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  • Florida_11B

    Member
    Jun 10, 2016
    95
    So I just ordered my first press. I got an RCBS ProChucker 5. I know I need to start out slow. What are the places you go for load data. And tips or things I should look out for would be greatly appreciated.
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,678
    AA county
    So I just ordered my first press. I got an RCBS ProChucker 5. I know I need to start out slow. What are the places you go for load data. And tips or things I should look out for would be greatly appreciated.

    Get a good manufacturer reloading manual that covers the cartridges and components you want to load or use manufacturer website data for your loads start at the minimum recommended load and work up.
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    24,000
    Political refugee in WV
    So I just ordered my first press. I got an RCBS ProChucker 5. I know I need to start out slow. What are the places you go for load data. And tips or things I should look out for would be greatly appreciated.

    Want me to set up a one on one session with you to get you started? We can go over everything you can think of and if you bring components for 223, you can make some ammo and get some hands on time.
     

    molonlabe

    Ultimate Member
    May 7, 2005
    2,760
    Mountaineer Country, WV
    I have been for years getting my load data online. It's been years since I bought a reloading book. I think my Speer is edition 11 and my Hornady is a 4. Almost all the powder and bullet mfg. have load data available online.
     

    PowPow

    Where's the beef?
    Nov 22, 2012
    4,713
    Howard County
    Before I started, I read the Lyman and Lee reloading manuals. I later added Hornady and Nosler manuals, since I load their bullets. Hodgdon has really good online load data. Ramshot/Accurate have a useful PDF for their powder load data.
     

    Bountied

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 6, 2012
    7,151
    Pasadena
    Got another noob question. When reloading the .44 mag do you seat and crimp in one pull or seat all the bullets and then crimp them all in separate steps? I have mine set where it will seat the bullet and crimp. It took a lot of adjusting to get it to do both at once. How do you know if your crimp is sufficient? I'm using Hornady 240gr XTP with a cannelure. If I have to seat and then crimp so be it, I'd like my first batch to be a success.
     

    Blacksmith101

    Grumpy Old Man
    Jun 22, 2012
    22,295
    There is a lot more in the manuals than just the load data and any new reloader should read the manual preferably two or more first. Things like pressure signs, the differences in powders, all the safety cautions, etc.
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    24,000
    Political refugee in WV
    Got another noob question. When reloading the .44 mag do you seat and crimp in one pull or seat all the bullets and then crimp them all in separate steps? I have mine set where it will seat the bullet and crimp. It took a lot of adjusting to get it to do both at once. How do you know if your crimp is sufficient? I'm using Hornady 240gr XTP with a cannelure. If I have to seat and then crimp so be it, I'd like my first batch to be a success.

    Seat on one step, crimp on the second. Takes more time, but there is less of a chance of a screw up, if you are not combining the steps.
     

    LGood48

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 3, 2011
    6,095
    Cecil County
    There is a lot more in the manuals than just the load data and any new reloader should read the manual preferably two or more first. Things like pressure signs, the differences in powders, all the safety cautions, etc.

    :thumbsup::thumbsup:
    Couldn't agree more! I've been reloading for over 30 years now and still have the current Lyman, Hornady and Lee manuals on my bench. Periodically check for new updates as well.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    Got another noob question. When reloading the .44 mag do you seat and crimp in one pull or seat all the bullets and then crimp them all in separate steps? I have mine set where it will seat the bullet and crimp. It took a lot of adjusting to get it to do both at once. How do you know if your crimp is sufficient? I'm using Hornady 240gr XTP with a cannelure. If I have to seat and then crimp so be it, I'd like my first batch to be a success.

    For roll crimping, I will do it in one step. Taper crimp is always two steps.

    To set the die to seat and crimp:

    1) Put die in press, part way. Raise bullet seating stem.

    2) Insert case in press, move to top of stroke.

    3) Screw die in until you feel the crimp portion touch the case, then back off 1/2 turn.

    4) Seat bullet in case, starting with shallow, seating, then screw seating stem in, step by step, until the bullet is seated properly. The case mouth should line up with the crimp groove.

    5) Raise seating stem several turns.

    6) Raise case with bullet to top of stroke. Screw in die, until the case mouth touches the crimper. The lower case, screw die in a small amount (1/4 turn or less), the raise case. Check crimp. Repeat until crimp is correct.

    7) Screw lock ring tight.

    8) Raise case to top, then screw in the bullet seater until it touches bullet. Lock the jam nut.

    9) Test with another case and bullet.

    It takes longer to read, than to do it.
     

    Bountied

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 6, 2012
    7,151
    Pasadena
    For roll crimping, I will do it in one step. Taper crimp is always two steps.

    To set the die to seat and crimp:

    1) Put die in press, part way. Raise bullet seating stem.

    2) Insert case in press, move to top of stroke.

    3) Screw die in until you feel the crimp portion touch the case, then back off 1/2 turn.

    4) Seat bullet in case, starting with shallow, seating, then screw seating stem in, step by step, until the bullet is seated properly. The case mouth should line up with the crimp groove.

    5) Raise seating stem several turns.

    6) Raise case with bullet to top of stroke. Screw in die, until the case mouth touches the crimper. The lower case, screw die in a small amount (1/4 turn or less), the raise case. Check crimp. Repeat until crimp is correct.

    7) Screw lock ring tight.

    8) Raise case to top, then screw in the bullet seater until it touches bullet. Lock the jam nut.

    9) Test with another case and bullet.

    It takes longer to read, than to do it.

    Thanks, I watched a few videos last night that show that very procedure. It'll save a little time. I finished my first batch of .44 mag now I guess I need to go see how they work.
     

    Florida_11B

    Member
    Jun 10, 2016
    95
    Thanks for all of the replies. I know I have been MIA from this post for a while now. I have been travelling all the time and just started back into this. I have the first batch of rounds cleaned and re-primed just waiting on powder and projectiles then ill let you guys know how that goes. fingers crossed I wont be missing any fingers after range day.
     

    jimbobborg

    Oddball caliber fan
    Aug 2, 2010
    17,124
    Northern Virginia
    Thanks for all of the replies. I know I have been MIA from this post for a while now. I have been travelling all the time and just started back into this. I have the first batch of rounds cleaned and re-primed just waiting on powder and projectiles then ill let you guys know how that goes. fingers crossed I wont be missing any fingers after range day.

    From what I experienced, one thing you need to look for besides the usual pressure signs and stuff is your bullets walking out of the case. I loaded some new to me coated bullets in my .357, the recoil started pulling the bullets out of their cases :o The third bullet moved enough to interfere with the revolver's action.
     

    Florida_11B

    Member
    Jun 10, 2016
    95
    From what I experienced, one thing you need to look for besides the usual pressure signs and stuff is your bullets walking out of the case. I loaded some new to me coated bullets in my .357, the recoil started pulling the bullets out of their cases :o The third bullet moved enough to interfere with the revolver's action.

    Would you contribute that to improper crimping?
     

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