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Old February 16th, 2009, 01:02 PM #1
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need a hand removing front site base

I want to remove my front site base. I had 1 guy take a stab at it, and it didn't even budge. Doe anybody know a local smith that could take care of this for me? I'm trying to gte it done by this Friday for the group shoot.

Thanks.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 01:18 PM #2
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How's it attached? Screws or solder?
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Old February 16th, 2009, 01:27 PM #3
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2 pins, and they're in there!
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Old February 16th, 2009, 01:39 PM #4
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Heat is your friend, hot enough to make the different steels expand and break the "sticking". Kroil is great stuff too. Proper sized drift pin tools. Barrel in a solid, padded vise on a solid work surface. Careful tapping with a small hammer. I assume these pins are horizontal and athwart the bore (pics would help a lot). They'll go from left to right as seen from the breech.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 02:14 PM #5
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I'm going to assume we are talking an AR, take a 1/16" roll pin punch supporting the barrel and sight solidly, tap them out doesn't matter from which side as the pin's aren't tapered. They do bisect the barrel which will have two channels cut in it. You will then need to remove the flash hider and muscle the base off. You will find that under it the barrel is not parked, are you replacing it with something different? You really don’t need any heat just patients. Good luck! And remember support!
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Old February 16th, 2009, 02:31 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carryaglock View Post
I'm going to assume we are talking an AR, take a 1/16" roll pin punch supporting the barrel and sight solidly, tap them out doesn't matter from which side as the pin's aren't tapered.
Assuming we are talking about a standard factory installed mil-spec AR-15 front sight base, this is incorrect, the pins ARE tapered and must come out from a specific direction. A roll pin punch, with the projecting tip, is not the right tool for the job, and will be immediately ruined if used thus. They are solid taper pins, not roll pins, and closer to 1/8" at the small end.
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They do bisect the barrel which will have two channels cut in it. You will then need to remove the flash hider and muscle the base off. You will find that under it the barrel is not parked, are you replacing it with something different? You really don’t need any heat just patients. Good luck! And remember support!
The part about solid support, such as a steel bench block, is quite important. I have had to apply gentle heat and penetrating oil to get some of these pins loose, they are often in there tightly enough to damage a Starrett pin punch.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 02:37 PM #7
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When you talk about heat, do you men a small propane handheld torch? Or are you talking something hotter, IE: Acetylene?
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Old February 16th, 2009, 03:22 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdjamesd View Post
I want to remove my front site base. I had 1 guy take a stab at it, and it didn't even budge. Doe anybody know a local smith that could take care of this for me? I'm trying to gte it done by this Friday for the group shoot.

Thanks.

This might help - toward the bottom of the page

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782
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Old February 16th, 2009, 04:57 PM #9
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+1 to what Ed Shell said. If you don't have the right tools and/or don't have experience working on stuff like this, don't try to do it yourself. I suggest you call Rich at Fulton Armory and plead your case with him. I know they've tightened up on walk-in stuff, but they might make an exception for you. You might check with Dan at Gun Connection to see if he has pulled FSBs and if he has, I'm sure he would take care of you.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 05:07 PM #10
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Also- Are you planning on replacing it with a low profile gas block or railed gas block? If you've never done this before it can be tricky. You need the proper sized roll pin punch to knock out the gas tube roll pin. You then need to properly line up the gas port in the barrel with the gas port in the block and secure the block with what most likely will be set screws. You also need to ensure you have the gas port in the gas tube properly aligned in the block and repin that with a roll pin. If you don't get it right it will be readily apparent when your gun will not cycle due to lack of gas. The good thing about getting Fulton to do it is that they can test fire it right there to ensure it is cycling properly. Good luck.
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