Removing a scope ramp from a 1911 slide

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  • Horseman308

    Active Member
    Jan 27, 2016
    222
    I just got a Springfield 1911 that had been tricked out for bulls eye, including with a scope ramp. The two screws came out easy enough, but the ramp is still stuck fast. I have no idea what else might be holding it on. I presume some form of epoxy, JB Weld, or something similar. I've tried a couple things to remove it. I padded the slide, put it in a vise, and heated the ramp gently with a torch. It didn't budge when hitting it (modestly) with a non-marring mallet or when applying torque to the ramp with a pair of vise-grips.

    I'm pretty certain I'll need a gunsmith to remove the ramp - not to mention putting iron sights back on. Before I do, has anyone got any other ideas how I might remove a stuck ramp without destroying the slide?

    If not, any recommendations for a good gunsmith?

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    4g64loser

    Bad influence
    Jan 18, 2007
    6,529
    maryland
    Probably jb. Some guys do that to old school rifle s too. Pinned and epoxied. I had to use a chisel and a 48oz ball pein hammer. Heat won't do anything.

    Walt frear, aka triggerdoc, is your man.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    33,199
    Actually , that's a Scope * Base* .

    1X scopes are a thing for Bullseye shooting .

    Besides, I thought Optic Ready was the latest thing for all the cool kids. That right there is the ultimate in optic ready .
     

    Slackdaddy

    My pronouns: Iva/Bigun
    Jan 1, 2019
    5,950
    My bet is there is screws up from below.
    Did you remove the slide and look at the underside?
     

    Horseman308

    Active Member
    Jan 27, 2016
    222
    My bet is there is screws up from below.
    Did you remove the slide and look at the underside?
    So, you're generally right. There are two more screws that blended in much more into recesses in the base. The heads are a little stripped, so they looked like unused holes.

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    slsc98

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    May 24, 2012
    6,872
    Escaped MD-stan to WNC Smokies
    Horseman, there is every chance Brownells AcraGlass was used. If that is the case, I have had some success using heat (AND judicious mechanical, ie tapping w brass punches) but MORE SUCCESS USING COLD (ie in the freezer overnight) and in multiple instances freezing and then heat. Not red hot heat mind you, just enough to change the metals at a different rate from the thermoset material.

    Good discussion linked below and you’ve nothing to lose and everything to gain by calling Brownells and asking who there might have knowledge / experience with successful techniques.

    Reference the JASCO stuff mentioned in the below discussion, read all directions carefully! By setting the slide on its side and continually (gradually slowly repeatedly) applying enough so that it “wicks” into between the mount and the slide may get you there but, it would be an ex er is in patience and days if not weeks.

    Fingers crossed the freezing / DIY-cryo gets you there!

    https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/how-to-break-the-bond-of-acraglas-gel.615690/


    ETA: reference a gunsmith, 2 items:

    1) if your going to pay a gunsmith you may want to consider paying one to simply fit a new slide and barrel link to the frame (Personally, I would go with a new slide and barrel ...)

    2) No indication of your location - where are you located? (May helps others recommend a good gun / pistol smith
     

    Skipjacks

    Ultimate Member
    I agree about getting a new slide. No matter what happens with that one it is going to look trashed when you get that thing off

    It is probably best to go with a used slide because 1) cheaper and 2) will match the rest of the frame better

    A brand new slide would look out of place
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,577
    Harford County, Maryland
    Good suggestions.

    You may also consider soaking area in Kroil for a day or two. Support and secure the slide with the muzzle end flat on a piece of hardwood, except for no contact of the mount to the hardwood. Then shape the end of a good sized brass punch to cover the end of the mount. Place the punch against the breech end of the mount and hit it the punch with a hammer. Many adhesives don’t do well against shearing forces and this may knock the mount loose.

    I just purchased a slide online which was drilled and tapped for a what I thought was Clark scope mount pattern. The mount is gone but it looks like Acraglass was used to bed the mount. No damage to the slide other than the adhesive being on it. I had a Clark mount in the box which aligned with the holes. The only reason I bought it was because I recognized the slide as a Baer or Caspian part with no abuse to it. Plus the price was irresistible. I plan on doing a proper bedding then mount a mini dot on it. I don’t care for optics but the eyes are getting moody.
     
    Last edited:

    Shamr0ck

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 6, 2011
    2,505
    Frederick
    Not sure where you are located, but my first call for 1911 work is John Carduner. MDS Trikshot.

    Walt Frear at triggerdoctor.com does impeccable work and is located out in southern Frederick county.

    Tim Hafer has also done fantastic work for me on several pistols. He is located between Clearspring and hagerstown. Hafersguns.com


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    Horseman308

    Active Member
    Jan 27, 2016
    222
    Not sure where you are located, but my first call for 1911 work is John Carduner. MDS Trikshot.

    Walt Frear at triggerdoctor.com does impeccable work and is located out in southern Frederick county.

    Tim Hafer has also done fantastic work for me on several pistols. He is located between Clearspring and hagerstown. Hafersguns.com


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    Great info. Thanks! I'm in Severn, so all of those are convenient-ish.

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    Horseman308

    Active Member
    Jan 27, 2016
    222
    Victory! There's a film of epoxy or some such over the top and filling the whole dovetail, but there was no actual damage to the slide. I simply missed two screws that looked more like empty holes. A few seconds with the torch loosened them up nicely. I don't think filing the epoxy out.of the dovetail will be too bad.
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