80% Glock build costs

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  • ken792

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 2, 2011
    4,489
    Fairfax, VA
    the lpk i received had an extra pin in it that was made of nylon. any chance yours did too, and you installed a nylon pin instead of a metal one?

    The rear pin on a factory Glock is plastic, so that's probably it.
     

    OnTarget

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 29, 2009
    3,154
    WV
    Is the Polymer80 (PF940CV1 80% READYMOD FRAME POLY GLOCK® 19/23/32 9MM/40S&W) easier to build than the earlier version, which is now on sale at Brownells? If so, could you highlight a few of the more positive features of the ReadyMod?
     

    MikeV

    Member
    Apr 15, 2017
    21
    Just to be clear, the ReadyMod version of the PF940C (note the suffix C) has only just entered the supply chain. The same model, but with the already textured grip has been available for more than a month. So if you refer to that as the earlier version, there's no difference in difficulty in the build. And the pre-textured grip is SO GOOD, you're leaving yourself extra work with the ReadyMod version. And if you stipple (not ME!!) you'd better be VERY GOOD just to match the Polymer80 texture...

    BUT, if you're referring to the PF940 (no suffix) also known as the Spectre this is the full size G17 version that indeed was the very first Polymer80 Glock clone. And while this isn't difficult to build, the PF940C (G19) is indeed easier and it addresses many of the initial criticisms of the Spectre. Namely, a full set of metal rails vs the half polymer rails of the initial offering.

    Bottom line, choose the PF940C.

    But you still have a choice to make: textured grip or ReadyMod.

    And if you really like a full sized frame, be patient. The suppliers are "blowing out" v1.0 of the Spectre in anticipation of v2.0 which everyone believes will include improvements learned from the PF940C.
     
    Last edited:

    OnTarget

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 29, 2009
    3,154
    WV
    Just to be clear, the ReadyMod version of the PF940C (note the suffix C) has only just entered the supply chain. The same model, but with the already textured grip has been available for more than a month. So if you refer to that as the earlier version, there's no difference in difficulty in the build. And the pre-textured grip is SO GOOD, you're leaving yourself extra work with the ReadyMod version. And if you stipple (not ME!!) you'd better be VERY GOOD just to match the Polymer80 texture...

    BUT, if you're referring to the PF940 (no suffix) also known as the Spectre this is the full size G17 version that indeed was the very first Polymer80 Glock clone. And while this isn't difficult to build, the PF940C (G19) is indeed easier and it addresses many of the initial criticisms of the Spectre. Namely, a full set of metal rails vs the half polymer rails of the initial offering.

    Bottom line, choose the PF940C.


    But you still have a choice to make: textured grip or ReadyMod.

    And if you really like a full sized frame, be patient. The suppliers are "blowing out" v1.0 of the Spectre in anticipation of v2.0 which everyone believes will include improvements learned from the PF940C.


    I'm not talking about the Spectre. So, then, the way I understand it, the other choice is the PF940C, but with the selection remaining as to whether one wants the pre-textured or ReadyMod grip. I'd want the pre-textured, just like you. I saw the ReadyMod listed on Brownell's, but did not look for pre-textured. I would want to keep the entire build as easy as possible.
     

    MikeV

    Member
    Apr 15, 2017
    21
    Actually, Brownells made your choice easier...the ReadyMod pf940c is out of stock, but the textured pf940c is good to go.:thumbsup:

    (search the Brownells page for Polymer80 and first up is the textured pf940c)

    ...spend $175 and take $20 off w free shipping with coupon code M3T :)
     
    Last edited:
    I completed a 940C in about an hour. I used a dremel I do not recommend using the end mill provided. It doesn't offer enough control. After using the dremel i used a file to remove excess then fine wet dry sand paper to finish. I also used a clamp and drill press to drill the holes ONE SIDE AT A TIME. A hand drill all the way through is asking for an un-repairable mistake.
     

    r3t1awr3yd

    Meh.
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 14, 2010
    4,739
    Bowie, MD
    I completed a 940C in about an hour. I used a dremel I do not recommend using the end mill provided. It doesn't offer enough control. After using the dremel i used a file to remove excess then fine wet dry sand paper to finish. I also used a clamp and drill press to drill the holes ONE SIDE AT A TIME. A hand drill all the way through is asking for an un-repairable mistake.

    Are you using the end mill in a milling machine or...?
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    I can understand saying the endmill doesn't offer enough control in a say a drill but in a mill on a vice? ehhhh

    I can't comment on the supplied bit in a real mill - with a good machine vice, as I have neither.

    But, I can say that I've had good luck (and results) using the most basic of tools to complete these - aside from my Spectre80 runaway.
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,502
    AA Co
    I can understand saying the endmill doesn't offer enough control in a say a drill but in a mill on a vice? ehhhh
    Issues arise when you try to stand that sucker up on end to mill it with a conventional mill. It is not a very stable setup, even with tall vise jaws. There is a lot of room for the jig and frame to move about, that's why I set mine up for milling the top of the frame and used a ball end mill to cut the barrel block while it was sitting down in the vise. That worked very well..
     
    I can understand saying the endmill doesn't offer enough control in a say a drill but in a mill on a vice? ehhhh

    I don't own a mill. For the 940C it would be overkill...it's the easiest 80% i've encountered. It would potentially take longer to set it up in a mill than it took me to complete it with a Dremel, a file and sand paper. Once you get one you will see what I mean. The amount of material you have to remove is very minimal..
     
    I can't comment on the supplied bit in a real mill - with a good machine vice, as I have neither.

    But, I can say that I've had good luck (and results) using the most basic of tools to complete these - aside from my Spectre80 runaway.

    I tried using the end mill on my first 940 (full size frame) and didn't like the results. I used a dremel to remove the front material and I cut the rear rails with a jig saw blade (by hand with only the blade) and a flat diamond needle file. I did a total of 4 of the full frames. 2 G22 clones, one with a Tactical Solutions .22LR conversion and one with a ARMSCOR .22TCM9R conversion. I have one left and just ordered the slide and guts for a G17.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    OMFG!!

    IT WORKS!! Just did a quick mag-dump in the back yard, no hiccups to report.

    20170501_182447.jpg

    20170501_182454.jpg
     

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