This is my rifle. There are many like it but this one is mine!

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  • fred333

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Dec 20, 2013
    12,340
    There is a collector grade on the CMP auction site now. Collector grades have become auction only items. Going to be pricey.

    Yeah, I saw those. But I'm still not sure if I need to spend close to two grand+ for a collectible or whether a nice, shooting Garand (for about a grand) will sate my desires?

    I'm actually a collector by nature, but just never caught the gun bug. I've got a S-C '03-A3 that I'm restoring as a [usable] collectible. But, honestly, my primary reason for wanting a Garand is to have one before the government sets its nanny state sights on them, making them difficult to acquire or requiring registration for purchase.
     

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,282
    HoCo
    Yesterday the Service grades available at CMP were SA
    Now it looks like the Service grades are H&R again
     

    Gcs7th

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 26, 2012
    1,280
    AGC
    Pretty rifle, it was a smart purchase and a neat peice of history. You'll never regret it.
     

    fred333

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Dec 20, 2013
    12,340
    Yesterday the Service grades available at CMP were SA
    Now it looks like the Service grades are H&R again

    Is one preferable over the other? And why?
    I'm in the market for a Garand and noticed that CMP's got two offerings of Service grade M1s (RM1SAS and RM1HRASSP) with a few hundred dollar differential between them and not sure which way to go?
     

    Dave91

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 25, 2009
    1,988
    Anne Arundel
    Is one preferable over the other? And why?
    I'm in the market for a Garand and noticed that CMP's got two offerings of Service grade M1s (RM1SAS and RM1HRASSP) with a few hundred dollar differential between them and not sure which way to go?

    HRA rifles were made after the Korean War. If you get a Springfield there's a chance you'll get a WW2 rifle. The Springfield name is popular in general too.
     

    fred333

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Dec 20, 2013
    12,340
    HRA rifles were made after the Korean War. If you get a Springfield there's a chance you'll get a WW2 rifle. The Springfield name is popular in general too.

    Thanks. That's kinda what I thought.
     

    Threeband

    The M1 Does My Talking
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 30, 2006
    25,234
    Carroll County
    Sweet rifle. If its like most you will like have some op rod rubbing on the stock as well as the bolt contacting the stock. Make sure you check these as the bolt strike can cause a crack....

    Grease it up, right?

    Where the bolt hits the stock you should relieve the stock a bit. It was very obvious where mine was hitting after firing a few rounds. Took about one minute with an exacto knife. My op rod didn't rub so I'm not sure how to fix it. I assume you would relieve the stock there also. Sand it down probably?

    It's not a lubrication issue. You may need to remove some wood.

    You can check for op rod/wood contact by the Old School lampblack method, or using some of your lipstick (if that's how you roll). Remove excess wood with course sandpaper wrapped around a dowel, or with a rasp, chainsaw, or ax.

    Another Boyd's Stocks for Dummies Request

    Posted By Gus Fisher
    Date: Sunday, 16 March 2003, at 6:23 p.m.

    Area 1. I prefer to clear on all of them so they will fit milled trigger guards. This area may have to be lengthened or deepened for the milled trigger guard. Not applicable if using a stamped trigger guard.

    Area 2. The two bedding surfaces may have to be inlet further down if too far from the top of the stock. Measure against a G.I. Stock. If it's within 20 thousandths of an inch, no sweat. 50 thousandths or more calls for more inletting.

    Area 3. No problem as long as the housing doesn't stick or jam there. Hardly ever a problem.

    Area 4. One of the BIGGEST problems lately on Boyd's stocks. The angled cuts on each side usually have to be deepened and taken further back to the rear. The triggerguard should not bear on this clearance cut.





    Area 5. The sometimes is a problem and has to be cleared back a bit. The housing may contact here, but should not be bearing any real pressure against it.

    Area 6. Only AFTER areas 1,2,3,4,5 and 8 are cleared should one carefully take this area down a little if the tension on closing the trigger guard is too much. If you can close the trigger guard and open it without getting a hernia, stop there as it will loosen with use.

    Area 7. A very important area to ensure the receiver is not loose front to rear. Often loose on Boyd's stocks and has to be epoxy bedded.

    Area 8. A prime cause of cracking of original stocks is when the front of the trigger housing contacted here. There should be no contact or the effect of counter recoil can crack the stock here. You don't have to have much clearance. As long as you can barely see light between the housing and this part you are just fine. HTH

    http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=11410&p=57942&viewfull=1#post57942


    BoydsStock-629x275.jpg



    But since you mentioned it:
    Greasing your Garand:
    http://www.garandgear.com/index.php...ew=article&catid=39:how-tos&id=96:lubrication

    M1-GreasePoints.jpg



    Here is the manual, FM 23-5 U.S. Rifle, Caliber .30, M1 (May 17, 1965) :


    https://archive.org/details/Fm23-5

    There will be a test on Friday.
     

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