Different guns take oil differently?

Skipjacks · Sep 24, 2020

Does oil dry up differently on different guns?

I have 2 firearms in the same safe

One is 20 years old and very worn in. I can oil that one and put it in the safe and it will still be range ready lubricated a year from now. All steel 1911

One is less than 1 year old and I can oil it and a couple weeks later it is dry. Normal aluminum steel mix AR

I am using Hoppes 9 on both. They sit 3 inches apart.

I cannot figure this out for the life of me

Should I be using something else on the aluminum rifle?

I am not talking about a surface protective coat. I am talking about the wear parts. The bolt carrier goes in wet....dries out. On the 1911 the slide goes in wet...stays that way

rbird7282 · Sep 24, 2020

Most likely it’s the way they’re stored. Is the rifle vertical? The pistol?
Oil will migrate to other places.
When you say wet, just how wet?
I lube my AR’s according to the old SOTAR method of Mobil 1 synthetic grease in certain places on the bolt carrier and bolt followed by dipping the entire thing in Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Take it out and hold it until it stops dripping and then put it in the gun.
Never have an issue with it drying out, or with proper functioning.
I used to do several drops of gun oil and they would tend to dry out over time.

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bfoosh006 · Sep 24, 2020

Odd... I'd try another product.

I use ALG Go-Juice for my storage oil and lube.

slsc98 · Sep 24, 2020

Skipjacks said:
Does oil dry up differently on different guns?

I am using Hoppes 9 on both. They sit 3 inches apart.

I would definitely use something other than Hoppes 9 (I avoid leaving any “excess” - even a film - of Hoppes 9 on any firearm.

With the exception of the kerosene in it (equal to ethyl alcohol no less!) I don’t interpret the MSDS for Hoppes 9 to be a “gun oil”, at all.

But, I skipped a lot of chemistry classes (afternoon bonka donk! :cool:

https://www.copquest.com/knowledgebase/MSDS_Hoppes_No_9_Solvent.pdf

Doing some more digging, I see that since I started using other products, Hoppes is all over the place with no end of “products” in the Hoppes “line” (can’t say that I blame them given a brand loyalty most companies would kill for! :-)

Anyhoo, "Lubricating Oil" is 100% white minerial oil, while "Hoppe's Lubricating Oil" (not sure the difference, but it is listed separately from Lubricating Oil) is hydrotreated naphthenic distillate.

As other posters have mentioned, there really are better products out there, not for lubrication as well as preservation/protection ...

Doco Overboard · Sep 24, 2020

The oilologist would no for sure but its probably just the evaporation rate is different between the the different metals or the texture of the finish itself.
+ Hoppes has kerosene in it which probably affects the ability of the oil to remain fluid or attached to the structure of the metal for a specific amount of time.

Jed195 · Sep 24, 2020

Mobil one synthetic...

Someone more in the know will be along to correct me but that seemed the be all end all around here a while back.

willtill · Sep 24, 2020

I like G96 Gun Treatment.

https://www.amazon.com/G96-1055P-Complete-Triple-Action-Treatment/dp/B0000DD5TLcleaner/

babalou · Sep 24, 2020

yup

rbird7282 said:
Most likely it’s the way they’re stored. Is the rifle vertical? The pistol?
Oil will migrate to other places.
When you say wet, just how wet?
I lube my AR’s according to the old SOTAR method of Mobil 1 synthetic grease in certain places on the bolt carrier and bolt followed by dipping the entire thing in Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Take it out and hold it until it stops dripping and then put it in the gun.
Never have an issue with it drying out, or with proper functioning.
I used to do several drops of gun oil and they would tend to dry out over time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

that is what I do, as well

sxs · Sep 24, 2020

willtill said:
I like G96 Gun Treatment.

https://www.amazon.com/G96-1055P-Complete-Triple-Action-Treatment/dp/B0000DD5TLcleaner/

That is what Scott at Scott's Gunsmithing prefers.

Sirex · Sep 24, 2020

My parkerized guns appear to absorb oil.

Doco Overboard · Sep 24, 2020

Sirex said:
My parkerized guns appear to absorb oil.

When you see that antique military greenish hued park finish that's an extremely light-light olive from being dry and then again oiled its amazing how many shades it will turn to a rich dark deep flawless even green.

randomuser · Sep 25, 2020

I just use clp. If it's good enough for the Marine Corps it's good enough for my civilian gun. Military guns get abused and used more than our civilian guns and the clp keeps them working for a long long time. I know there are a ton of products out there but the clp stuff is tested more than most products that people use. In salt water when swimming with a rifle we'd spray the entire rifle down with a silicone spray. That's the only other thing that I have ever put in a gun.

JamesDong · Sep 25, 2020

All things being equal......The "old" one has more wear and bigger gaps. Gaps retain oil better than a smooth no gap surface.

My best guess.

somd_mustangs · Sep 25, 2020

willtill said:
I like G96 Gun Treatment.

https://www.amazon.com/G96-1055P-Complete-Triple-Action-Treatment/dp/B0000DD5TLcleaner/

sxs said:
That is what Scott at Scott's Gunsmithing prefers.

I switched over to G96 a while back, mostly for cleaning and storage.
It also comes in a bottle, I use up the aerosol cans pretty quick.
Hoppes #9 isn't a lubricant at all and shouldn't be left on a gun IMHO.
They both smell great though

Pinecone · Sep 25, 2020

randomuser said:
I just use clp. If it's good enough for the Marine Corps it's good enough for my civilian gun. Military guns get abused and used more than our civilian guns and the clp keeps them working for a long long time. I know there are a ton of products out there but the clp stuff is tested more than most products that people use. In salt water when swimming with a rifle we'd spray the entire rifle down with a silicone spray. That's the only other thing that I have ever put in a gun.

And when parts wear out, they are replaced for free.

I know the marksman ship units (I think both Army and Marines) have STOPPED using CLP due to excessive wear.

Skipjacks · Sep 25, 2020

Okay so Hopped is bad....learn something new everyday

If I switch lubricant can I just apply the new one or do I need to fully strip the old lube off first because they won't mix?

(My logic comes from living bike chains. You always have to do a thorough cleaning when switching lubes because none of them mix)

rbird7282 · Sep 25, 2020

Skipjacks said:
Okay so Hopped is bad....learn something new everyday

If I switch lubricant can I just apply the new one or do I need to fully strip the old lube off first because they won't mix?

(My logic comes from living bike chains. You always have to do a thorough cleaning when switching lubes because none of them mix)

Personally I would clean it first before switching lubricants

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woodline · Sep 25, 2020

I just finished up a 3 week shooting course. The facility had lots of random lubricants to choose from. I decided to do an informal comparison between a bunch of different ones and noticed no real difference in how they lubricated the firearms we were using. Had lots of entertaining malfunctions with ARs, AKs, various glocks, you name it.

Ended up mostly using Ballistol because it smells like black licorice.

28Shooter · Sep 25, 2020

I used to use Remoil which was a very thin, light oil. The new stuff seems more like 3-in-1 oil so I switched to Ballistol and it seems to work very well.

willtill · Sep 25, 2020

Skipjacks said:
Okay so Hopped is bad....learn something new everyday

If I switch lubricant can I just apply the new one or do I need to fully strip the old lube off first because they won't mix?

(My logic comes from living bike chains. You always have to do a thorough cleaning when switching lubes because none of them mix)

There is nothing wrong with Hoppes if using it only as a cleaner. Breaks up carbon very well if you let it sit and work.

Different guns take oil differently?

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