Stealth Arms 80% 1911 No Mill Needed w/ Promo Code

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  • jjones88

    Active Member
    Apr 4, 2013
    568
    Sykesville
    A problem I'm having is the hammer follows the slide and doesn't lock back but it will lock back manually.

    I had the same problem... I fixed mine by adjusted the sear spring legs until I got adequate pressure on the sear. However, I knew to fix it that way since I purchased my sear, disconnector, hammer as a set.

    Not sure if you purchased a set or the Sarco kit, so it could also be the sear / hammer mating surface (best way to describe). Follow John's advice on the checks
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,561
    Harford County, Maryland
    For a long link check you do the following. With the side off of the frame, insert the barrel and link into the frame and put the slide lock through the link. Push the barrel hard down and back against the frame. The barrel should fit all the way into the frame recess. If it does not, the link is too long.

    This is a simple as I can make it but it isn't everything that can be regarding link fit. For instance, the lugs on the barrel may need to be filed instead of the link being too long. ( Brownells sells a tool)
    For a short link, you can remove metal on the link if you know where instead of changing it.

    I suggest you try to get it right by changing parts unless you are a machinist or have good mechanical skills.

    Brownells has links.

    Additionally. When the barrel is all the way out of battery and seated properly in the frame, you should see at least 1/32 of an inch of frame behind the barrel. A little more is ok but less will lead to jams. Don't try to adjust this space until the link is properly fitted.

    Regards,

    John

    Match barrels are typically a larger chamber end diameter than standard fit barrels. Testing for a long link this way may work outside the slide but would not allow for a too high barrel bed. This would allow the barrel and slide lugs to crash. I would suggest following up with the Schuemann barrel timing tests:
    http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=262344
     

    Atlasarmory

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 2, 2009
    3,359
    Glen Burnie
    Finished

    1911.jpg
     

    Jaybeez

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Patriot Picket
    May 30, 2006
    6,392
    Darlington MD
    Gotcha. The jig should work for all 80% lowers, yes?

    some 80s have different things left undone, like ejector leg holes and such.

    at least one person here used a steel tactical machining 80% frame. maybe he will chime in and say how long it took.
     

    WeaponsCollector

    EXTREME GUN OWNER
    Mar 30, 2009
    12,120
    Southern MD
    Here are a few checks to perform.

    Hold the trigger back in a normal hold and pull back the slide and let go. The hammer should not fall.
    Release the trigger and you should feel and hear a click as the disconnector engages the sear.
    Release the grip safety and pull the trigger. The hammer should still be cocked.
    Put the manual safety on and pull the trigger and the hammer should still stay cocked.
    Take the safety off and pull the trigger and the hammer should fall.

    Hold the trigger in again while cycling the slide. After the slide goes forward, continue to hold the trigger in but rotate your hand so it comes off the grip safety. Release the trigger and the grip safety should pop out.

    These are standard checks for the 1911 pistol. Let me know what happens when you do each one. PM will work if you don't want to tie up this tread.

    John

    My slide is a Ciener .22 conversion slide.
    Passed everything except:
    "Hold the trigger back in a normal hold and pull back the slide and let go. The hammer should not fall."
    The hammer follows the slide and stops at half cock.
    Thinking I should slightly shave down the sear to fix this problem.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,731
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Try bending the leg of the spring that sits on the bottom of the sear. When you bend it, be gentle and follow the existing curve. A little goes a long way and it also affects the weight of the trigger pull so don't get rushed.

    Then try the test again.

    John
     

    WeaponsCollector

    EXTREME GUN OWNER
    Mar 30, 2009
    12,120
    Southern MD
    Try bending the leg of the spring that sits on the bottom of the sear. When you bend it, be gentle and follow the existing curve. A little goes a long way and it also affects the weight of the trigger pull so don't get rushed.

    Then try the test again.

    John

    It's better, but the hammer still doesn't lock back half the time.
     

    WeaponsCollector

    EXTREME GUN OWNER
    Mar 30, 2009
    12,120
    Southern MD
    Went ahead and reshaped the sear with fine sandpaper and now it seems to work fine.
    Only thing left to do now is shoot some rounds out of it!
     

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    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,731
    Socialist State of Maryland
    It's better, but the hammer still doesn't lock back half the time.


    This may be either of two things. 1) the frame holes or sear and/or hammer pins are out of spec. Tolerance stacking comes into play here. Oversize pins can be bought from Brownells.

    2) the sear and hammer are out of spec or the hammer hooks have been stoned too much.

    You need to take the sear and hammer out and mount them on the outside of the frame to look at the geometry. The best way to do this is with a sear block. However, you can do it using the side of the pistol to a degree. you pull the frame apart and mount the sear and hammer outside the frame using the existing pins. This will show you if your hammer hooks have been cut too short.

    I would measure the pins and pin holes first because if they are out of spec, you will get an incorrect presentation from the hammer and sear geometry.

    Regards,

    John
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,561
    Harford County, Maryland
    At this point in time a decent sear jig, 6" India and 4" to 6" Arkansas stone would be prudent. The Ed Brown or Marvel jugs are good. Follow the instructions and you'll be happy with the results.
     

    pilotguy299

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 26, 2010
    1,809
    FredNeck County, MD
    Fired the gun today for the first time, 250 rounds and less than 10 jams.
    I'm thinking I need to shoot a couple hundred more to break it in.

    I had the same issue with my first one. Although the slide felt like it was moving smoothly, it wasn't moving fast enough to fully load a round every time. A little more work on the slide and rails fixed it.
     

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