Weapon Cleaning kits, solvents and Lubes

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  • May 8, 2018
    42
    I have looked and I did not find a recent thread on this topic. I am looking to invest into some new cleaning equipment and wanted thoughts opinions and preferences on kits, solvents, lubes, and tools to get this job done. Lets assume that we are looking at all the common calibers and I have nothing. I am willing to spend the money if it is worth it but also do not need/want a diamond handled bore snake.

    I saw this on the interwebs and then thought before I buy reach out to the group here first.

    https://www.amazon.com/Otis-Technol...K6/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

    Thanks in Advance all
     

    BeoBill

    Crank in the Third Row
    MDS Supporter
    Oct 3, 2013
    27,058
    南馬里蘭州鮑伊
    The basics:
    • Cleaning rod/brush/jag set in the caliber of your choice
    • Old tee shirts
    • Hoppe's No. 9
    • Gun oil on sale
    Everything else is gravy. :D
     

    Major03

    Ultimate Member
    I'd avoid the kits with the segmented rods, they aren't good for your firearm. Make your own kit.

    FWIW, here's my homemade kit:
    - bore guide
    - brass jag set
    - nylon brush set
    - old toothbrush
    - wooden stemmed cotton swabs
    - old white cotton undershirts for rags / cutting into bore swabs
    - Dewey one piece coated cleaning rod (one large bore, one smaller bore...or whatever your collection requires). Tipton's are also decent rods. I have both, and either will do but the Dewey's a little nicer.
    - Butch's bore cleaner (or Hoppe's...but I like Butch's a bit better)
    - Mobile 1 for cheaper alternative to CLP for general cleaning and lubricating (buy a eyedropper from the Dollar Store or Michael's)
    - Eezox for long term storage

    I'd avoid any scrapers or picks or things of that nature. You'll do more harm than good using them.

    I have bore snakes for a field expedient cleaning, but I've only used it once. I generally don't care for them, as repetitive use can induce uneven wear on the crown.

    In general, I believe most people over clean their firearms. The old Marine in me sometimes cringes saying that, but it's true. As a rule of thumb, most firearms are over cleaned and under lubricated. Sometimes less is more when it comes to cleaning so long as it remains well lubricated. The exception here is if you're going to be storing a firearm for an extended period of time. Then it deserves a decent go over with a preservative. I like Eezox for that.
     

    Major03

    Ultimate Member
    One more add to your kit...if you have an M1 Garand, an M1A and/or an M1 Carbine...add a mil-spec grease like Lubriplate to your kit. Read up on where to lubricate with oil and where to use grease. General rule of thumb, if it slides grease it and if it rotates oil it.

    You can buy the original M1 grease pots on ebay for not too much. They handily fit into the butt stock.
     

    teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    One more add to your kit...if you have an M1 Garand, an M1A and/or an M1 Carbine...add a mil-spec grease like Lubriplate to your kit. Read up on where to lubricate with oil and where to use grease. General rule of thumb, if it slides grease it and if it rotates oil it.

    You can buy the original M1 grease pots on ebay for not too much. They handily fit into the butt stock.

    Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease works great and a lifetime supply is under $10.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    And for oil, Mobil 1 synthetic oil is cheap and works great.

    And remember, most firearms are damaged by over cleaning than under cleaning.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    32,877
    Beo's list , with following changes :

    Add specialized copper solvent , if you shoot jacketed.

    Add Lewis Lead Remover if you shoot lead

    Substitute Rotella T-6 or Mobile One for gun oil .
     

    Bullfrog

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 8, 2009
    15,152
    Carroll County
    Ballistol.

    Ballistol + water in a spray bottle are great for cleaning/rinsing immediately after corrosive ammo. The water dissolves the salts (which the usual oils and clp do not), then the water evaporates leaving the ballistol as a protective film until you can clean it more thoroughly.

    This was a Chad recommendation from a few years ago also.
     
    May 8, 2018
    42
    Thanks All, This is some good info. I like piecing a kit together and not having the "extra" pieces that one would never use. I have a old tool box that will be perfect for this.
     

    Boats

    Beer, Bikes n Boomsticks
    Mar 13, 2012
    4,073
    Howeird County
    Mil-Comm tw25b grease (excellent lightweight grease)
    Brian Enos Slideglide lite (excellent heavyweight grease)
    Lubtikit EX2 or EX2B (excellent midweight grease)

    FMO-AW-350 oil (excellent LP)
    Hoppes 9
    Boretech eliminator (geat copper killer but less agressive than Butch's
    Boeshield T9 (excellent rust blocker)
    Boresmith patches
    Tipton nickle coated brass jags especially if you are using a copper dissolver. Brass contains copper.

    Be wary of:
    Eezox-contains chlorinated esters and may contribute to metal fatigue
    Lubtikit EX2B- excellent anti-wear grease but the B is hexaboronitride which may not play well with anodizing
     

    dist1646

    Ultimate Member
    May 1, 2012
    8,758
    Eldersburg
    One more add to your kit...if you have an M1 Garand, an M1A and/or an M1 Carbine...add a mil-spec grease like Lubriplate to your kit. Read up on where to lubricate with oil and where to use grease. General rule of thumb, if it slides grease it and if it rotates oil it.

    You can buy the original M1 grease pots on ebay for not too much. They handily fit into the butt stock.

    And the appropriate cleaning rod guide for each.:innocent0
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    Some people love to spend money on snake oil products.You don't need a gun lubricant. Motor Oil and Grease works equal to the most expensive "gun lubes" for much less cost.

    You don't have to clean a firearm after every use. This became unnecessary with modern propellants and lubricants/protectants.

    Unless you have a poor quality firearm, you don't need to clean often, just keep the gun lubricated.

    As Dist1646 said, buy bore and muzzle guides for your rifles.

    Don't use sectioned rods, bore snakes, or pull through cleaning kits.

    For rifles buy a one piece coated rod for the appropriate calibers. Dewey are just fine and not super expensive. The dewey eliminator jags will prevent false positives for copper.

    For cleaning the bores. Wipe Out Liquid. It's a No brushes cleaner for the bore. Just patches and jags. No need for expensive patches.

    The cleaning foams can be bad for AR's and other gas systems if you don't flush it out, it will turn into a green/blue gel and get tacky. Unless you shoot corrosive ammo, have a really crappy barrel (fouls rapidly), or are a serious match shooter, you don't need to clean the bore often.

    When it's time to clean the gun I clean with hot water and degreaser. Blow off the moisture with a compressor, and lubricate. No metal picks or wire brushes. Just nylon brushes, and my cleaning solution.

    Gun Scrubber or Brake cleaner is not bad for detail

    I dont use sonic cleaners for anything assembled as it can allow etching. All I use them for is suppressor baffles.

    For exterior wipedown (protectant), Eezox is great, as is Birchwood Casey barricade, and WD 40. None of these products are suitable lubricants.
     

    K-43

    West of Morning Side
    Oct 20, 2010
    1,881
    PG
    What Clandestine said! :thumbsup:
    I do use Mil-Comm tw25b grease for some things, but Mobil 1 or Amsoil automotive grease on Garands and M14 clones. Napier VP-90 corrosion preventive oil instead of Eezox. Renaissance Wax for stock and under wood metal, though good old Johnson's paste wax should work.
    AR gas tubes - Spray Carb Cleaner soak followed by pipe cleaners if scrubbing is needed and then spray Brake Parts Cleaner to flush and dry. Learned that for inspections where the slap bang transfer of rifle can knock loose any carbon in the tube for a white glove to find. :omg:

    You'll develop you're own favorites.
    Don't need to clean every time unless you're shooting corrosive primers. Then H2O is the only thing that dissolves the salt. Ammonia only acts as a detergent, dish soap is better.

    P.S. Militec-1 oil goes rancid or something over time. I've got a 10 year old bottle that smells really rank. I don't know why I've never trashed it.
     

    Not_an_outlaw

    Ultimate Member
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 26, 2013
    4,679
    Prince Frederick, MD
    I see no bore brushes but only jags. Is hat the current method. I've always used brass bore brushes. When done with that, I take a old worn wire brush with a patch. Then oil application with just a patch. Am I doing it wrong?
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    I see no bore brushes but only jags. Is hat the current method. I've always used brass bore brushes. When done with that, I take a old worn wire brush with a patch. Then oil application with just a patch. Am I doing it wrong?

    Depends on the bore cleaner used. Some are quite ineffective and require assistance with removing mechanical fouling (bushes).

    Wipe Out does not require brushes. Just jag and patch.

    Brushes often leave deposits of their own which can lead to a false positive with copper solvents.
     

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