Returned from local gun store
- Thread starter Zorros
- Start date
The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast
Member Benefits:
No ad networks! Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership Discuss anti-gun legislation Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses Discover free outdoor shooting areas View up to date on firearm-related events Share photos & video with other members ...and so much more!
Member Benefits:
Zorros
Ultimate Member
The ejector on this old gun needs some work. It sticks on 2/5 of the cyliders, works fine on the other three. I suspected a bent ejector rod so i removed the crane, the cyl and the ejector rod as well as he extractor and springs. However, rolling the cyl above a ruler with the ejector rod in place and the cyl still attached to the gun, there was some variance, but not as much as i expected, but the ejector rod is short. I also note that with the flat latch, raised at the cyl end, shells can hang up,so i wonder if sometime along the line someone really slapped down of the ejector rod. Anyway, the ejector rod, as you may know, is grooved to fit the inside of the cyl and i wonder if the male extrusion inside the cyl to the female groove
Is rough and causing the hang up, but i would think that would happen on each rotation of the cyl when i depress the ejector rod. This one is ser no 284*** so i think it is pre 60 with left hand threads. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I can always find a replacement rod, but i would prefer to work with this one and inhave no tools to enable me to figure out exactly where the rod is high and low. Cyl opens and closes as it should.
Is rough and causing the hang up, but i would think that would happen on each rotation of the cyl when i depress the ejector rod. This one is ser no 284*** so i think it is pre 60 with left hand threads. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I can always find a replacement rod, but i would prefer to work with this one and inhave no tools to enable me to figure out exactly where the rod is high and low. Cyl opens and closes as it should.
I'll give you some help if I can.
Can you tell me what you mean by the ejector sticking on 2 of 5 chambers? Do you mean that 2 cases are hard to come out?
Can you tell me what you mean by the ejector sticking on 2 of 5 chambers? Do you mean that 2 cases are hard to come out?
Zorros
Ultimate Member
Thanks john. i Start with a chamber at 9 oclock and depress the ejector rod, then rotate the cyl to the next chamber and depress the rod. I do this for all 5 chambers. for 2 or three chambers in sequence, the ejector rod binds. For the remaining chambers, it works smoothly as Intended. By works, i mean when depressed the ejector fully extends and retracts. Not working means the ejector advances 3/4 of the way and then binds, does not retract.
Do you know how to take the cylinder apart? If not, here is how you do it. First remove the yoke out of the cylinder. That will leave the ejector and ejector rod inside the cylinder. You need a vise for the next part.
Wrap the cylinder center rod with a few wraps of tape and then snug it into a set of vise jaws with the cylinder about 3/4 of an inch above the vise. Don't squash it just snug it for the time being. Then take three empty cases and place them in the cylinder in this fashion. One skip one, One skip one, and one. Next, while the cylinder rod is being held in the vise, push down on the cylinder so that the ejector star clears the alignment pins in the center of the cylinder. Once you do this, then try turning the cylinder to the right to loosen.
If it turns, make a couple of turns and then remove the cylinder and rod from the vise. Over a couple of paper towels, unscrew the center rod, holding it as it is under spring tension. Once the rod is all the way out of the ejector star, remove the rod while holding the star in the cylinder. Once the rod is out, you can remove the locking bolt and springs.
You will have a inner spring, outer spring, a bearing and the long locking bolt.
If you get this far, let me know.
Wrap the cylinder center rod with a few wraps of tape and then snug it into a set of vise jaws with the cylinder about 3/4 of an inch above the vise. Don't squash it just snug it for the time being. Then take three empty cases and place them in the cylinder in this fashion. One skip one, One skip one, and one. Next, while the cylinder rod is being held in the vise, push down on the cylinder so that the ejector star clears the alignment pins in the center of the cylinder. Once you do this, then try turning the cylinder to the right to loosen.
If it turns, make a couple of turns and then remove the cylinder and rod from the vise. Over a couple of paper towels, unscrew the center rod, holding it as it is under spring tension. Once the rod is all the way out of the ejector star, remove the rod while holding the star in the cylinder. Once the rod is out, you can remove the locking bolt and springs.
You will have a inner spring, outer spring, a bearing and the long locking bolt.
If you get this far, let me know.
Zorros
Ultimate Member
Hi John. Yes, i removed the crane and had the cylinder off twice and the ejector rod, inner rod, both springs and ejector removed. Cleaned everything.
I'm going to send you a PM to get off this thread.
Zorros
Ultimate Member
Thank you.
Biggfoot44
Ultimate Member
- Aug 2, 2009
- 33,137
Still trying to visualize the sequences here :
Are you loading one round at a time , firing it , and then testing ejection ?
Are you starting with unloaded gun , and then running the ejector through its limit of travel , and sequentially rotating the cylnder 72 degrees ?
If I had the revolver in my hands I could doing my advanced routine of function testing while applying Mark I Eyeball . But over the internet , I'm racking my memory for obscure S&W hiccups I have run across .
When you disassembled the cylinder , did you see any uneven wear upon the ejector rod ?
Are you loading one round at a time , firing it , and then testing ejection ?
Are you starting with unloaded gun , and then running the ejector through its limit of travel , and sequentially rotating the cylnder 72 degrees ?
If I had the revolver in my hands I could doing my advanced routine of function testing while applying Mark I Eyeball . But over the internet , I'm racking my memory for obscure S&W hiccups I have run across .
When you disassembled the cylinder , did you see any uneven wear upon the ejector rod ?
Zorros
Ultimate Member
Hi Bigfoot. I will check the center pin, ejector rod and extractor later this week. I am traveling this week; i have the gun, but i don’t have access to a vice until later this week to remove those parts. Thank you for the suggestion.
I bought mine during the height of the Viet Nam War from Maryland Police Supply. I had to wait for eight months to get it as I was told that most of them were being bought by family of our armed forces and sent there as last resort weapons. Since these were stainless, rust resistant and easy to carry, they were perfect for our guys over there.
Is this true? I really can't say, but that is the explanation given to me for the long wait. I carried this with me during my tenure in the Baltimore Police Department as a backup gun for years.
Is this true? I really can't say, but that is the explanation given to me for the long wait. I carried this with me during my tenure in the Baltimore Police Department as a backup gun for years.
ralph.mclean
GOC (Grumpy Old Cop)
Where is the "like" button...?
Biggfoot44
Ultimate Member
- Aug 2, 2009
- 33,137
Yes , back when introduced , M60's were in very high demand , had waiting lists , sold above retail , etc .
Gorgeous
Biggfoot44
Ultimate Member
- Aug 2, 2009
- 33,137
S&W M-60, aka Stainless Chiefs Special, aka the first mainstream production handgun .
Ok. I never saw a stainless M60 or one that was easy to carry. 
