Trigger connect made it worse!??

Alib94 · Feb 24, 2019

So my glock 19 gen4, pulls at 5lb avg,

I ordered ghost in with complete spring kit,

And it made it worse!???

With everything installed its avg at 9lb
And

Ghost connector
And longer spring 7lb

And ghost connetor
Shorter spring 9lb

If i run just ghost connector and stock everything else, its avg at 7lb!?

It’s supposed to be 3.5lb!?????

Help is appreciated

John from MD · Feb 24, 2019

I haven't carried or played with a Glock in over 15 years but, I remember playing with connector and springs and the trigger gauge never really told me anything. It was how the trigger felt that made the difference. For carrying, I used the stock connector and a New York spring (orange) and I actually liked it so much I started using it in IDPA and actually shot faster. What I noticed was the heavier spring actually pushed my finger to the reset faster and that cut my times down.

I would say you need to mix and match until the feel is good for you rather than go by the advertising claims.

Just my .02.

Mark75H · Feb 24, 2019

The difference between gunsmithing and plug and play parts changing

Docster · Feb 24, 2019

Don't have any experience with the Ghost connector but with the G19 Polymer 80's I've built I have a noticeably improved trigger pull and crisper reset with the Lone Wolf 3.5# Connector and 6# trigger spring on the OEM Glock trigger. Saw many recommendations for that combo and many complaints about the Ghost connectors

davsco · Feb 24, 2019

i've never swapped triggers, but have swapped connectors and related springs and it' always been better though i never measured. maybe something binding? gen 4 vs 5 incompatibility (if that is a thing). maybe that trigger safety thingie isn't disengaging smoothly? try the springs and connector with the stock trigger and see what happens. also, is the spring that goes to the connector in right, easy to get that one backwards?

John from MD · Feb 24, 2019

Mark75H said:
The difference between gunsmithing and plug and play parts changing

Errr, there isn't any "gunsmithing" work needed on a Glock. Knowledge gained in an Armoror's class, which I never attended, is all you need to maintain and modify them.

As you can see, many Glock owners now build and modify their own glocks. I'm willing to bet most never went to an armorers class.

Now, if you want to talk fitting 1911 rails, welding and cutting lugs, welding and milling barrel hoods and ejection ports, now we are talking about "gunsmithing".

clandestine · Feb 24, 2019

Connectors need to have a certain amount of tension to work right. Too much tension will cause heavy pull.

The trigger bar and connector often need to be polished to get a decent pull.

Overall, 3.5# connectors suck. They make the trigger pull a lighter, but mushy one stage trigger.

Where the factory connector and some stoning and polish work with some spring changes will result in a good 4.5# trigger (2 stage) that's dead reliable.

Aluminum triggers can cut some weight off but aluminum trigger can get hot on extended shoots.

Alib94 · Feb 24, 2019

I also polished all the metal parts,

Trigger bar, trigger connector, anything i saw that was silver lol

Mark75H · Feb 24, 2019

John from MD said:
Errr, there isn't any "gunsmithing" work needed on a Glock. Knowledge gained in an Armoror's class, which I never attended, is all you need to maintain and modify them.

As you can see, many Glock owners now build and modify their own glocks. I'm willing to bet most never went to an armorers class.

Now, if you want to talk fitting 1911 rails, welding and cutting lugs, welding and milling barrel hoods and ejection ports, now we are talking about "gunsmithing".

I am certain you are right about most never having taken the Glock Armorer's class, but you are wrong about the armorer's class giving even a hint about improving via modification - I HAVE taken the class. All that is taught is how to disassemble and reassemble to make them reliable as shipped from the manufacturer.

John from MD · Feb 24, 2019

I stand corrected.

Laj · Mar 3, 2019

Firing pin spring
You have to change the firing pin spring along with those other parts.
Try all different combinations to find what’s right for you and TEST EXSTENSIVELY IN LIVE FIRE. If you add all those lower weight trigger parts and don’t change the firing pin spring, you’re still pulling the same weight in the spring. That’s what makes it “safe action” instead of single or double action. The trigger actually charges the striker. This is why people sometimes get light strikes after reducing glock trigger weight too far.

4guyz1stool · Mar 3, 2019

clandestine said:
Connectors need to have a certain amount of tension to work right. Too much tension will cause heavy pull.

The trigger bar and connector often need to be polished to get a decent pull.

Overall, 3.5# connectors suck. They make the trigger pull a lighter, but mushy one stage trigger.

Where the factory connector and some stoning and polish work with some spring changes will result in a good 4.5# trigger (2 stage) that's dead reliable.

Aluminum triggers can cut some weight off but aluminum trigger can get hot on extended shoots.

I agree. Why do people like the 3.5# connector? It makes the trigger feel like crap. Get a flat faced trigger, but dont mess with the connector or springs unless its a competition gun.

Magnumite · Mar 4, 2019

Except for a Ruger Mark II pistol, a Super Blackhawk, and a TC Contender almost all my handgun shooting was with double action revolvers for years. A large part of that was in double action mode. So the Glock trigger to me is not i tolerable as produced. It is no Smith and Wesson DA pull but useable. The one Glock I do have is intended for GSSF shooting so must maintain all stock components for the stick catagory. I polished all the parts which were friction surfaces. This was the disconnector, connector (sear?) and the striker lug. I also shortened the striker lug a very small amount to get a decent rolling trigger. Now it is an okay abbreviated DA trigger.

Bountied · Mar 4, 2019

I agree with Laj, but Be careful with the striker spring. I installed a new connector, heavier trigger spring, and lighter striker spring and the striker would slip off the "sear" when racked. I never live fired it because I was worried it would go full auto that way. I found a combo of trigger/striker springs that dropped the weight, was smooth, and has been 100% reliable. Just try different combos until you find one you like. For note I used the Wolf connector and wolf springs.

I found that the striker spring alone made the most dramatic difference in trigger pull. If the spring is too light you may get light strikes, you could get a tungsten striker to help with that but they are pricey and not needed if you find a good combination of springs.

Trigger connect made it worse!??

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

Alib94

Member

John from MD

American Patriot

Mark75H

MD Wear&Carry Instructor

Docster

Ultimate Member

davsco

Ultimate Member

John from MD

American Patriot

clandestine

AR-15 Savant

Alib94

Member

Mark75H

MD Wear&Carry Instructor

John from MD

American Patriot

Laj

Active Member

4guyz1stool

Banned

Magnumite

Ultimate Member

Bountied

Ultimate Member

Users who are viewing this thread

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Latest threads

Forum statistics

Share this page