Remington 700 build questions

Caudizle · Apr 17, 2016

Great folks of MDS, I've been slowly building my first bolt action. Bought a stock once used (fired once, a couple rounds so he told me) Remington 700 AAC-SD in .308.

Timney trigger (installed by previous owner, unknown model)
Hunter 700
Badger base
Seekins rings - 30mm, low .82"
Vortex PST Viper 4-16 MRAD

Suggestions for brake?

I haven't even shot it yet, ha, but I'm hoping it'll shoot nice (I've heard stock 700's can vary in accuracy) I'm hoping mine will be one of the good ones.

That scope/barrel gap!

My main concern, there's not much clearance here. I've checked it out, changed the power, all seems fine. Anyone have thoughts on this? I suppose I could have pull the forward ring back one notch to give me more more room, but the eye relief was just right, and I liked having the rings as far apart as possible.

Indiana Jones · Apr 17, 2016

Should be ok with that clearance. I just hope your PST holds up. Mine had parts fall off from 5.56 recoil. I was not impressed. Overall I like the scope but Vortex has their yellow tinged glass that makes me angry. Dont even bother with that shim based zero stop. Otherwise it worked well for me. Nice rifle, I plan to do a 700 one day myself. My only modern bolt gun is my Tikka which is for elk and no fun to shoot a lot of rounds through. I feel a box of 3006 in a 6.2 pound rifle!

Caudizle · Apr 17, 2016

Indiana Jones said:
Should be ok with that clearance. I just hope your PST holds up. Mine had parts fall off from 5.56 recoil. I was not impressed. Overall I like the scope but Vortex has their yellow tinged glass that makes me angry. Dont even bother with that shim based zero stop. Otherwise it worked well for me. Nice rifle, I plan to do a 700 one day myself. My only modern bolt gun is my Tikka which is for elk and no fun to shoot a lot of rounds through. I feel a box of 3006 in a 6.2 pound rifle!

Oh boy. Well, it is in the mid price range, has decent reviews. Also, the factory warranty people say will cover those types of failures.

Indiana Jones · Apr 17, 2016

Caudizle said:
Oh boy. Well, it is in the mid price range, has decent reviews. Also, the factory warranty people say will cover those types of failures.

Yea the warranty is good. I lent it to a friend for his .243. Im sure it will be fine.

You'll enjoy that rifle. I really want one myself but need an M1 Carbine first!

DutchV · Apr 17, 2016

My personal preference would be to not have the ring over an unsupported part of the base. But that might just be me. Also, if it's new to me, I might take the rings and base off and re-attach them using Loc-tite and an inch-pound torque wrench. Not that the last guy was wrong, but I'd rather know for myself that the screws are right.

Get some ammo and shoot it. Let us know how it goes.

Caudizle · Apr 17, 2016

DutchV said:
My personal preference would be to not have the ring over an unsupported part of the base. But that might just be me. Also, if it's new to me, I might take the rings and base off and re-attach them using Loc-tite and an inch-pound torque wrench. Not that the last guy was wrong, but I'd rather know for myself that the screws are right.

Get some ammo and shoot it. Let us know how it goes.

Sorry if that was confusing, I actually did take off the cheap EGW base he had on it. It was twisted. I put the badger on it with blue medium loc-tite and torqued it to 15 inch-lbs (which I thought was kinda low but that's what badger called for on the package).

Crap I didn't think about having the rings over supported parts of the base...is that really an issue? Should I move it before I zero?

balttigger · Apr 17, 2016

To answer your original question; I went with an Effin-A 7.62 brake on mine. Have not shot it yet to tune it, but the reviews have been pretty good.

jking22sf · Apr 18, 2016

I put a precision armament m11 severe duty on my 700 AAC-sad and really like it so far

Speed3 · Apr 18, 2016

I have a thunderbeast brake on mine....kinda wished I didn't have a brake. 20" with a brake is LOUD. Just my $.02

DutchV · Apr 18, 2016

Caudizle said:
Sorry if that was confusing, I actually did take off the cheap EGW base he had on it. It was twisted. I put the badger on it with blue medium loc-tite and torqued it to 15 inch-lbs (which I thought was kinda low but that's what badger called for on the package).

Crap I didn't think about having the rings over supported parts of the base...is that really an issue? Should I move it before I zero?

If it's a Badger it might be fine. I'm just cautious about something that looks like it could possibly flex.

BradMacc82 · Apr 18, 2016

Just use a piece of a chalk and a straight-edge to mark the scope body where you'd need to move the front ring to be directly over the receiver, if you're worried about the base flexing.

I can't comment on building up a 700, as I haven't been that route myself.

But I'd suggest you shoot it a few times before doing anything to it. Maybe you have a shooter, maybe not - the target will tell you.

As for the Viper PST, should be good enough to get you going. I have a Viper HS-T (6-24 MRAD SFP), and that was plenty good enough for me to do my first F-Class event on Sunday. Managed to score a 564/600 with a homebuilt rifle on a bipod, no bags or rests.

Speed3 · Apr 18, 2016

BradMacc82 said:
Just use a piece of a chalk and a straight-edge to mark the scope body where you'd need to move the front ring to be directly over the receiver, if you're worried about the base flexing.

I can't comment on building up a 700, as I haven't been that route myself.

But I'd suggest you shoot it a few times before doing anything to it. Maybe you have a shooter, maybe not - the target will tell you.

As for the Viper PST, should be good enough to get you going. I have a Viper HS-T (6-24 MRAD SFP), and that was plenty good enough for me to do my first F-Class event on Sunday. Managed to score a 564/600 with a homebuilt rifle on a bipod, no bags or rests.

Where did you shoot fclass? 564 is a decent score man.

BradMacc82 · Apr 18, 2016

Speed3 said:
Where did you shoot fclass? 564 is a decent score man.

Went to New Holland PA, they did a mid-range F-class on Sunday.

Didn't expect to score as well as I did, but I was pleasantly surprised to score what I did. 564 for a n00b with a homebuilt rifle, not too shabby.

byf43 · Apr 18, 2016

Caudizle said:
Great folks of MDS, I've been slowly building my first bolt action. Bought a stock once used (fired once, a couple rounds so he told me) Remington 700 AAC-SD in .308.

Timney trigger (installed by previous owner, unknown model)
Hunter 700
Badger base
Seekins rings - 30mm, low .82"
Vortex PST Viper 4-16 MRAD

Suggestions for brake?

I haven't even shot it yet, ha, but I'm hoping it'll shoot nice (I've heard stock 700's can vary in accuracy) I'm hoping mine will be one of the good ones.

I have the 700 SPS AAC-SD.
I got the Magpul 700 Hunter stock, but still haven't put the two together, yet.

My rifle is really accurate, in the factory stock, while shooting off of an Uncle Bud's "Bulls Bag". (I don't have a bipod on it.)

I shoot my handloads, and I got really lucky.
The loads I use for my M1A are what I've used, sofar.

If you handload, let me know, and I'll post up what I use.

BradMacc82 said:
I have a Viper HS-T (6-24 MRAD SFP), and that was plenty good enough for me to do my first F-Class event on Sunday. Managed to score a 564/600 with a homebuilt rifle on a bipod, no bags or rests.

NICE shootin', Brad!!!!!
Congrats!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

Speed3 · Apr 18, 2016

BradMacc82 said:
Went to New Holland PA, they did a mid-range F-class on Sunday.

Didn't expect to score as well as I did, but I was pleasantly surprised to score what I did. 564 for a n00b with a homebuilt rifle, not too shabby.

I will have to check out there schedule, I was at Reade Saturday at that was 2.5 hours away. Looks like New Holland is the same distance.

BradMacc82 · Apr 18, 2016

Appreciate it. :thumbsup:

Went out there just to try something new, turned out to be a lot of fun. Scoring a decent # was a bonus.

Caudizle · Apr 18, 2016

BradMacc82 said:
Just use a piece of a chalk and a straight-edge to mark the scope body where you'd need to move the front ring to be directly over the receiver, if you're worried about the base flexing.

I don't know if I should be worried about it, really. I mean, the Badger rail is steel, compared to the cheap EGW that was on it which is aluminum. The Badger rail is significantly heavier, and feels very solid. But if anyone here is sure it's not a good idea I might go ahead and move it.

BradMacc82 · Apr 18, 2016

I have no experience with Badger bases, so I couldn't say if flexing is an issue for aluminum or steel. For me, it's just been a force of habit to locate the rings directly over the receiver, when the scope body allows it.

IMHO, for a new rifle - a few range trips with quality ammo is needed before making any changes to it. You may have a great shooter right out of the box, so to speak, so it really benefits you to have a good baseline before making any changes to the rifle.

Caudizle · Apr 18, 2016

BradMacc82 said:
I have no experience with Badger bases, so I couldn't say if flexing is an issue for aluminum or steel. For me, it's just been a force of habit to locate the rings directly over the receiver, when the scope body allows it.

IMHO, for a new rifle - a few range trips with quality ammo is needed before making any changes to it. You may have a great shooter right out of the box, so to speak, so it really benefits you to have a good baseline before making any changes to the rifle.

Gotcha. I did find a guy on youtube (can't check while at work, otherwise I'd give credit) who has the exact same build. Scope, rings, base, stock, rifle, everything. His video series was about a good budget build that could do 800+ yards. Looking at his, he has the rings in closer. I suppose I'll go ahead and brake them free tonight and reposition before I do any zeroing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mBdOdqUIO0

BradMacc82 · Apr 18, 2016

To me, your rear ring is located perfectly. Personally I'd move the front ring back 2 to 3 spaces and call it good.

Just try to make a good record of where the scope currently sits, that way you're not dicking around too much trying to get your relief just right after orienting the ring(s).

Remington 700 build questions

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