try though. I started my post before you posted. That gives you an idea of my pecking speed.

BigRick · Dec 17, 2016

There is a guy on youtube that has a video with him going over all the steps needed and he's using a 40 s&w carbide die. This is a caliber I intend on getting and you guys have already learned me something about 357sig reloading.

BUFF7MM · Dec 17, 2016

BigRick said:
There is a guy on youtube that has a video with him going over all the steps needed and he's using a 40 s&w carbide die. This is a caliber I intend on getting and you guys have already learned me something about 357sig reloading.

I think I saw that video this morning but I can't find it now.

BUFF7MM · Dec 17, 2016

StickShaker said:
I would think that the .40 FCD is a larger diameter than the sizing die. The sizing die has to account for springback plus the case gets expanded back out for bullet seating.

ETA: Yeah, give it a try though. I started my post before you posted. That gives you an idea of my pecking speed.

I'm going to give it a whirl, I've got 1000 once fired inbound as we speak so I can experiment a little bit.

BigRick · Dec 17, 2016

Here is the link. I think
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcT9jw6YnMs

StickShaker · Dec 17, 2016

Ole Buff must get bored when it's cold out. Next up......the FN 5.7x28mm. :innocent0

I got a rare chance to shoot one earlier this week. Cute little cartridge.

BUFF7MM · Dec 17, 2016

StickShaker said:
Ole Buff must get bored when it's cold out. Next up......the FN 5.7x28mm. I got a rare chance to shoot one earlier this week. Cute little cartridge.

No, no, no, my wife says I'm done.

The only reason I'm doing the 357 is I got a smoking deal on a Lone Wolf barrel for my G20 and cases, bullets, and dies that I couldn't pass up. Just over $150 for it all

StickShaker · Dec 17, 2016

We know how that works round here. I've been scoping out lever guns because someone gave me some .45 LC brass. :sad20:

Pinecone · Dec 18, 2016

The Lee FCD is designed so you can remove the crimper part, and push the case all the way through. Mainly designed to remove the Glock bulge that normaly sizing dies don't touch.

atblis · Dec 22, 2016

You need to use lube for the 357 SIG sizing die. Most are steel dies. While the case may not get stuck, the die can get scored. I think Dillon may have a carbide option. It also makes the cases run much much slicker through a carbide die anyways. Makes a big difference when loading on a progressive press.

I've never encountered a bulge on 357 SIG. I think the Glock factory 357 SIG barrels are considerably better supported than the 40 barrels.

For that Glock 20, you can load to 10mm length provided your barrel is throated appropriately. This means you can use regular old 9mm bullets and also have more room for powder.

If you must crimp, there's a Lee collet crimp die like for rifles. I wouldn't crimp unless there's a cannelure. I would also avoid flaring excessively, or at all. I've recently been experimenting chamfering the cases and not flaring.

StickShaker · Dec 22, 2016

atblis said:
I would also avoid flaring excessively, or at all. I've recently been experimenting chamfering the cases and not flaring.

+1 ^^^

I have gotten into the habit to slightly chamfer all pistol cases as most have a little burr on the inside. That and a Redding or Lyman M expander results in zero or very slight flare even for lead and plated bullets. Plus the bullets sit nice and square in the case.

atblis · Dec 22, 2016

I loves me some Lyman M die. I use it for jacketed bullets too.

Pinecone · Dec 22, 2016

In general, bottle necked cases need lube, even with a carbide die.

Straight wall cases get by without lube since the sizing is only a small section at the base of the die. So very little contact area.

But bottle necked cases touch the entire inside of the die.

If you do not lube, I HIGHLY recommend having a stuck care remover handy.

BUFF7MM · Dec 23, 2016

Ok so my stuff arrived today and I've semi set up everything, but I need to ask the brain trust a question about COAL. I've got some FMJRN 124 grain basically 9mm bullets that I'd like to shoot in this also and from all I've been reading the max COAL should be 1.14, I seated one of these at that length and its teetering on the ogive for that bullet. I seated one at 1.18 and it passes the plunk test in the Lone Wolf barrel, I actually could get away with 1.20 but that's right against the lands. Question is does anybody think I'll have any trouble pressure or other wise loading these out to the 1.18 length? I've got flat points inbound for this so I'm just wanting to have something to blast until the others arrive.
Below is what I've got 1.14 and 1.18 respectively.

357 Sig case prep

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