What did you do at your reloading bench today?
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Was going to do some late night loading last night when my 10 year old Frankford Arsenal electronic scale bit the dust. One of the numbers started flaking out periodically so I decided to can it. I ordered a new one from Amazon as non of the reloading places seem to carry this small model anymore. I checked it periodically against my super duper RCBS electronic scale and calibrated weights and it was always right on. The old one cost a lot less back then though. 
platekiller
Ultimate Member
Got my lee app in the other day. Took me a few days to set up but I’ve gotten about 600 cases for 223 size/deprimed. Cant wait for the swage kit to come in.
steves1911
Ultimate Member
Loaded up 200 5.56 with 75gr bthp and primed 250 300 win mag cases.
Was going to do some late night loading last night when my 10 year old Frankford Arsenal electronic scale bit the dust. One of the numbers started flaking out periodically so I decided to can it. I ordered a new one from Amazon as non of the reloading places seem to carry this small model anymore. I checked it periodically against my super duper RCBS electronic scale and calibrated weights and it was always right on. The old one cost a lot less back then though.
Must be sun spots cause my FA vibratory cleaner took a dump. I was gifted it 8 years ago. New one arriving Wed.
I primed some 45ACP during a Zoom meeting today.
I loaded 100 rounds of 357 Mag last night - first 357 I've ever loaded, although I've loaded a whole bunch of 38 spc in the past.
This was a brand new set of dies - I decided that because I have the Dillon, I wanted a set of dies dedicated to 38, and one set dedicated to 357 so that rather than fiddling with the dies, all I have to do is swap out the tool head.
I've always found it interesting just how long it can take me to get that initial setup of getting my dies dialed in, and last night was no exception. I had gotten about 205 pieces of Fiocchi 357 brass, and I think I ruined 3 of them because of just not paying attention, particularly when setting up the powder die - I had it set too low and waaaaay over-belled the case mouth. Once it's stretched past a certain point, there's really no fixing it and I had to toss them.
I also had a minor problem with decapping the Fiocchi brass - twice I had to reset the decapping pin because of a stubborn primer.
My final loading:
100 Rounds of 357 Mag
Bullet: 125 gr JHP - Montana Gold
Powder/Weight: Alliant 2400/15.5 grains
Primer: CCI 500 SPP
I didn't check OAL with calipers - I seated to the halfway point on the cannelure (eyeballed) and gave it a moderately heavy crimp - not the full-turn heavy crimp, but about 3/4 turn on my Lee FCD.
One thing you've got to love about Alliant 2400 is the vast range you can use with a given bullet. The Lyman 50th Edition manual lists a start weight of 13.0 and a max of 17.7. 4.7 grains is a pretty large gap between min and max.
I don't tend to ever go for max loading, even though my pistol - a Ruger Blackhawk - could probably handle it. I think part of the reason is that with loading on a progressive and knowing there can be a one to two tenths of a grain variance on the drop, I think sticking with a middling loading allows for that variance without stepping out of bounds is a good idea. I know that this isn't going to be a top performer, but if I really want that, I'll find some other powder at some point down the road - 4227, H110 - something like that.
Now I've got to get them to the range to see how they perform. If I don't like them, I've only got 100 to shoot up before I try again.
This was a brand new set of dies - I decided that because I have the Dillon, I wanted a set of dies dedicated to 38, and one set dedicated to 357 so that rather than fiddling with the dies, all I have to do is swap out the tool head.
I've always found it interesting just how long it can take me to get that initial setup of getting my dies dialed in, and last night was no exception. I had gotten about 205 pieces of Fiocchi 357 brass, and I think I ruined 3 of them because of just not paying attention, particularly when setting up the powder die - I had it set too low and waaaaay over-belled the case mouth. Once it's stretched past a certain point, there's really no fixing it and I had to toss them.
I also had a minor problem with decapping the Fiocchi brass - twice I had to reset the decapping pin because of a stubborn primer.
My final loading:
100 Rounds of 357 Mag
Bullet: 125 gr JHP - Montana Gold
Powder/Weight: Alliant 2400/15.5 grains
Primer: CCI 500 SPP
I didn't check OAL with calipers - I seated to the halfway point on the cannelure (eyeballed) and gave it a moderately heavy crimp - not the full-turn heavy crimp, but about 3/4 turn on my Lee FCD.
One thing you've got to love about Alliant 2400 is the vast range you can use with a given bullet. The Lyman 50th Edition manual lists a start weight of 13.0 and a max of 17.7. 4.7 grains is a pretty large gap between min and max.
I don't tend to ever go for max loading, even though my pistol - a Ruger Blackhawk - could probably handle it. I think part of the reason is that with loading on a progressive and knowing there can be a one to two tenths of a grain variance on the drop, I think sticking with a middling loading allows for that variance without stepping out of bounds is a good idea. I know that this isn't going to be a top performer, but if I really want that, I'll find some other powder at some point down the road - 4227, H110 - something like that.
Now I've got to get them to the range to see how they perform. If I don't like them, I've only got 100 to shoot up before I try again.
With today's shortages, I advise people to use 3 shot ladders so as not to waste powder and primers on the unknown. Now if you are only shooting at 7 yards, it wouldn't make a difference but, I doubt you are shooting your .357 at seven yards. 
I'm not sure how I'll use these - I put them in some old green MTM ammo boxes that my Dad probably bought in the 1970s - I still have some of his 357 reloads in one of those that he loaded in 1979 when I was still 8 years old.With today's shortages, I advise people to use 3 shot ladders so as not to waste powder and primers on the unknown. Now if you are only shooting at 7 yards, it wouldn't make a difference but, I doubt you are shooting your .357 at seven yards.
With that in mind, I doubt if these will be poor performers - it seems that 2400 is a very reliable powder for 357 and produces very accurate ammo whether they're loaded heavy or light.
For what it's worth, 2400 likes heavy bullets and strong bullet pull. I used it quite a bit in my .44mag, 20gns behind a 250gn bullet. I found that even with a good crimp, it left unburned powder in both pistol and rifle if I didn't use a magnum primer.
That's interesting - one of the reasons I got the 2400, other than the fact that it's known as a good powder for 357, is that I've read that it doesn't need a magnum primer to burn well.
I'll keep a watch on that when I get these to the range to try them out.
I've got some 158 gr polymer coated lead bullets - I could probably get away with using those on the next batch.
With today's shortages, I advise people to use 3 shot ladders so as not to waste powder and primers on the unknown. Now if you are only shooting at 7 yards, it wouldn't make a difference but, I doubt you are shooting your .357 at seven yards.
I"ve DEFINITELY been doing this myself. I"ve also been doing 3 shots with OCW method as well very often.
On the wide range for 357 is that not cause many people load 357 at 38spl velocities/energy/pressures?
I loaded 30 22-250 for ladder testing. I'm using H380 and 55gr pills. I'm going to load some Varget for my next ladder test.
Was going to do some late night loading last night when my 10 year old Frankford Arsenal electronic scale bit the dust. One of the numbers started flaking out periodically so I decided to can it. I ordered a new one from Amazon as non of the reloading places seem to carry this small model anymore. I checked it periodically against my super duper RCBS electronic scale and calibrated weights and it was always right on. The old one cost a lot less back then though.
I keep a good beam scale handy just in case, it is calibrated to .1 grains. I have had it for 20 + years.
Amazon just delivered my Frankford Arsenal 750 scale. Now I can put the big RCBS away and get back to weighing bullets. 
Update, my bench is usable ready. That means not finished but, I became inpatient. Sunday, I had a little time in the evening, I cleared some of the wood working tools away or off to one side, did a quick cleaning and was ready. Unboxed the new Lee Pro-4000 parts, following UL's videos, I spread all of the parts and literature out on an adjacent table. Then began reading all of the directions. I bought the press with .223 dies.
Stepping back from Sunday for a moment, during the table retrofit, I had some E-Z LOK threaded anchors and I installed them into the face of my bench top, almost flush, about 1/16" above surface of the top, "I can grind them level later, if it bothers me.
I have two Lee presses, each has a different base bolt pattern and I'm certain other future purchased presses will as well. In an effort to be interchangeable, I mounted both Lee's onto individual 2"x6"x20" board bases. The bolts securing the press to the 2x6 are counter sunk, into the bottoms of the 2x6's for a flush surface mount to the bench top. Then drilled holes into the 2x6's that correspond to the Split anchors location in the bench top. Now they are easily interchanged, my press's will be located at the same location with every use and other future tools that require a secure footing will be similarly prep'd for same connections. The 2x6 bases also allow me to easily store the unused press(s) on an adjacent shelf.
Back to Sunday evening, Press 4000 is attached to the 2x6 and mounted on the bench. I located the grease areas and greased, handle is spun around to the appropriate operational direction, installed the primer tube and stopped. Back to the books, read read read....
Station 1, run plate up to top of stroke, rotate die down until touching surface, lower plate, advance die down 1/3 turn or so more, tighten quick nut. Done
I picked out a once fired shell, verify size with a digital caliper, shell is a little long, a quick trim with the RCBS trimmer, (need to mount it to a 2x6), use provided grease and I place it onto the press. Pull lever down, my first active pull.. shell is pushed into the plate, goes up, comes down, advances around to each other station, station 2 and 3 are backed out so they don't engage the shell, station 4 is empty, do I need a crimping die for .223's?? 4 pulls until it kicks out at the end. All seems good.
Shell neck diameter check is good,
Fired primer check, not good, its still in place.
Another adjustment of station one... Nope
Two more times around the turret and primer is out.
Grab a second once fired casing and repeat process the case is sized and the primer is out on the first rotation!
Progress is MINE!
Begin to review the small primer set key...
Wife decides my reloading time has expired... no bullets made
Stepping back from Sunday for a moment, during the table retrofit, I had some E-Z LOK threaded anchors and I installed them into the face of my bench top, almost flush, about 1/16" above surface of the top, "I can grind them level later, if it bothers me.
I have two Lee presses, each has a different base bolt pattern and I'm certain other future purchased presses will as well. In an effort to be interchangeable, I mounted both Lee's onto individual 2"x6"x20" board bases. The bolts securing the press to the 2x6 are counter sunk, into the bottoms of the 2x6's for a flush surface mount to the bench top. Then drilled holes into the 2x6's that correspond to the Split anchors location in the bench top. Now they are easily interchanged, my press's will be located at the same location with every use and other future tools that require a secure footing will be similarly prep'd for same connections. The 2x6 bases also allow me to easily store the unused press(s) on an adjacent shelf.
Back to Sunday evening, Press 4000 is attached to the 2x6 and mounted on the bench. I located the grease areas and greased, handle is spun around to the appropriate operational direction, installed the primer tube and stopped. Back to the books, read read read....
Station 1, run plate up to top of stroke, rotate die down until touching surface, lower plate, advance die down 1/3 turn or so more, tighten quick nut. Done
I picked out a once fired shell, verify size with a digital caliper, shell is a little long, a quick trim with the RCBS trimmer, (need to mount it to a 2x6), use provided grease and I place it onto the press. Pull lever down, my first active pull.. shell is pushed into the plate, goes up, comes down, advances around to each other station, station 2 and 3 are backed out so they don't engage the shell, station 4 is empty, do I need a crimping die for .223's?? 4 pulls until it kicks out at the end. All seems good.
Shell neck diameter check is good,
Fired primer check, not good, its still in place.
Another adjustment of station one... Nope
Two more times around the turret and primer is out.
Grab a second once fired casing and repeat process the case is sized and the primer is out on the first rotation!
Progress is MINE!
Begin to review the small primer set key...
Wife decides my reloading time has expired... no bullets made
You will want to trim after sizing your cases, if needed. Measure cases before then after. You will see them grow after the sizing operation.
This. Periodically, I sit at the boob tube with a caliper set to my acceptable length and run cases through it. Long ones go into one coffee can, acceptable go in another. There are many ways and tools to do this with, this is mine.
This is only because I only shoot for plinking these days so average accuracy works for me. If you are target shooting, there are extra steps you need to do.
