AM 10 bolt carrier release button pivot screw/pin

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!

    • Register Log in
    R

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,667
    I have an Anderson AM10 rifle. Went to the range this weekend and when I took it down to clean, the bolt carrier release button FELL OUT. I looked closer and there is a hole in the receiver that accepts a screw or pin to hold it in place. The spring is still in place and when I reassemble the button it stays In place and functions. I looked everywhere and am unable to find the fastener, so I need to purchase a replacement.

    1. Does anyone know what the spec is for this part? roll pin or screw? Sive? thread pitch?
    2. I contacted the manufacturer but so far have received no reply. Also, their website does not list parts that specific, only group kits for someone building a rifle, upper, lower, ETC.

    At this point I am at a loss as to where to go to resolve my dilemma. Also, Brownells does not have any components parts for this specific platform.
     
    alucard0822

    alucard0822

    For great Justice
    Oct 29, 2007
    17,687
    PA
    10s are rough on the bolt catch and pin. Should use either a threaded pin or roll pin, the size, and presence or absence of threads will let you know which one. Should use a little blue loc-tite when reinstalling a threaded pin, but just on the end of the threads, you don't want to get it into the moving pin/catch surface.

    Roll pin

    Most common threaded pin
     
    R

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,667
    alucard0822 said:
    10s are rough on the bolt catch and pin. Should use either a threaded pin or roll pin, the size, and presence or absence of threads will let you know which one. Should use a little blue loc-tite when reinstalling a threaded pin, but just on the end of the threads, you don't want to get it into the moving pin/catch surface.

    Roll pin

    Most common threaded pin
    Click to expand...

    Thanks for the links. I'll get my glasses out and see if I can espy threads in the socket.

    And how the devil would one smear Loctite on the screw/pin end, then slide it through not 1 but 2 holes, and into a socket, without touching the pivot? Are we talking a needle applicator with a bent tip?

    I guess I should be checking the pin each time I return to the range, as a part of my cleaning routine.
     
    Last edited:
    clandestine

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    Can you post a picture of the part in question?

    6-32 is the standard thread size for a threaded bolt catch. You are not going to find one at the hardware store. Even places like Fastenal don't carry them.

    FYI for threaded assemblies like bolt catch screws, Loctite is not a good fit, I know because people bring me threaded bolt catch pins that were Loctite and screwed in.
     
    R

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,667
    clandestine said:
    Can you post a picture of the part in question?

    6-32 is the standard thread size for a threaded bolt catch. You are not going to find one at the hardware store. Even places like Fastenal don't carry them.

    FYI for threaded assemblies like bolt catch screws, Loctite is not a good fit, I know because people bring me threaded bolt catch pins that were Loctite and screwed in.
    Click to expand...

    Er... if I had the part I wouldn't need to find a replacement

    If Loctite is not th answer, what is the proper way to keep the pivot in place?
     
    clandestine

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    ras_oscar said:
    Er... if I had the part I wouldn't need to find a replacement

    If Loctite is not th answer, what is the proper way to keep the pivot in place?
    Click to expand...

    I meant of the area where the pin goes. I can tell you what type you need if I have a picture.

    If it's a roll pin, it's a friction fit. If it's a threaded pin and it's walking then the pin that was lost was undersized or the tapped hole Olin the lower is oversize. There is no way I can answer that without having the lower in front of me. If the pin walks out something is out of spec. I can't count how many grossly out of spec Anderson lowers and parts I have serviced. Sometimes they can be repaired, sometimes not.
     
    R

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,667
    Camera doesn't focus up close, so I could not get any useful pictures. I did, however investigate futher. The receiver haunch that supports the latch pin is through drilled on one side only, The opposite side is a blind hole. Using a needle I probed both the thru hole and the blind hole. The blind hole is smooth, and the thru hole is threaded. I suspect I need a pin either threaded the entire length, or at the head only. It appears to align closely with the following part number referenced above on Brownell's

    231-000-274WB

    I ordered 3, in case it goes loos again. Thanks for the help
     
    Last edited:
    clandestine

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    ras_oscar said:
    Camera doesn't focus up close, so I could not get any useful pictures. I did, however investigate futher. The receiver haunch that supports the latch pin is through drilled on one side only, The opposite side is a blind hole. Using a needle I probed both the thru hole and the blind hole. The blind hole is smooth, and the thru hole is threaded. I suspect I need a pin either threaded the entire length, or at the head only. It appears to align closely with the following part number referenced above on Brownell's

    231-000-274WB
    Click to expand...

    Assuming Anderson used the common thread size, that will work.

    The blind hole in the lower may not be drilled deep enough to accept the DPMS part. You may need to lenghten the hole or shorten the non threaded portion of the DPMS part to make it fit.

    You will need a 6" 3/32 bit to deepen the bore if necessary.

    Here is the 6' 3/32 drill bit.
    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn7MAEEn17Y/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=idrmx4sflr7q
     
    You must log in or register to reply here.

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
    Citadel Firearms Training MD banner ad

    Latest posts

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,344
    Messages
    7,277,921
    Members
    33,437
    Latest member
    Mantis

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom