Punched/Peened in Screw on SMLE - Ideas?

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  • Mar 13, 2013
    18
    Hello all, I rolled the dice on a SMLE on Gunbroker being sold from an estate. The good news is I seem to have lucked out and ended up with an all matching 1918 Enfield with a decent amount of original finish left and a remarkably shiny bore. It's got a lot of dust and grime, though, so I decided to disassemble the stock and give everything a good wiping down. I didn't get very far before discovering the bad news: for some reason, the side screw for the nose cap has been punched/peened in to prevent removal. The internet has not been forthcoming with answers, probably since I'm not using the right vocabulary.

    Has anyone got any ideas as to how I might be able to reverse this and get the screw out without absolutely mangling the area? The nose cap is numbered matching like the rest of the gun, so I really don't want to mess it up, but the screw looks to be easily replaceable...
     

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    Mar 13, 2013
    18
    I don't think so. I did manage to find a google image of the exact same thing on another SMLE though, so perhaps it was done sometimes as part of the Factory Through Repairs (the rifle is FTR marked). I can't imagine why, though, since removing the nose cap is the first step in disassembling the rifle...
     
    Mar 13, 2013
    18
    That's referred to as staking. Like a gas key on an AR

    Thanks for this, having the right term turned up a lot of threads on this, including one I'm reading now about the exact same screw on a SMLE. Seems like roll the dice with an impact drill, then if and when you strip the screw break out the easy-out.

    Looks like I better order that replacement screw.
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,581
    Harford County, Maryland
    Judging from the pics, the OP’s rifle has been apart at least once since there are two stake punches. The stake gets done on the screwhead slot displacing the metal over the slot’s bottom. Tape the surrounding area up. A couple gentle taps with a small punch or screwdriver on the swaged metal should allow the screw to loosen up easier. At any rate the screw should shear then push the swaged metal outward and upward. Forget the easy out.
     
    Mar 13, 2013
    18
    Judging from the pics, the OP’s rifle has been apart at least once since there are two stake punches. The stake gets done on the screwhead slot displacing the metal over the slot’s bottom. Tape the surrounding area up. A couple gentle taps with a small punch or screwdriver on the swaged metal should allow the screw to loosen up easier. At any rate the screw should shear then push the swaged metal outward and upward. Forget the easy out.

    Definitely will try this when I get home.
     

    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,411
    Hagerstown MD
    Yep, I tap a well fitting flat blade screw driver into the slot, then gentle tap the side of the tip into the stake indentation. It'll shift the stake out of the way and usually when reassembled the slot lines back up with the stake so simple tap with a small center punch locks it back in place.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    Just put a correctly fitted screw driver in the slot and turn it out. Better yet leave it alone if there is no need to remove it unless you have a burning desire to see whats underneath.
    If you must, make sure to make sure you pull the fore-end off before removing the butt-stock to avoid severe damage. It comes off straight downwards and then slightly to the rear at the same time so the draws don't become mangled up unnecessarily. In other words be careful not to pull downwards from the area up to the muzzle while rotating it down at the same time from the business end of the barrel.
     
    Mar 13, 2013
    18
    I managed to get the screw in question out as well as another staked screw on the trigger guard using a combination of the screwdriver tapping method you guys described and ballistol as a penetrating oil (I already intended to wipe everything down with ballistol). Cleaned everything up and I'm very pleased with the condition of the rifle.

    Of course, now when I dry-fire the rifle, it clicks and hangs on half-cock. It was doing this when it first arrived, then started behaving normally, and now it's back to it. Looks like this is typically caused by a worn trigger and sear. Since I've already got a few of you who know a thing about SMLEs, any thoughts?
     

    iH8DemLibz

    When All Else Fails.
    Apr 1, 2013
    25,396
    Libtardistan
    Now you know why they sold it.

    Did you ask if the rifle was 100% mechanically sound before bidding?

    If you did, you could try getting your money back.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    Sounds like the first or second trigger rib or the "bent" has been improperly adjusted in an attempt to improve the pull. Could also be a safety problem but I would have to think about that a little bit. A mismatched or maladjusted cocking piece could also be a culprit.
    The second trigger rib more than likely has been reduced to a insufficient height and is getting hung up on the second or safety milling of the cocking piece.
    You really have to love these rifles to get them exactly how they ought to be.
     

    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,411
    Hagerstown MD
    I managed to get the screw in question out as well as another staked screw on the trigger guard using a combination of the screwdriver tapping method you guys described and ballistol as a penetrating oil (I already intended to wipe everything down with ballistol). Cleaned everything up and I'm very pleased with the condition of the rifle.

    Of course, now when I dry-fire the rifle, it clicks and hangs on half-cock. It was doing this when it first arrived, then started behaving normally, and now it's back to it. Looks like this is typically caused by a worn trigger and sear. Since I've already got a few of you who know a thing about SMLEs, any thoughts?

    Well, look at the geometry and figure it out. Not like a bolt gun is rocket science. :)
     
    Mar 13, 2013
    18
    Now you know why they sold it.

    Did you ask if the rifle was 100% mechanically sound before bidding?

    If you did, you could try getting your money back.

    Nah, it was from an estate (about as as-is as it gets) and I got a very decent price for an all matching rifle ($450, nothing like the 'old days' but I missed that boat). I don't mind if it needs some mechanical TLC, in fact I'm honestly so into the SMLE right now I'm enjoying it as a learning experience.
     
    Mar 13, 2013
    18
    Sounds like the first or second trigger rib or the "bent" has been improperly adjusted in an attempt to improve the pull. Could also be a safety problem but I would have to think about that a little bit. A mismatched or maladjusted cocking piece could also be a culprit.
    The second trigger rib more than likely has been reduced to a insufficient height and is getting hung up on the second or safety milling of the cocking piece.
    You really have to love these rifles to get them exactly how they ought to be.

    Yes, I'm quickly learning that the SMLE is probably the most over-engineered military bolt gun in history, particularly between the finicky safety, the spring-floated pencil barrel, and the half-cock "feature" which seems to be at the root of a lot of FCG problems. I guess that's part of the fun though. I bought this as a collector's piece, not a match gun.

    Here's an old thread I found from someone who had the exact same issue (albeit under scarier circumstances, happened with a live round in the chamber)

    https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=153919&page=2

    They were successful in eliminating the problem by simply giving everything a good cleaning.

    I was much more focused on corrosion prevention when I did everything yesterday and didn't fully disassemble the FCG. I have a Wolff "rifle service pak" that arrived today with a new striker spring and extractor spring, I think I'll do a deep clean of the FCG while I'm in there tonight and see what happens.
     

    j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    Yes, I'm quickly learning that the SMLE is probably the most over-engineered military bolt gun in history, particularly between the finicky safety, the spring-floated pencil barrel, and the half-cock "feature" which seems to be at the root of a lot of FCG problems. I guess that's part of the fun though. I bought this as a collector's piece, not a match gun.

    Here's an old thread I found from someone who had the exact same issue (albeit under scarier circumstances, happened with a live round in the chamber)

    They were successful in eliminating the problem by simply giving everything a good cleaning.

    I was much more focused on corrosion prevention when I did everything yesterday and didn't fully disassemble the FCG. I have a Wolff "rifle service pak" that arrived today with a new striker spring and extractor spring, I think I'll do a deep clean of the FCG while I'm in there tonight and see what happens.

    That "someone" was me. In that rifle's case it was a good cleaning and lube that corrected the issue. You should try that on your rifle as a first step. And while you're at it inspect everything for any wear.

    Fact is it wasn't a scary or unsafe situation with a live round. The range fix is simply reset the cocking piece and fire again. If the cocking piece locks up again, clear the round, unload the magazine and take the rifle off line and back to your bench. ;)

    Sounds like you scored a nice SMLE. They can be a lot of fun. Keep at it and you'll get yours working well. Springfield Sporters is a good source for Enfield parts. BTW, pics of the rest of the rifle attached to that nose cap are expected... ;);)

    If you plan on reloading for it (which you should do) I highly recommend only neck-sizing your cases and dedicate them to that rifle. And I would pick up a broken shell extractor and keep it in your range box. They are inexpensive. If you shoot enough .303 British sooner or later you're gonna need it... :thumbsup: https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/2...d-TlYex_tTsd0cwX_vHAlw6VfvDsto38aAmCbEALw_wcB

    Good luck!

    :)
     

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