Two questions on case prep (.223)

Pinecone · Jan 26, 2016

Handling does not remove lube, unless you wash your hands after every round. It may remove it on the first few rounds you handle, but then your fingers are lubed and you stop removing lube.

Your choice to remove it or not, but continuing to fire lubed cases can cause damage to your firearms.

Pinecone · Jan 26, 2016

Jaybeez said:
Nu Finish is recommended because as far as the brass, powder, and primer is concerned, it is inert. meaning that it does not effect them.

many (non firearm) brass specific polishes contain chemicals like ammonia that can effect the brass in negetive ways. you shouldn't use them.

I don't understand the desire to use car products when the reloading specific products are readily available and not expensive.

They may be the same thing, but it is not like you are saving a huge amount of money.

hi3cho · Jan 27, 2016

I have been seriously slacking on reloading over the past two years. Just like the OP I saw a few recommendations for the Nufinish polish which is a lot cheaper then the specialized stuff. I also made my own case lube for next to nothing. I guess when you are reloading and trying to reduce cost based on volume it leads to people finding ways to save money every chance they get.

Pinecone · Jan 27, 2016

Nu Finish is $8.95 for 11 ounces.

Dillon polish is $8.95 for 8 ounces.

Not a LOT cheaper.

And a bottle of the Dillon lasts me for years.

wgttgw · Jan 27, 2016

The savings in using something like Nu Finish or making case lube is in finding it readily available when you need and it works just as good. Versus driving 45-60 miles or having to place an order online.

Sharpeneddark · Jan 30, 2016

I've been depriming/wet tumbling first, sizing, then dry tumble with polish as the last step before loading the cases. There is definitely a residue left behind with sizing lube and I like to put as few chemicals next to a heat source, or in a fire, as possible.

Jmurman · Jan 30, 2016

I just finished a large batch of 450 30.06 cases. I use Maguires cleaner wax in walnut media, then (ok I'm old school) use RCBS case lube with pad, recap, resize...then I hand wipe each case as I clean primer pockets and inspect each one. Hands are sore but I can honestly say I've seen each case closely.

drive_accord_ingly · Feb 8, 2016

Sticky said:
...
Now back in the old days of the RCBS case lube pads, we'd size, then tumble, but not anymore..

I think that was BC,right? Before Carbide dies were available.

Nu Finish in corn cob... Bling-tastic ammo to impress your homies on the range!

Seriously, that stuff does work and doesn't mess up the brassi.e. Cracked brass. Just never-EVER use Brasso. Leave that sh*t for your Class A's and inspection buckles.

John from MD · Feb 9, 2016

Leave that sh*t for your Class A's and inspection buckles.[/QUOTE]

Boy that takes me back a looonng time. Don't forget the lighter fluid to burn off the plastic coating on the belt buckles. :lol:

John

ourway77 · Feb 9, 2016

I have used a old stick of Jewelers Rouge the red I had on hand worked good for a long time never tried car wax but have used store bought polish just for cleaning brass

drive_accord_ingly · Feb 9, 2016

John from MD said:
Leave that sh*t for your Class A's and inspection buckles.

Boy that takes me back a looonng time. Don't forget the lighter fluid to burn off the plastic coating on the belt buckles. :lol:

John[/QUOTE]

...and those firecans, cotton balls, and the Kiwi!! G0ddam 'cruits!

alucard0822 · Feb 9, 2016

I tumble, lube, size/decap, tumble, trim, prime, charge, seat, crimp. Use a single stage primarily, sometimes run the last 3 steps on a progressive if I am doing a large batch. First tumbling is for a few hours, brass looks good, easier to find cracks or flaws, and keeps my dies clean. For lube I use oneshot for .223, just put 100 or so pieces in a small carboard box, and spray as I shake them around, larger cases get liquid lube and a pad, being more prone to stick. 2nd tumbling is only for 30min, just to get the lube off, as others have said it can add pressure to a bolt, and is messy to handle. I use corncob media, I trim with Lee gauges, the pin pushes any media stuck in the primer pocket out. Nu finish is technically a polymer based paint sealer, doesn't have anything in it that would harm brass, but it also isn't abrasive, so might not clean as fast or as well as abrasive polish, but it works well enough. Would be cool if it added enough of a film to prevent corrosion, but you would likely have to add a lat, not sure how much if any protection there is with a capful.

kalister1 · Feb 9, 2016

teratos said:
With Nu-finish, do you only need to wax once a year?

AND, my ammo still looks good after 100 car washes.

jjones88 · Feb 9, 2016

Been using Nu finish for years, cleaning my brass is all that it is good for

John from MD · Feb 9, 2016

jjones88 said:
Been using Nu finish for years, cleaning my brass is all that it is good for

What, you don't believe all those ads about No Finish on late night TV. :rolleyes:

John

R81 · Feb 9, 2016

Nu Finish is a car polish, not a car wax.

Tracker · Feb 11, 2016

jjones88 said:
Been using Nu finish for years, cleaning my brass is all that it is good for

I used that stuff on my truck in the early 90s. One time I put on four coats to see how long it would last. Well it didn't last any longer than any of the others but man that truck was FREAKY shiny.

jjones88 · Feb 12, 2016

Tracker said:
I used that stuff on my truck in the early 90s. One time I put on four coats to see how long it would last. Well it didn't last any longer than any of the others but man that truck was FREAKY shiny.

First polish / wax job I did on my camaro when I was 15 was with Nu-finish. I did it all by hand (no buffer) and the effort I had to use was insane. Took hours to get that stuff off my hood. Saw no real difference in shine. Switched to the Maguiers system and never looked back.

But on topic, a scoop of that and a small amount of mineral spirits cleans the ugliest of my brass pronto, so I keep the company in business and just keep it away from my vehicles

Two questions on case prep (.223)

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