AR-15 build info.

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  • Russ D

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    12,029
    Sykesville
    Apone as far as the furniture is concerned I was asking what WORKS as opposed to what is junk.

    MAGPUL and VLTOR make the best furniture I have used, and I have both on my rifles. The MOE and CTR Magpul stocks feel very solid and fit most carbine builds nicely. The VLTOR Modstock also fits very solidly and build quility is top notch. The new Magpul ACS feels well built but I have not fired a weapon with one yet. Personally I don't care for the style. The Modstock IMHO has the best cheek weld of the bunch. The CTR with its improved locking system locks up the tightest of all the Collapsables I've used and feels very solid. As for fixed stocks the MAgpul PRS is top notch but heavy and pricey. The VLTOR rifle lenght modstock is on my SPR'ish build and I love the enhanced cheek weld and light weight. It also comes with a QD swivel and two mounting postions for slings and extra storage compartments. I also really like A1 and A2 stocks for rifle builds. The A1 fits me a little better and is on my long range Ar. Like Apone said furniture is more of a try it out before deciding kind of deal but any of the above are good, well built products.
     

    vette97

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 9, 2008
    1,915
    Carroll County, Maryland
    Yankee Hill Free Float rails - Yankee hill doesn't have the "bling" of Larue or DD, but again - they get the job done in nice style. Lightweight, relatively simple install (gunsmithing required) and YHM offers a nice option that others don't - a "spectre" length that installs on a carbine length gas system, but gives the operator a tad more rail space than a midlength system. Nice. $132-176. Not bad on the wallet, either.

    Do these require their YHM-9621 tool to install? Or can an armorer's tool with the metal pins suffice to tighten the barrel nut?
     

    jchiggins

    Member
    Dec 3, 2009
    1
    Thanks

    Just wanted to thank you for the information on building a rifle. Been shooting a long time but this is my first AR style rifle. I picked a lefty 24 inch bull free float upper, CMMG parts kit, A2 butt, RAA NM trigger. Found a JD lower (formerly Kaiser Defense). At least I think it's JD. It's J something.
    Apparently the partners split and it's now JD Machine. Actually, www.riflegear.com bought out all the Kaiser Defense lowers and is selling them for $99.
    Anyway, I'm on my way and after my ten day wait on the lower, I can assemble using a bullet button.
    For those unfamiliar with the California black rifle situation, they tried to register and prohibit sale on these guns. It's complicated but some folks found loop holes and DOJ lost some court cases. If you buy an off list lower, one that is not specifically identified in the law, you can build if it doesn't have too many of some other specified "evil" features. Lots of lowers are not on doj list. Noveske, Cmmg, Stag, Mega, Kaiser, Probably at least a dozen others.
    One problem is a magazine ahead of a prominent pistol grip. You can buy a funny stock which gives you a sweeping pistol grip like a hunting rifle and hand detach your 10 round mags or you can, because the law makes an exception for a magazine which is removed by a "tool", you get a mag release that works when you poke a bullet or some thing like an allen wrench in the area where your mag release is.
    That's in Calif. Off list lowers and bullet buttons or an off list lower and something like a Monster grip or other goofy stock.
    Thanks for your help again. I am looking forward to shooting it.
     

    Apone

    Active Member
    May 1, 2009
    530
    Salida, CO
    Do these require their YHM-9621 tool to install? Or can an armorer's tool with the metal pins suffice to tighten the barrel nut?

    Hey Vette-

    Yeah - I think all YHM free floats require their tool. Most good online shops stock it, though. It's like $30 or so. YHM also offers free installation of their products, if you send it to them.

    I'm really happy that this thread has been so useful to so many. I'll be doing some more writing soon, so keep an eye open.
     

    BenL

    John Galt Speaking.
    Just wanted to thank you for the information on building a rifle. Been shooting a long time but this is my first AR style rifle. I picked a lefty 24 inch bull free float upper, CMMG parts kit, A2 butt, RAA NM trigger. Found a JD lower (formerly Kaiser Defense). At least I think it's JD. It's J something.
    Apparently the partners split and it's now JD Machine. Actually, www.riflegear.com bought out all the Kaiser Defense lowers and is selling them for $99.
    Anyway, I'm on my way and after my ten day wait on the lower, I can assemble using a bullet button.
    For those unfamiliar with the California black rifle situation, they tried to register and prohibit sale on these guns. It's complicated but some folks found loop holes and DOJ lost some court cases. If you buy an off list lower, one that is not specifically identified in the law, you can build if it doesn't have too many of some other specified "evil" features. Lots of lowers are not on doj list. Noveske, Cmmg, Stag, Mega, Kaiser, Probably at least a dozen others.
    One problem is a magazine ahead of a prominent pistol grip. You can buy a funny stock which gives you a sweeping pistol grip like a hunting rifle and hand detach your 10 round mags or you can, because the law makes an exception for a magazine which is removed by a "tool", you get a mag release that works when you poke a bullet or some thing like an allen wrench in the area where your mag release is.
    That's in Calif. Off list lowers and bullet buttons or an off list lower and something like a Monster grip or other goofy stock.
    Thanks for your help again. I am looking forward to shooting it.

    Have you shot that lefty 24" upper, yet? If so, what kind of accuracy are you getting?
     

    mbenz85

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Apr 22, 2009
    297
    Harford County
    Hey thanks Apone for starting this awesome thread, and everyone else for adding valuable information. I'm starting in on my first build. I have a Hughes Precision stripped lower. I think I'm going to order a Tapco T6 Collapsible Stock. I'm also looking at lower parts kits. There are three I am looking at from brownells. Bushmaster (made in USA $70), High Standard ($77 2 stage trigger), and DPMS ($55). I am leaning towards Bushmaster after reading descriptions and reviews from the website. Anyone have opinions or suggestions on these. I'm going for a budget build that I can have fun with. Brownells is running a pretty nice deal where you get a $25 gift cert if you spend $175. A few more cleaning supplies, other odds and ends and I'll have that $25 back for next time. Thanks for the input!
     

    Russ D

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    12,029
    Sykesville
    IMHO nothing with a TAPCO name would go anywhere near my AR. When I stock a new build there are only 3 real options for me, VLTOR, MAGPUL, or a stock A2. I've had good luck with all 3 of those LPKS. I'd buy the cheapest and send my trigger to Bill Springfield.
     

    Apone

    Active Member
    May 1, 2009
    530
    Salida, CO
    I wasn't gonna say it, but...

    IMHO nothing with a TAPCO name would go anywhere near my AR.

    You can do better than Tapco - for not much more money. If you need to trim your budget a bit, take a look at Command Arms, or maybe DPMS and the Pardus stock. I've never used a Command Arms stock, but lots of people I know have - and they like them. CA (like many other AR parts manufacturers) get a bad rep for being inexepensive, but they do make some quality stuff. I actually use their grip on all of my AR's. Also, try to stick with a mil spec buffer tube. You'll have more options later on.
     

    vette97

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 9, 2008
    1,915
    Carroll County, Maryland
    Hey Vette-

    Yeah - I think all YHM free floats require their tool. Most good online shops stock it, though. It's like $30 or so. YHM also offers free installation of their products, if you send it to them.

    Before I purchased one, Russ offered to lend me his, but I hadn't asked yet as I was in no rush. I got my YHM free float last week and discovered and the barrel nut can be tightened with the AR-15 armorer's tool that has the 2 pins. They fit perfectly and I can torque the nut using my torque wrench, so I'm good to go The locking ring behind the tube can be tightened using a flat blade screwdriver, so there's no need for their tool.

    Thanks so much for putting all of this together. In some way, it inspired me to invest in some new gadgets. :party29:

    ETA: I have a 6 position Tapco stock and it does it's job and never gave me a problem, so I don't have an issue with it. I also use only the highest quality NcStar optics on my AR.
     

    Apone

    Active Member
    May 1, 2009
    530
    Salida, CO
    :thumbsup:

    Sorry man - I just didn't get it! My wife always says that I kill jokes. I'm always asking for someone to explain it...
     

    smokey

    2A TEACHER
    Jan 31, 2008
    31,412
    I wasn't gonna say it, but...



    You can do better than Tapco - for not much more money. If you need to trim your budget a bit, take a look at Command Arms, or maybe DPMS and the Pardus stock. I've never used a Command Arms stock, but lots of people I know have - and they like them. CA (like many other AR parts manufacturers) get a bad rep for being inexepensive, but they do make some quality stuff. I actually use their grip on all of my AR's. Also, try to stick with a mil spec buffer tube. You'll have more options later on.

    i got the pardus stock on my build. It's been solid for me and has very little rattle. When i first got it, it was so tight that i needed two feet on the rifle and two hands pulling hard to move it back and forth. with a little oil and working it back and forth for a little, it broke in nicely and is very tight. the one thing to keep in mind is that some saddle mounts won't work with it because of the little bump on top from the sling loop. I got it new for $60 on midway with buffer spring and all the stuff inside to throw it on. it's not as nice or adaptable as some of the uber expensive nice ones...but it does the trick and it's cheap for builders just starting off.

    also, yhm came out with the diamond series free-floating handguard. now have it on the ar to replace the heavy utg that didn't shed heat very well but was solid. after yanking off the old handguard, the flash hider, front sight, gas tube, and old barrel nut with alucard....the new nut, jam nut, handguard and endcap went right on. It is nice that it's full-length up top and fills in the gap between the reciever and the handguard. i suppose if you wanted, you could even have your upper milled to get rid of the one dead section between the two top rails. The handguard came with two anti-rotation screws to keep it all locked snug. after everything was tightened down it is very very solid and looks like it will vent heat pretty well. is does need ladder covers though instead of slip-over kind because it's a pretty beefy handguard if your hands are smaller.

    **side note learned when putting the handguard on my del-ton upper**
    If you have a clamp-on front sight, del-ton soaks that sh!t in red loctite. alucard and i were worried about snapping/stripping the screws the whole time taking that bitch off even after heating it. it looked like they filled the screw holes with red loctite and then put the screws in to tighten down, then topped them off with more red locite. be prepared for this if working on del-ton's. also the barrel nut was really really loose when alucard backed the factory one off so you may want to double-check that if you're so inclined.
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