installing an asymmetric muzzle brake

Sam Salvati · Oct 4, 2014

Getting set to put on this brake on my savage, the holes along the flat are on one side only. Is there a trick to get everything to line up right? I have a crush washer, but my gut says even when compressed it won't be located right. shown in the photos is the brake hand snugged to the washer, still has 3/4" of a rotation to line up right.

I have a lathe, turning a spacer to fit behind brake is not a big deal. Or should I trim some off the brake? do I need a crush washer?

how it should be:

how it is snugged down:

iH8DemLibz · Oct 4, 2014

If you remove material from the end of the brake, it will allow the brake holes to index more. Remove a small amount of material and try it. You will see the holes index more each time you screw it down. Stop removing material when the holes are a few degrees before top-dead-center. Apply some Loctite Purple or Blue and torque it down until the holes are at top-dead-center.

Work slowly. With fine threads it doesn't take much material removal to get the job done. It is easy to remove too much material and over index. Then you're right back where you started. If that's a 1/2"-28 thread, then one revolution is about 1/32" of advancement per when it's being screwed on.

I'm sure someone will come along shortly with other advice, but this is how I do it and it works every time.

Good luck.

Sticky · Oct 4, 2014

Libz way works great, you can also get a peel washer (peelable layers) that allows you to 'shim' it into position. No machining req'd.

*edit* and no, you don't need a crush washer if'n you loctite it on when assembled. Many of my muzzle devices that I have use no crush washer.

You will get some rotation with the crush washer, but.. honestly, I don't know if it will be 3/4 of a turn. I haven't installed enough of em.. lol

Sticky · Oct 4, 2014

3/4 of a rotation is about .025"(assuming 1/2-28 threads). Take tiny cuts.. lol

iH8DemLibz · Oct 4, 2014

Sticky said:
3/4 of a rotation is about .025"(assuming 1/2-28 threads). Take tiny cuts.. lol

.02678, but .025 will work too.

Sam Salvati · Oct 4, 2014

Thanks Fellas, excellent advice. Its a 308, and the threads are 5/8"-24.

Sticky · Oct 4, 2014

iH8DemLibz said:
.02678, but .025 will work too.

I always estimate cuts a tad short.. usually works better that way.. :lol2:

iH8DemLibz · Oct 4, 2014

If 5/8"-24, then were talking about .0312498 inches worth of material removal.

Sticky · Oct 4, 2014

Sam Salvati said:
Thanks Fellas, excellent advice. Its a 308, and the threads are 5/8"-24.

Now you're up to .03125", but I"m gonna tell ya about .030.. LMAO

Sticky · Oct 4, 2014

iH8DemLibz said:
If 5/8"-24, then were talking about .0312498 inches worth of material removal.

Okay, I gotta know.. what the hell kind of lathe do you have that will cut that close? :lol2:

Sam Salvati · Oct 4, 2014

Thats way thinner then a RHCH don't know if I have the precision for that

To preserve the finish on the brake, could I slowly sneak up on it by removing material from the crush washer?

ThawMyTongue · Oct 4, 2014

I would just take the easy way out and use peel/shim washers instead of potentially screwing up my muzzle device, but that's just me:

http://www.nokick.com/Shim_Kit_5_8_p/shim-5-8.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Gemtech-Preci...F8&qid=1412451095&sr=1-4&keywords=peel+washer

Sticky · Oct 4, 2014

Sam Salvati said:
Thats way thinner then a RHCH don't know if I have the precision for that

To preserve the finish on the brake, could I slowly sneak up on it by removing material from the crush washer?

With a crush washer, you are supposed to achieve a set torque value, so the rotation is based on reaching that range. It's not real predictable, though someone that has installed enough flash hiders with crush washers may chime in on that. I am thinking I got half a turn or even a little more on the couple I've installed with crush washers to get the needed torque.

Some brakes (many) do not recommend using a crush washer, as it 'can' affect alignment to the exit hole on the brake. Most of mine are installed that way and the one I have that is timed on my JP 308 bbl was done by JP.. lol

There are also shim packs that I have seen available, probably Midway or Brownell, you could go that route too, but if it were me, I'm probably turn it down as needed to time it and loctite it in place.

Sticky · Oct 4, 2014

You could just turn out to the diameter of the bbl if the brake is a larger OD at the point where they will meet, that way you would almost 'crown' the brake to fit the barrel and you wouldn't see the cut when installed..

Sam Salvati · Oct 4, 2014

Matt, thats good advice also.

I will try my hand at turning it down, it was only a 25$ brake so no harm or foul if I screw it up.

Off to the shop it is then.

ThawMyTongue · Oct 4, 2014

Sam Salvati said:
Matt, thats good advice also.

I will try my hand at turning it down, it was only a 25$ brake so no harm or foul if I screw it up.

Off to the shop it is then.

Oh $25? Do what you will then.

I probably wouldn't hesitate to even use a *gasp* dremel *gasp* on it then. :innocent0

Sam Salvati · Oct 4, 2014

OK.

bored a little step in the threads to clear the abruptly ending threads on the barrel.

cleaning the new end of the threads

turn off 1 RHCH

then do it again because I went too far the first time of course LOL

then taper to the transition:

then hope the fit looks a little better once you paint it because your calipers didn't have batteries so you undersized it a little bit

Which it does (trust me)

Sticky · Oct 5, 2014

Nice work, looks great!! (that's part of the reason that I always have a set of ol fashioned dial calipers on hand... lol) (probably even a set of verniers too)

Well done! :thumbsup:

smdub · Oct 5, 2014

Look good!

South Bend 9?

iH8DemLibz · Oct 5, 2014

Looks good.

installing an asymmetric muzzle brake

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