cleaning agents & ammo

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  • offroaD

    Active Member
    Jun 1, 2011
    566
    I know there is a classic rule that cleaning chemicals and ammo don't go together, but when this is said, what is assumed? That you have ammo laying around on a desk next to an open bottle of hoppes #9, and to prevent a spillage of the chemical all over the ammo? I ask because I'm curious to if it will be okay for me to store my cleaning stuff in a safe along with my ammo and gun. It's a small safe. 16"x16". I have all my cleaning equipment on the shelf and my ammo and and gun on the ground level. I know this may be coming off as a paranoid post, but Im sure you can understand how I wouldnt want anything to go wrong considering I have about 100 rounds in there.

    Also, I have a revolver, and when I clean it, I clean everything inside and out everytime I shoot it. In the process a small amount of the cleaning agents remain on the cylinder walls: just because it happens and because it's good practice to prevent corrosion. Generally, before I go to bed I load the gun. In the mornings when I wake up there is always a residue of the cleaning agents on the bullets. I try to wipe them off but I can't say I really put in an effort. is this going to be a long term issue?
     

    lx1x

    Peanut Gallery
    Apr 19, 2009
    26,992
    Maryland
    Hoppes 9 has brass/ lead remover in it. You may notice a bit of tarnish on your rounds. If you load it in a wet chamber. Dry your gun an use gun oil to protect from rust.

    Having the cleaner and ammo in the same safe but apart. Will not do anything.
     
    Last edited:

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,678
    AA county
    Also, I have a revolver, and when I clean it, I clean everything inside and out everytime I shoot it. In the process a small amount of the cleaning agents remain on the cylinder walls: just because it happens and because it's good practice to prevent corrosion. Generally, before I go to bed I load the gun. In the mornings when I wake up there is always a residue of the cleaning agents on the bullets. I try to wipe them off but I can't say I really put in an effort. is this going to be a long term issue?

    A dry patch should go through any barrel, chamber or cylinder after cleaning. Followed by one with rust preventative as the last step (ex. light oil) before putting a firearm away. Unless you are using a CLP-like product.
     

    offroaD

    Active Member
    Jun 1, 2011
    566
    so I just want to verify that my understanding at this point is correct. Hoppes #9 acts as a cleaner and a lubricant, correct? So if I shoot my smith regularly then I can just clean using hops and all is good. But, should the 686 see long term storage then I should clean it, wipe it down, then use some sort of oil to prevent rust?
     

    lx1x

    Peanut Gallery
    Apr 19, 2009
    26,992
    Maryland
    so I just want to verify that my understanding at this point is correct. Hoppes #9 acts as a cleaner and a lubricant, correct? So if I shoot my smith regularly then I can just clean using hops and all is good. But, should the 686 see long term storage then I should clean it, wipe it down, then use some sort of oil to prevent rust?

    depends... hoppes 9 is just a name.. do you have the solvent or something else? i know they make lubricants too..

    http://www.hoppes.com/products/solvents.html
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,678
    AA county
    so I just want to verify that my understanding at this point is correct. Hoppes #9 acts as a cleaner and a lubricant, correct? So if I shoot my smith regularly then I can just clean using hops and all is good. But, should the 686 see long term storage then I should clean it, wipe it down, then use some sort of oil to prevent rust?

    After doing a little research it looks like the original Hoppes 9 solvent is marketed as a solvent and rust remover and they say it can be used to prevent rust. I found nothing about any lubricating properties.
     

    offroaD

    Active Member
    Jun 1, 2011
    566
    I looked at my bottle and it says solvent. I did some research my self and I see my error now. When I bought the cleaning kit, it came with a small bottle that said it cleans and lubricates. This made me assume that all solvents had this property. I guess it really wasn't a solvent. Good thing I havn't shot the 686 since I got the hoppes #9. Some lubrication is on the way then!

    My next question is, why do people say not to use brass to clean guns? I understand brass is a metal and there is a risk of scratching the gun metal, but how likely is this on a stainless steel gun? I remember I was cleaning the area where the serial number is, and I couldnt help but to notice how the brass was coming off to the gun. This shows that the gun is scratching the brass, not the other way around. For the barrel I can understand how you might want to take the safest route, but as long as you push straight all the way through what are the chances of scratching the barrel? Last time I cleaned my gun I was very generous with hoppes #9 solvent in the barrel, and it didnt make much of a difference. Using the brass I was able to make the bore very clean. Is my like to using brass to clean the gun a bad habbit? It just seems like nothing else will clean as good, and I did let the solvent sit for a good 30-40 minutes before I start cleaning
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,678
    AA county
    I looked at my bottle and it says solvent. I did some research my self and I see my error now. When I bought the cleaning kit, it came with a small bottle that said it cleans and lubricates. This made me assume that all solvents had this property. I guess it really wasn't a solvent. Good thing I havn't shot the 686 since I got the hoppes #9. Some lubrication is on the way then!

    My next question is, why do people say not to use brass to clean guns? I understand brass is a metal and there is a risk of scratching the gun metal, but how likely is this on a stainless steel gun? I remember I was cleaning the area where the serial number is, and I couldnt help but to notice how the brass was coming off to the gun. This shows that the gun is scratching the brass, not the other way around. For the barrel I can understand how you might want to take the safest route, but as long as you push straight all the way through what are the chances of scratching the barrel? Last time I cleaned my gun I was very generous with hoppes #9 solvent in the barrel, and it didnt make much of a difference. Using the brass I was able to make the bore very clean. Is my like to using brass to clean the gun a bad habbit? It just seems like nothing else will clean as good, and I did let the solvent sit for a good 30-40 minutes before I start cleaning

    Are you talking about a bore-brush? If so, most gun cleaning solvents contain ammonia and ammonia will react with brass.

    With a good modern gun cleaning product I find that I almost never have to use a bore brush. I just run a patch on a slotted patch with solvent through the bore and let it sit for a few minutes. (All patches go in one end, ideally the receiver, and out and are removed on the other end. )While I do that I clean the receiver and bolt with some solvent and the chamber with a plastic chamber brush wrapped in a large patch soaked in cleaner. Then I push a a few tight fitting dry patches on a solid jag through the bore. It usually takes only two or three before they come out clean. Then I run a patch with EEZOX or light oil on a patch in a slotted jag through the bore. Wipe the rest of the metal with EEZOX and put away. The next day wipe off any EEZOX that hasn't dried.
     

    offroaD

    Active Member
    Jun 1, 2011
    566
    Yup, bore brush for the barrel and cylinders, and a small brush for other areas like the top of where the barrel meets the cylinder.

    Why is the receiver side more ideal? I've always gone the other way just for the ease.
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,678
    AA county
    Yup, bore brush for the barrel and cylinders, and a small brush for other areas like the top of where the barrel meets the cylinder.

    Why is the receiver side more ideal? I've always gone the other way just for the ease.

    If you clean from the muzzle then it gets out of round and sloppy. You want a clean perpendicular transition from the bore. That is why firearms are re-crowned. In a revolver you don't have a choice unless it's a top-break.
     

    offroaD

    Active Member
    Jun 1, 2011
    566
    I didn't know it would get out of round over time(if this is what you're saying), but in a s&w 686 cleaning guide I read it did mention being careful not to scrape the muzzle as it would screw the accuracy so I've been very careful with that. I always go in easy and carefully.
     

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