Mosin m44 counterboring service

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  • Anyone know of anyone that does this locally or where to get a second opinion on whether or not the barrel itself may need to be replaced?

    It looks like the first 1"+ from the muzzle back is fried. Confirmed visually as well as slugging the bore from both directions. Frosty looking bits I assume is the lead being scraped off the lead ball when being tapped through.

    When going from muzzle end back (past initial resistance from ball being tapped into muzzle) started tight then became tighter. From chamber forward, tight then lighter, roughly an inch from muzzle. Also ran an endoscope through and the rifling looked typical of Mosin's compared to pictures I've seen of other bores minus the muzzle end, but again I can't call it good either way and need someone that has the experience with them to tell me if I need to re barrel or counterbore.
     

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    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,948
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Have you tried shooting the rifle first? I have seen many rifles with sewer pipe barrels that will give acceptable accuracy for punching paper. Doing barrel work on a M44 is a pain in the ass and I doubt any of the dwindling amount of gun smith's would be interested. There may be a hobbyist that has a jig set up for it but this isn't the place to look for him. There are websites for milsurp collectors that may bring you better results.

    https://www.milsurps.com

    http://www.surplusrifleforum.com

    I don't know if this one is still active but Parallax's Curio & Relics Firearm Forums was one of the original and most active sites back in the milsurp heyday.

    Good luck,
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    +1 as above. Shoot it first and see how it does. Doesn't look that bad to me from what I can tell from the pictures. I can see defined rifling in one or two of the shots. I would clean the barrel well and then slug it again with a film of light oil. Once you get an average measurement of the slug you may be able to select ammo that fills the grooves nicely.
    A lot of European rifles already have land and groove measurements that are on the plus size to begin with and it would not surprise me to find ammo in bulk that is up to .001 or 2 over on bullet diameter.

    The other thing is looking through bore scopes will make you nuts when you start to see what is really going on in there. If your still not satisfied with results on paper find someone who has a muzzle chamfer tool first. The tool will cut back the crown sometimes enough to do a relatively satisfactory job of cleaning the muzzle up restoring happiness.
     

    GuitarmanNick

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 9, 2017
    2,225
    Laurel
    In agreement with those that advise shooting it followed by a thorough cleaning. Perhaps a little JB's bore paste and some 0000 steel wool wrapped around a bore brush will improve the internal appearance.

    Remember to extend the bayonet before shooting as they tend to shoot way off to the left with it folded back.
     
    Appreciate all the replies and suggestions.

    - I have shot it and it's tumbling bullets at 50 yards. I was using Brown Bear 174gr.

    - Slugged barrel again and came out to .311 groove to groove. There was some variance (.001-.002 +/-, confirmed with two calipers) when taking measurements.

    I wasn't expecting this thing to put holes on top of each other or even near it but I definitely didn't expect to cause tumble in flight. I've read that shooting the heavier 208gr sp's exclusively may accelerate wear?
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,948
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Try some milsurp or Privi Partisan 150gn as that is what the 91/30's on were designed for. .311 is fine for a MN barrel and should shoot fine. Only some models of the MN28's had .308 barrels.

    Check that Brown Bear ammo and make sure it doesn't have .308 bullets. Russian milsurp ammo is usually .310
     

    noddaz

    bonehead
    Jan 9, 2014
    533
    Arnold
    Counter bore?

    I have a Mosin that has something like a 1/2 counter bore. And that rifle shoots bad. Bad as in I couldn't hit a 8 1/2 x 11 sized paper target at 50 yards. I was shooting surplus ammo, but a 6" to 8" spread from shot to shot was horrible.

    Try different types of ammo in your rifle. Maybe it will be happy shooting something else.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    .311 and 4 groove

    So take a pulled jacketed bullet and center it into the muzzle with the point facing the breech.

    With the barrel or rifle clamped into a vise so it doesn't easily move, give the jacketed bullet a couple light taps with a hammer. What your trying to do is grave the jacket with the ends of the lands.

    (This is where your going to be able to see your minor or bore diameter) ( the copper jacket should be swedged rearwards forming four ridges)

    Once you remove the bullet which should fall right off the muzzle have a look at it and see if you can tell if it has been formed evenly around the circumference. Even and concentric is good here were trying to figure out key-holing. If one of the ridges is less pronounced than the others this could be part of the problem.

    Now, take your calipers over the point of the bullet and move them rearwards towards the base of the bullet until they stop against the four ridges (gouges) and take a measurement.

    Subtract from your outside diameter of your lead slug. It's important to know that lands will wear out faster than the grooves. Have a peek in the breech with your bore scope and see if it looks like dried cracked mud in there or if it looks like 60 grit sandpaper.
     
    So take a pulled jacketed bullet and center it into the muzzle with the point facing the breech.

    With the barrel or rifle clamped into a vise so it doesn't easily move, give the jacketed bullet a couple light taps with a hammer. What your trying to do is grave the jacket with the ends of the lands.

    (This is where your going to be able to see your minor or bore diameter) ( the copper jacket should be swedged rearwards forming four ridges)

    Once you remove the bullet which should fall right off the muzzle have a look at it and see if you can tell if it has been formed evenly around the circumference. Even and concentric is good here were trying to figure out key-holing. If one of the ridges is less pronounced than the others this could be part of the problem.

    Now, take your calipers over the point of the bullet and move them rearwards towards the base of the bullet until they stop against the four ridges (gouges) and take a measurement.

    Subtract from your outside diameter of your lead slug. It's important to know that lands will wear out faster than the grooves. Have a peek in the breech with your bore scope and see if it looks like dried cracked mud in there or if it looks like 60 grit sandpaper.
    Will do and get back to you. Again thanks everybody.
     

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