How important is brass?

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  • dist1646

    Ultimate Member
    May 1, 2012
    8,784
    Eldersburg
    OAL is only important for fitting into magazines.

    For accuracy, you need to measure to the same point of the ogive.

    The meplat (point) is not consistent on match bullets due to the open tip.
    Re-read my post.
    Ok, guys. I've been reloading since the early 80s. Did some bench rest primarily with .222 (the bees knees back then) and 6mm Remington. Also did some IHMSA shooting wildcats like the 30 Herrett. All my straight wall pistol loads (38 sp, 357 mag, 44 mag etc) were full length resized by necessity. However, I generally got my best accuracy with neck sized only cases using Bottleneck brass cases sorted like many of you have described. Idea was to have the brass fit the chamber tightly and consustently. Now that works for bolt guns and break action (like my T/Cs), but what do you guys do in ARs and similar semi autos? Being an old guy who only rarely shot semi autos way back in the day, convention was to only full length resize for semis. Obviously, this was in part because neck sized only ammo often wouldn't fit other rifle chambers (regardless of action type) as well and could even cause feeding issues. So what particular means do you use on ARs or even other semi autos to enhance accuracy as regards to resizing? Do you use small base dies or ither means to this end? I saw nothing in the thread about any special brass sizing techiques. To be sure I have done some reloading for the AR platform and get relatively good accuracy. But I really haven't played with working up loads specifically for semis so as to push for maximum accuracy in that platform. FYI, many years ago I did some shooting in M1 leagues with a Garand and did OK if unspectacular. But I really didn't play with the sizing issue with the '06 liaded for the Garand Just straight FL resizing and then use my preferred load with Sierra Match King bullets.

    Since I load for multiple semi automatic rifles, I use a small base sizing die to be sure that ammo will chamber with no issues. If you have a large chamber, you may be able to get away with using standard FL dies for that rifle. Wylde chamber comes to mind here. I prefer tighter chambers in all of my rifles, the brass doesn't get worked as much and as a result, lasts longer. For accuracy and reliability in a semi, I bump the shoulder back 2-3 thousandth's.
    I started shooting competition with an M1 Garand, way back in the last century. I never found the need for anything other than a standard FL die for the M1 because their chamber is large enough, it is not needed.
    Bolt guns and break actions like you describe, allow the brass to cool enough that the brass isn't fully expanded to the chamber before the action is opened. With semi-auto's that may not always be the case.
     

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