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Old April 25th, 2018, 05:19 PM #71
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To add to the confusion, I went with the Amtac in 30 (still waiting for NFA branch to provide service after cashing my check...) ; primary host is an M&P10 and I was like the idea of minimizing blowback and the secondary host is for my .30-30 TC carbine to hunt with where I like the idea of minimizing length (although good for the M&P too).

I think someone mentioned already best can for the buck is a .22... If you’re here like everything else, one isn’t enough. Do due diligence & take the plunge. Good luck.
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Old April 26th, 2018, 12:49 PM #72
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Originally Posted by Dovk0802 View Post
To add to the confusion, I went with the Amtac in 30 (still waiting for NFA branch to provide service after cashing my check...) ; primary host is an M&P10 and I was like the idea of minimizing blowback and the secondary host is for my .30-30 TC carbine to hunt with where I like the idea of minimizing length (although good for the M&P too).

I think someone mentioned already best can for the buck is a .22... If you’re here like everything else, one isn’t enough. Do due diligence & take the plunge. Good luck.
I really want to try out an Amtac can. I don't know what part of Maryland you are in, but would love to meet up and exchange notes at the range when you get it in and mounted.
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Old May 23rd, 2018, 12:13 PM #73
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I’m in Bethesda & it’ll probably be fall; I’ll post review.
My 1895 Chilean 7.62NATO Scout (yes, it’s an antique not a “firearm”) has a conjugal visit:
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Old May 24th, 2018, 12:53 PM #74
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My centerfire cans are Thunder Beast. They have virtually no POI shift between the can and no can.

I am not a fan of the twist lock QD, as most seem to have significant POI shift. The Thunder Beast uses a brake or flash suppressor that the can threads into. Coarser threads than the barrel, so more robust, and faster to attach remove.

For rimfire, I got a Gemtech. Cheaper than the Sparrow/Spectre, and works fine.
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Old May 24th, 2018, 02:15 PM #75
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Check out the "Rugged .30 cal. They provide great customer service & lifetime warranty
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Old September 11th, 2018, 08:48 PM #76
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Originally Posted by Hawkeye View Post
The muzzle brake isn't bad at all. It's cheap to have a pro do it, but if you have a Magpul BEV block, or a barrel clamping block for your vise you can do it yourself easily. Rugged gives you a shim kit (do not use a crush washer on a muzzle device for a suppressor) and you'll need a thin wrench. If you do the flash hider it's incredibly simple because they don't need to be timed. If you do the brake, they need to be timed, but you just figure out how many shims you need, and then put a couple of drops of rocksett on the threads and torque it down.
To revisit this, I think I'm going to have a shop install the Rugged brake. I think!!

It looks pretty easy to do but all the videos I've watched are with brand new barrels. I don't want to bend anything and I have read some horror stories of people bending their uppers or barrels trying to wrench on and off muzzle devices. I do have the BEV block but not thin wrenches or the torque attachment I read about on another thread. Is it absolutely necessary to know how many pounds of torque you are using on it or can you just tighten it until it doesn't move anymore? I've watched enough videos where they just use an armorers wrench without a specific number of foot pounds. I'm more worried about bending something trying to get the old one off that is probably fused on there pretty tight from use.

https://ruggedsuppressors.com/wp-con...structions.pdf

Anyone recommend a good gunsmith in the Frederick or Montgomery county area who knows what they are doing to put on a Rugged Micro30 brake?

Last edited by pilot25; September 12th, 2018 at 02:22 PM.
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Old September 12th, 2018, 02:11 PM #77
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If you're using Rocksett, I doubt absolute torque matters a whole lot. You do want to use a barrel vise or a BEV block, especially if the muzzle device requires more than a little force to come off.
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Old September 12th, 2018, 02:46 PM #78
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Engage would be a place to look into.
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Old September 12th, 2018, 02:50 PM #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilot25 View Post
It looks pretty easy to do but all the videos I've watched are with brand new barrels. I don't want to bend anything and I have read some horror stories of people bending their uppers or barrels trying to wrench on and off muzzle devices. I do have the BEV block but not thin wrenches or the torque attachment I read about on another thread.
If you've got a BEV block and an iota of sense you can do this at home.

This is the set of wrenches that Rugged recommended to me when I asked them about this a few months back:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HZQW0Y

Unless it was put on there by a monkey (and that's not totally impossible) your old muzzle device will likely come off without any drama at all. Put your upper on the BEV block, put the wrench on there and pop it loose. If you're worried you're pushing too hard, then you can always stop.

Quote:
Is it absolutely necessary to know how many pounds of torque you are using on it or can you just tighten it until it doesn't move anymore?
Ideally? Yes. Realistically? You'll likely be fine if you use a wrench and tighten it until it's nice and tight. It's hard to over-torque something that much with a wrench this short.

Quote:
I'm more worried about bending something trying to get the old one off that is probably fused on there pretty tight from use.
You might be surprised how easily the old one comes loose. As I said before, you can always just stop if it doesn't come off easily.

Timing the brake is dead simple, too. You thread it on there and see how it lines up. You add shims until it's juuuust a little off on the "loose" side when it's hand tight. Then you tighten it on there with the wrench to make sure it'll all line up nicely. Then take it back off, make sure the threads are degreased, put a few drops of rocksett on it, and thread it back on and tighten until it's aligned and snug.
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Old September 12th, 2018, 05:31 PM #80
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Another quick note. Get a Giessele alignment rod (or split the cost with some friends). When I stepped into the suppressor world three years ago, I put mounts on everything I had. I had one rifle (Mossberg MVP) where the threads were not aligned to the bore and the alignment rod would hit on the end cap. Sent the rifle into Mossberg to get rebarreled.

Also, know decision has been made, but another plug for Rugged. I have both a Surge and Razor. First day shooting the Surge, I did not get it properly tightened on my Tavor. Bang and suppressor went 10 yds down range. Called Rugged at 7PM to leave message. They picked up phone, did not laugh at me, and sent me a return label that night. Got the can repaired back in two weeks with new end cap and new muzzle device. I am a Rugged customer for life. In fact, just started the process for a Micro 30, Obsidian 9, and Obsidian 45 to go with my Surge and Razor.
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