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  • lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,726
    Will your gun blow up or otherwise become over-pressured? No.

    Will your rounds not ignite because your revolver's hammer doesn't have the oomph to light off SPMs? Possibly.
    That's probably a lot more likely with a striker fired gun than a hammer fired gun.
     

    Uncle Duke

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 2, 2013
    11,717
    Not Far Enough from the City
    Thanks Uncle Duke, I suspected so.

    My M.O. Modus operandi is to cross reference everything by the book(s)

    I have only reloaded .270 ammo for hunting and my other hunting load is .30-06, so I hadn't crossed the bridge of questions on Magnum calibers yet. Now that I am wanting to reload pistol ammo, the variations of primers necessary to purchase is now in the picture.

    I have the Hornady reloading manual that came with my Lock N Load kit, and as another member suggested, I should get a Lyman manual, and it never hurts to have others for my library of resources..

    Two generalities.

    One, with handgun cartridges, figure on magnum primers with ball powders such as H110/W296. Other popular magnum powders (Alliant 2400 for example) will use standard primers.

    Two, on your rifle side, Speer in particular will tend to specify magnum primers with ball type powders. Other manuals, not so much.

    The thing to remember is that these data sources are putting their names behind the data they publish. So yes, do indeed cross reference data sources. Remember also that bullet manufacturer reloading manuals will be specific to their own product. Hornady to Hornady product, Sierra to Sierra, Speer to Speer, Berger to Berger, Nosler to Nosler. These are the bullets you're most likely to find, with Hornady and Sierra being the most likely to find in stock of the likely suspects. Other manuals are more generic, such as the Lyman manual you mention, Richard Lee's manual as well, and the powder manufacturers. With the bullet manufacturers manuals, they'll tell you the exact product number of the bullet they're using. No guesswork for new loaders regarding WHICH 150 grain bullet (for example) that way. With the generic manuals, it's oftentimes about knowing to look for "most similar" product, or a better offering of cast rather than jacketed product choices amongst other considerations.

    Yes, do indeed build your library. Your manuals are a reloaders greatest and most valuable asset, and your best money spent on the hobby. Especially true is you take the time to truly read and understand the info they contain. The wealth of information they contain is far greater than simply load data.
     
    Last edited:

    chilipeppermaniac

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Two generalities.

    One, with handgun cartridges, figure on magnum primers with ball powders such as H110/W296. Other popular magnum powders (Alliant 2400 for example) will use standard primers.

    Two, on your rifle side, Speer in particular will tend to specify magnum primers with ball type powders. Other manuals, not so much.

    The thing to remember is that these data sources are putting their names behind the data they publish. So yes, do indeed cross reference data sources. Remember also that bullet manufacturer reloading manuals will be specific to their own product. Hornady to Hornady product, Sierra to Sierra, Speer to Speer, Berger to Berger, Nosler to Nosler. These are the bullets you're most likely to find, with Hornady and Sierra being the most likely to find in stock of the likely suspects. Other manuals are more generic, such as the Lyman manual you mention, Richard Lee's manual as well, and the powder manufacturers. With the bullet manufacturers manuals, they'll tell you the exact product number of the bullet they're using. No guesswork for new loaders regarding WHICH 150 grain bullet (for example) that way. With the generic manuals, it's oftentimes about knowing to look for "most similar" product, or a better offering of cast rather than jacketed product choices amongst other considerations.

    Yes, do indeed build your library. Your manuals are a reloaders greatest and most valuable asset, and your best money spent on the hobby. Especially true is you take the time to truly read and understand the info they contain. The wealth of information they contain is far greater than simply load data.
    Much thanks, Uncle Duke
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,726
    You are wrong about that in the context of revolvers.

    Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk
    I’ll take your word for it. I don’t have a ton of revolvers, but they certainly leave a stronger and deeper primer imprint than my Glocks do on primers. A Colt OP, Dan Wesson 44, and an S&W 27-2 in .357.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,726
    Two generalities.

    One, with handgun cartridges, figure on magnum primers with ball powders such as H110/W296. Other popular magnum powders (Alliant 2400 for example) will use standard primers.

    Two, on your rifle side, Speer in particular will tend to specify magnum primers with ball type powders. Other manuals, not so much.

    The thing to remember is that these data sources are putting their names behind the data they publish. So yes, do indeed cross reference data sources. Remember also that bullet manufacturer reloading manuals will be specific to their own product. Hornady to Hornady product, Sierra to Sierra, Speer to Speer, Berger to Berger, Nosler to Nosler. These are the bullets you're most likely to find, with Hornady and Sierra being the most likely to find in stock of the likely suspects. Other manuals are more generic, such as the Lyman manual you mention, Richard Lee's manual as well, and the powder manufacturers. With the bullet manufacturers manuals, they'll tell you the exact product number of the bullet they're using. No guesswork for new loaders regarding WHICH 150 grain bullet (for example) that way. With the generic manuals, it's oftentimes about knowing to look for "most similar" product, or a better offering of cast rather than jacketed product choices amongst other considerations.

    Yes, do indeed build your library. Your manuals are a reloaders greatest and most valuable asset, and your best money spent on the hobby. Especially true is you take the time to truly read and understand the info they contain. The wealth of information they contain is far greater than simply load data.
    And then you’ll also tear your hair out because you cross reference 8 manuals for one load and they all have a jacketed hollow point 158gr bullet load for .357 magnum, all using magnum primers and H110 and oh look at that, 3 of them have a starting load over the max load for two of the others.

    Not super common, but sometimes there can be wide disagreement between manuals. Some is because of other component selection in there, but sometimes near identical loads have different charge recommendations.
     

    chilipeppermaniac

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    357 doesn't necessarily use SPM primers. It depends on the powder and the charge. A small pistol primer in a 357 case with regular 357 primers will happily set it off. It is really only when you get in to ball magnum powders like lil gun and H110 you have to use a magnum primer.

    Same with 44 mag. Run regular pistol powders and you don't really need a magnum primer. Run magnum powders, you need a magnum primer.

    Magnum primers with non-magnum powders will lead to higher pressures and tend to have less consistency in burn rate. My bit of experimentation is you tend to get 10-20fps more velocity (but not always), but at least with CFE pistol, Bullseye, and Titegroup I notice reduced accuracy and standard deviations with magnum primers. It isn't a dramatic drop off, but in 38spc as an example, I typically see around 6-8fps SDs with 158gr MBC SWC loaded with, I think it is, 3.6gr of Bullseye and CCI standard pistol primers. It clocks in at about 820fps out of my 6" Colt Official Police. Switching to magnum primers I see about 835fps, but SDs of 16-18fps and accuracy is a little poorer. Out of my 44 Mag running Winchester LPP (which are magnum hot) and TG, I see about 26-28fps SDs running then at around 1150fps for 240gr MBC SWC. Switching to CCI LPP and velocity drops about 10fps, but SD's also drop into the low teens and accuracy at even just 25yds tightens up an inch or two offhand.

    I've tested CCI standard vs magnum, federal standard vs magnum, and Winchester Standard for small pistol. In large pistol I've tested CCI standard large, CCI magnum large, Federal GMM large, and Winchester large (which is advertised for both, and is definitely hotter than CCI or federal standard large).

    Not the topic exactly, but with rifle, I've been playing with standard versus magnum primers for .223 and 6.5 grendel with CFE223 powder. I've heard recommendations to use magnum primers with it. If I use a magnum primer, velocity actually DROPS for CCI magnums SR versus CCI standard SR, but consistency with the Magnum primers tends to run low teens, and standard primers it tends to run around 18-22fps. But, accuracy drops with the magnum primers in every load I've tried in both 223 and 6.5 Grendel. Even trying new ladders and finding the most accurate node with magnum primers. At least CCI. For example with Sierra 69gr BTHP standard primer 5 shot groups with CFE223 is in the .7-.8MOA range. With magnum primers the most accurate node is .1gr less, but I can only achieve 1MOA. In Grendel, 123gr Hornady BTHP bullets I can run .9MOA with CFE223 and standard primers. Magnum primers it is 1.2MOA (most accurate node being .1gr higher powder charge). I've tested in both cold weather and warm weather. I suppose in sub zero temps the magnum primers might just be straight up needed to reasonably ignite the powder, but I don't hunt the arctic, so I am sticking to standard primers. At least for CFE223. Now, stuff I load for my ARs will get Magnum or NATO primers as both have harder cups and tenths of a MOA usually matter a lot less for me there, versus shooting precision(ish) stuff out of my Howa's.
    Thank you Lazarus,

    This was an extensive and well presented answer. I have learned a lot already from Uncle Duke, erwos and you today, plus 4g64loser and others in some prior discussions.
     

    Uncle Duke

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 2, 2013
    11,717
    Not Far Enough from the City
    And then you’ll also tear your hair out because you cross reference 8 manuals for one load and they all have a jacketed hollow point 158gr bullet load for .357 magnum, all using magnum primers and H110 and oh look at that, 3 of them have a starting load over the max load for two of the others.

    Not super common, but sometimes there can be wide disagreement between manuals. Some is because of other component selection in there, but sometimes near identical loads have different charge recommendations.

    Ok. But remember, are we always seeing what we think we're looking at? What other variables might differ? Primer and lot? Powder and lot? Brass? Bullet configuration...other than just the same grain weight? Weather? Gun or test barrel used?

    What is the reason for the discrepancies? Do you know? See a pretty broad overall consensus, but an outlier somewhere? Why? Because there's a reason. One that may or may not always be obvious.
     

    chilipeppermaniac

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Ok. But remember, are we always seeing what we think we're looking at? What other variables might differ? Primer and lot? Powder and lot? Brass? Bullet configuration...other than just the same grain weight? Weather? Gun or test barrel used?

    What is the reason for the discrepancies? Do you know? See a pretty broad overall consensus, but an outlier somewhere? Why? Because there's a reason. One that may or may not always be obvious.
    Uncle Duke,

    I can see your rationale for these statements. I'm not gonna dog you, or erwos or Lazarus or anyone on advice. I am definitely the newb on this subject.

    But I will say, having known a rocket scientist dad of a friend and some of his stories of his work place, his former boss, and his younger co workers, it is never too late to learn a lesson or add to one's knowledge from the experiences of others.

    My favorite 2 stories of his are these. He is now about 82 or 83 years old. He literally was an engineer that worked on rockets/satellites and that type of stuff.
    First, he told the story of how before he " retired" and was essentially a paid consultant at his firm still, he used to think his old boss was pretty much a do nothing boss. THAT was until that boss retired and some or all of his job duties fell upon his shoulders. He tells it like this, He learned that his boss was so good at his job, that he shielded his charges from the BS and minutia so that they could concentrate on their tasks at hand and maximize their talents. To me this is quite a lesson learned.

    2nd is something I witnessed in real time. I was painting at their house and he'd often field calls from Junior engineers especially when they'd have problems getting their "formulas and computer generated processes" to work in real life situations. In other words, they were young bucks out of college and taught all the most modern science and using high tech to design and build stuff, yet they encountered reliability issues. My friend's dad would tell them on the phone, just do what I tell you, and it will work, and forget all your new-fangled tricks, and it WILL WORK. Whenever he would hang up the phone, I could see that he struggled to convince them that he knew what their formulas and models and computer stuff was telling them, BUT from all the methods he had already reliably been using to do the job, that if they just listened to him, their problems would be solved.
     

    cotman68

    Active Member
    Feb 21, 2010
    797
    Stewartstown, Pa
    I know this may not be the "politically correct" place for this, but considering this is probably where the majority of the primer hounds are, and would be interested in, I'll throw these out here, and hopefully not to get thrown out alltogether ! Somehow in my travels, I either picked up by accident, or grabbed out of desperation (maybe a little of both) 2 packs of small magnum pistol primers. I have no use for these, and figured I'll swap with someone here that may want them, and use them. I'll consider any of the following - small pistol, small rifle, or large rifle primers from any reputible company. Powders that would work for 9mm, 223, 30.06, or 350 Legend. Ammo or bullets are ok too, even cash if you like - I just have zero use for these. Anyway, PM me if you're interested. Thanks in advance.

    Edit - Village idiot here in northern PG county, suprising right ! I'll travel within reason. Thanks

    You may wanna to try the barter thread as well


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    cotman68

    Active Member
    Feb 21, 2010
    797
    Stewartstown, Pa
    I know this may not be the "politically correct" place for this, but considering this is probably where the majority of the primer hounds are, and would be interested in, I'll throw these out here, and hopefully not to get thrown out alltogether ! Somehow in my travels, I either picked up by accident, or grabbed out of desperation (maybe a little of both) 2 packs of small magnum pistol primers. I have no use for these, and figured I'll swap with someone here that may want them, and use them. I'll consider any of the following - small pistol, small rifle, or large rifle primers from any reputible company. Powders that would work for 9mm, 223, 30.06, or 350 Legend. Ammo or bullets are ok too, even cash if you like - I just have zero use for these. Anyway, PM me if you're interested. Thanks in advance.

    Edit - Village idiot here in northern PG county, suprising right ! I'll travel within reason. Thanks

    You may wanna to try the barter thread as well


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    85MikeTPI

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 19, 2014
    2,728
    Ceciltucky
    Precision has Rem 7-1/2 and CCI SPP and MSPP for decent prices these days (8.7cpr before haz/ship/tax). A ton of powder in stock also so might be able to spread that Hazmat over a larger purchase.

     

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