Trap Gun: What do you look for?

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  • Mar 6, 2019
    67
    I bought a shotgun 3 weeks ago with the intent to start shooting trap. Not knowing anything I picked up a Mossberg 500 12 ga with a 28” vent rib barrel. I’m planning on shooting it until I know more about trap shooting and figure out my likes and dislikes. I figured out how to shoot decent enough for a beginner. I can hit 22, but I don’t consistently remember my working sight picture after mounting or to get a firm cheek weld. Because of that I’ll shoot between 10-22.

    My Boyd’s stock should be here tomorrow to hopefully raise the comb and help with my cheek weld. I see some of the rib since I use a figure 8 sight picture using my two beads to get me on target. I can work with that for now, but eventually I’ll want something that works with a more natural hold. If the stock fixes it then great. If not I’ll keep making that adjustment.

    What other things do you look for in a trap gun? I’m looking for generalizations instead of gun recommendations. Just things to consider after my round because I’m sure I’ll eventually want something that’s specialized.
     

    slsc98

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    May 24, 2012
    6,855
    Escaped MD-stan to WNC Smokies
    ...What other things do you look for in a trap gun?

    Fit.

    Congratulations and you’re wise to not “rush” into anything. Look for a used BT-99 ... Shydas used to have one on the consignment rack there, regularly (of course, there’re no shortage of trap ranges in that region so, that’s a hint on the kind of areas you might wanna focus ...). Or, a used o/u like a Browning or Beretta with at least 28” (preferably longer) barrels and screw-in chokes.

    Oh yeah, fit!

    Sounds like you’re off to a good start - have fun! :thumbsup:
     

    tallen702

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 3, 2012
    5,119
    In the boonies of MoCo
    I shoot trap with classic working-man's hunting doubles and auto-loaders and consistently break 20+. These are full choke guns with 28-30" barrels on them. It's about fit, muscle memory, and being able to point-and-shoot vs aim. Fit and practice are more important than anything else.
     
    Mar 6, 2019
    67
    I shoot trap with classic working-man's hunting doubles and auto-loaders and consistently break 20+. These are full choke guns with 28-30" barrels on them. It's about fit, muscle memory, and being able to point-and-shoot vs aim. Fit and practice are more important than anything else.


    I had a bunch typed about my compensation to shoot trap when I think I had that light bulb moment. I’m shooting low because I’m using a field gun as a trap gun. I don’t aim like a rifle but I can still see the fuzzy bead as I’m focusing on the clay. Raising the muzzle end to figure 8 the beads isn’t the right mounted position but an adjustment so I can pull the trigger when the bead passes the clay. I’ve read articles that talk about covering the clay with the barrel with a field gun. If I cover the clay with my barrel I should be able to maintain the correct sight picture with no rib visible when mounting the shotgun and start building correct muscle memory. Does that sound right?
     

    SkiPatrolDude

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Oct 24, 2017
    3,377
    Timonium-Lutherville
    60/40 shot pattern is generally the favorable shot pattern for a clay gun.

    Once you’re ready to upgrade, I’d consider an over under 30 or 32 in barrels, swappable extended chokes, and most importantly choosing a gun that fits well.

    I run a Full and Improved Modified in my O/U. Choke to Smoke!

    Most will suggest a Browning or Beretta. The sky is the limit with a good O/U. I found a lot of bang for my buck with a Browning Cynergy CX. Fits great and I smoke clays all day and I am by all means an amateur.
     

    Aamdskeetshooter

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 19, 2013
    1,746
    Moco
    Because Trap birds are rising most Trap Guns shoot a high pattern. Meaning that the shot shoots above the point of aim. Anywhere from 60% to 120% high depending on how the gun is set up. Most newly manufactured trap guns have adjustable ribs so you can adjust how high the gun shoots based on your personal preference.

    A major decision to make is what kind of action do you want? A single barrel Trap gun is only good for 16 yard and handicap trap. You can’t use it to shoot trap doubles or Skeet or Sporting Clays. It’s relatively cheap compared to an O/U. Pump guns are cheap and are fine for 16 and handicap. They’re at a distinct disadvantage at doubles trap, Skeet and Sporting. Automatics are more expensive than pump guns and some single barrels. One issue with autos is that you’re ejecting the hull at your squadmate and his possibly $10,000+ gun. There are ways to prevent that though. Last is the O/U. Everyone wants an O/U. The biggest problem is that they are expensive. Someone commented that everyone recommends Browning or Beretta. That’s because they are the 2 cheapest brands that are reputable. You will have problems with any O/U that is cheaper PERIOD! I can recommend a number of brands of shotguns that are more expensive than the B guns if you’d like. Trust me you won’t like the price. One other point is barrel length. Buy 32” barrels on an O/U. 34” on a single barrel. That’s what the vast vast majority of trapshooters shoot. Very petite women and junior shooters can shoot 30” guns. A trap gun with shorter barrels will be harder to sell at a later date also. That’s enough to get you started.

    Sorry for the long response. Let me know if you have any further questions.
     
    Mar 6, 2019
    67
    Sorry for the long response. Let me know if you have any further questions.


    I’m still discovering my preferences. This is my first shotgun and I’m new to trap. I think a lot of my preferences stem from an ill fitting gun. Things like more drop at heel and less drop at comb so my head can be upright with the butt in my shoulder pocket. I’d like to do that now but I’m fitting myself to my gun. It is what it is and I can make it work for now.

    I’d like a heavier gun with a longer barrel and slightly more muzzle heavy to slow and maintain my swing when I get excited by that hard right on 5. With that weight, some type of break action seems best to rest the gun on my shoe between shots. I haven’t counted pellets but I do best with an eyeballed 80-20 split centered about 12” high from point of aim at 27 yards based on my setup at the patterning range. I did change chokes so that might be different now. I scored the same but the quality of hits was better with my new choke. That’s about all the things I’ve found out I care about so far.

    Are there any other trap specific preferences I should care about? Shotgun specific? Or is it really just as simple as get more trigger time and find out what I don’t know when I get to it? Kind of like there are no shortcuts to gain experience.
     

    jimbobborg

    Oddball caliber fan
    Aug 2, 2010
    17,120
    Northern Virginia
    Spend the coin and get someone professional to see you shoot and they can probably tell you what you need in terms of fit.

    I currently just shoot sporting clays, as the range I go to has lines for skeet and trap. I use a Benelli M2 3-gun edition, with a 24" barrel and a +7 tube extender. I'll be getting a +9 if I really get into 3-gun again. I do enjoy the looks I get when I pass other shooters. It almost looks like an OU, which confuses people.
     

    Aamdskeetshooter

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 19, 2013
    1,746
    Moco
    I’m still discovering my preferences. This is my first shotgun and I’m new to trap. I think a lot of my preferences stem from an ill fitting gun. Things like more drop at heel and less drop at comb so my head can be upright with the butt in my shoulder pocket. I’d like to do that now but I’m fitting myself to my gun. It is what it is and I can make it work for now.

    I’d like a heavier gun with a longer barrel and slightly more muzzle heavy to slow and maintain my swing when I get excited by that hard right on 5. With that weight, some type of break action seems best to rest the gun on my shoe between shots. I haven’t counted pellets but I do best with an eyeballed 80-20 split centered about 12” high from point of aim at 27 yards based on my setup at the patterning range. I did change chokes so that might be different now. I scored the same but the quality of hits was better with my new choke. That’s about all the things I’ve found out I care about so far.

    Are there any other trap specific preferences I should care about? Shotgun specific? Or is it really just as simple as get more trigger time and find out what I don’t know when I get to it? Kind of like there are no shortcuts to gain experience.
    When it comes to shotgunning gun fit is extremely important. Your eye is the rear sight on a shotgun. The eye has to be in the right spot for you to break birds. In a perfect world you should be able to close your eyes and mount your gun and have the front and mid beads be lined up when you open your eyes. To get to this mist competition shotguns get fitted with an adjustable comb and or buttplate. The adjustable comb moves up and down and left and right so your eye can be put into the correct position over the gun. The adjustable buttplate moves up and down but also twists left and right so the pad fits into your shoulder pocket. The goal is to have the gun level and not canted. So you can’t the pad. Another dimension to discuss is pitch. Pitch is the angle of the pad in relation to the rib. When you put the gun on your shoulder the top of the pad and the bottom of the pad should both be contacting your should equally. If the bottom is and the top isn’t the gun will recoil into your face. If the top is and the bottom isn’t the gun will dip down when you shoot. Not good either because it makes followup shots harder. In addition, the amount of pitch you need will change if you change your stance because the angle of your shoulder that the gun is put up against is different.

    Some shotguns come from the factory with an adjustable comb and/or butt. The ones that don’t come with it can be fitted afterwards by a gunsmith familiar with shotguns. Because of the cost of getting this done you don’t want to do this to a $500 shotgun.

    Here’s a picture of a stick with both.

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    Here’s a link to a Remington 1100 competition. It also has a recoil reduction mechanism in the stock. The pitch is not adjustable.

    https://www.remington.com/shotguns/autoloading/model-1100/model-1100-competition-synthetic

    Here’s a link to a great shop that really knows shotguns especially trap guns. They can add both to your gun. It’s definitely worth the road trip. Largest Beretta dealer in the country for a reason. Customer Service.

    https://www.joeletchenguns.com
     

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