Picatinny rail on Turk scattergun issue

willtill · Aug 24, 2021

This is the second screw that has fallen/stripped out of my Tristar ATAC. This happened yesterday at the range.

I don't think that these screws are adequate for the recoil of heavy loads. They were tight from the git-go and threadlocked. So now I am almost 100 percent committed to permanently reinstalling the rail this morning with JB Weld.

Normal school of thought would be to drill out and re-tap for larger screws. I think JB Weld is a much more economical way to repair this, for I have no plans to ever remove the rail and no plans to spend an exorbitant amount of money with a gunsmith to address a $300.00 turk shotgun. For sure I'm a collector of tools but don't even want to buy a tap and die set right now; in order to do it myself.

I've did a little research on the Internet for what I'm about to do. Just curious if anyone else has done the same thing...

Bountied · Aug 24, 2021

Whatever works. JB weld has failed me in the past. It is aluminum? I've used a piece of plastic to make the hole smaller and screwed into that. Are there any other ways to attach the rail?

Maybe try better screws of the same thread pitch? If the rail is aluminum and you get harder screws you can screw into the aluminum and it'll reset the thread without tapping.

willtill · Aug 24, 2021

Bountied said:
Whatever works. JB weld ahs failed me in the past. It is aluminum? I've used a piece of plastic to make the hole smaller and screwed into that. Are there any other ways to attach the rail?

Receiver is steel and the rail is aluminum.

No other way to attach the rail unless I drill additional holes. Not doing that. Too much work.

Did you abrade both surfaces before you applied JB Weld? To give the epoxy something to "bite" to?

Bountied · Aug 24, 2021

You could also buy a Remington with the cantilever rail and sell the Tristar?

willtill · Aug 24, 2021

Bountied said:
You could also buy a Remington with the cantilever rail and sell the Tristar?

I already have a Remmy with a cantilever barrel

I like this turk gun though. So am going to make it work. All guns need love. This turk is just asking for a bit more right now.

Aamdskeetshooter · Aug 24, 2021

Turkish shotgun.

Can’t say I’m surprised. They have a BAD reputation. At least the gun still goes bang. Good luck.

willtill · Aug 24, 2021

Aamdskeetshooter said:
Turkish shotgun. Can’t say I’m surprised. They have a BAD reputation. At least the gun still goes bang. Good luck.

Yea. Not the best reputation among all shotguns. But this one cycles well and is comfortable (fits me).

I'm going to clean it up from yesterday's shooting session, and then degrease/abrade/JB Weld the rail onto the receiver. Crossing the Rubicon. Unless I torch it back off. That ain't happening.

Rambler · Aug 24, 2021

willtill said:
Receiver is steel and the rail is aluminum.

No other way to attach the rail unless I drill additional holes. Not doing that. Too much work.

Did you abrade both surfaces before you applied JB Weld? To give the epoxy something to "bite" to?

Make sure you clean the surfaces you wish to adhere very well with acetone or isopropyl alcohol.

willtill · Aug 24, 2021

Rambler said:
Make sure you clean the surfaces you wish to adhere very well with acetone or isopropyl alcohol.

I have isopropyl but I think I'll run out to get a small can of acetone. The plastic fouling is pretty bad in the bore of it from yesterday, so acetone will make quick work of that. Acestone will remove bluing too. Must be careful

Bountied · Aug 24, 2021

willtill said:
I have isopropyl but I think I'll run out to get a small can of acetone. The plastic fouling is pretty bad in the bore of it from yesterday, so acetone will make quick work of that. Acestone will remove bluing too. Must be careful

Just bubba the hell out of it. As long as it still functions it'll be fine.

Did you check the threads in receiver? If the screws were the wrong thread pitch and that's why they stripped maybe you can get the correct screws? Cheap screws are a problem. If the threads looks ok on the receiver maybe just upgrade the screws?

MiddleRiverShootist · Aug 24, 2021

is it like a 870? i have a mount for a 870 uses the trigger pins

MiddleRiverShootist · Aug 24, 2021

mount

willtill · Aug 24, 2021

MiddleRiverShootest said:
View attachment 320301

No, it wouldn't accept that type of mount.

Sirex · Aug 24, 2021

I have a Tristar Tec 12 and the screws backed out of my rail as well. I used some JB Weld, and so far so good, but I don't really use anything on the rail anyways. I absolutely love the shotgun though.

Mule · Aug 24, 2021

willtill said:
For sure I'm a collector of tools but don't even want to buy a tap and die set right now; in order to do it myself.

It seems like you're going to move forward with your JB Weld plan. (or may already have)

However, in the event you decide to go the drill and tap route, and would like to do it without adding to your collection, you're welcome to borrow one from me.

willtill · Aug 25, 2021

Mule said:
It seems like you're going to move forward with your JB Weld plan. (or may already have)

However, in the event you decide to go the drill and tap route, and would like to do it without adding to your collection, you're welcome to borrow one from me.

Well thank you, that is kind to offer; though yes, I am pursuing the JB Weld solution.

bigjohn · Sep 4, 2021

Bed the mount and put it back on. That’s if the threads aren’t stripped.

Pinecone · Sep 5, 2021

Tap with proper drill bit is not expensive on Amazon.

Then assemble the threaded part with Loctite 271/272 (red).

A film of JB Weld or a quality epoxy ( I use WEST Systems) along the entire mount will carry some of the load, instead of putting it all on the screws.

willtill · Oct 26, 2021

Aaargh. She'd be recovering now. Hurt me heart to grind down the topside of 'er receiver, but the lass has nigh thick'ness throughout topside for a another larger screw, so she be settling fer balling instead.

Picatinny rail on Turk scattergun issue

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