.45's and weak wristing
- Thread starter Chevyman85
- Start date
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Chevyman85
Active Member
I'll certainly put some more rds through it and if the problem persists then I'll take it to a qualified smith to have it looked over. I initially thought I'd like a compact versus a full size but did not realize that they can be so temperamental. Once I get a chance to shoot the 226 them I suppose I'll have a better idea of wether its the gun or me. These are my first handguns so my experience is rather limited.
Thanks for all the replies. There's some good points/suggestions brought up that I'll look into.
Thanks for all the replies. There's some good points/suggestions brought up that I'll look into.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
Limp wristing is NOT a weak grip. It is having the wrist stiff enough to allow the action to work properly. If the wrist is not stiff enough, the gun recoils all together and the slide does not get the proper velocity to cleanly eject and chamber the next round.
Chevyman85
Active Member
I'm aware of the difference your pointing out and am actually talking about limp wristing. I say grip sometimes because its easier typing. My grip although deminished, is more than sufficient to pick up a gun and shoot it.
- Feb 17, 2011
- 14,024
This. When I first got my beretta after a couple hundred rounds at the range during a session I noticed ejection problems after I relaxed the wrist too much. if after firing most pistols if you see almost the full top the pistol you probably are limp wristing.
Lou45
R.I.P.
If NO steel cased ammo has been shot through it, the above ammo you stated (especially Fed Am Eagle) should have no problems running that gun jus' fine. Read next quoted post and have an experienced 1911 shooter do it for you with the two types of mentioned ammo. If problem persists with that person, it's almost certainly a gun problem.
SCARCQB
Get Opp my rawn, Plick!
Its a compact 1911... Add limp wristing and anemic ammo.
It will be a jam-o-matic
It will be a jam-o-matic
smokey
2A TEACHER
- Jan 31, 2008
- 31,500
here ya go..
.
...basically, you need enough recoil energy isolated in the slide for the gun to function. When the entire gun moves rearward, and especially re-vectors into a rotational force, that energy is bled off from the kinetic energy needed to cycle it. The mass of the frame gives resistance to rearward and upward travel just by it's inertia. The heavier the frame, the less sensitive it is to limp-wristing, all other factors being equal.
You've also bought a 1911 that's mutated from its original design so far, and then produced by a company that has a record of spotty QC, that it's likely to have malfunctions just from that. For a 1911, 4" is probably the smallest you want to go.
.
...basically, you need enough recoil energy isolated in the slide for the gun to function. When the entire gun moves rearward, and especially re-vectors into a rotational force, that energy is bled off from the kinetic energy needed to cycle it. The mass of the frame gives resistance to rearward and upward travel just by it's inertia. The heavier the frame, the less sensitive it is to limp-wristing, all other factors being equal.
You've also bought a 1911 that's mutated from its original design so far, and then produced by a company that has a record of spotty QC, that it's likely to have malfunctions just from that. For a 1911, 4" is probably the smallest you want to go.
Lou45
R.I.P.
Rem UMC, yes. However Fed Am Eagle is slightly hot.
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