A family member returned from the range yesterday with my Anderson AR10 and reported the following problem: after seating a fresh mag and closing the bolt, he pulled the trigger and had a fail to fire. Cycling the bolt and loading a fresh round successfully ran the remainder of the mag. Each time first round in the mag. Firing my reloads. The cartridges showed a veeeeeery slight dimple, indicating the firing pin contacted the primer but did not set it off. Military brass. Primer is set at proper depth. CCI large rifle primers. He had issues on a total of 3 of 150 rounds during this particular shooting session. When I take down the rifle, what should I be looking for? I'm thinking firing pin and channel, but a slow pin would have affected any round in the mag, not just the first.
AR10 fail to fire
- Thread starter ras_oscar
- Start date
The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast
Member Benefits:
No ad networks! Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership Discuss anti-gun legislation Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses Discover free outdoor shooting areas View up to date on firearm-related events Share photos & video with other members ...and so much more!
Member Benefits:
Very slight dimple just means that your bolt's firing pin touched it when the round was pushed into battery. This is normal behavior for an AR-308 since it has a free-floating firing pin. It is not necessarily indicative of a light strike.
Question: did you buddy drop the release on the full mag, or did he close the bolt, insert mag, and then rack? Simplest explanation here is that your buddy didn't rack the CH far enough back to reset the hammer. Next explanation would be that your disconnector spring is in backwards. Past that... not sure. But I doubt it's the FP / FP channel with the behavior you're describing.
Question: did you buddy drop the release on the full mag, or did he close the bolt, insert mag, and then rack? Simplest explanation here is that your buddy didn't rack the CH far enough back to reset the hammer. Next explanation would be that your disconnector spring is in backwards. Past that... not sure. But I doubt it's the FP / FP channel with the behavior you're describing.
OK, this is one I should have thought of, because it happened to me. If you are not reloading with a 308 small base sizer die, or haven't set your normal 308 FL sizer die correctly, it could be that your round is flat-out not going into battery because of chambering issues. I had a lot of trouble with the first round in some guns, but subsequent rounds chambered fine because they were basically getting smashed in.
danb
dont be a dumbass
this.
i dropped each of the 3 offending rounds into my Lyman .308 case gage. They dropped in flat and dropped out by gravity alone.
Each time he dropped the bolt on a fresh mag from the previous mag lockback. I asked him to describe the failure. He did say one of the 3 FTFs were very hard to pull out. Perhaps smashing it into the chamber acted as a sizing die to correct a base that was too wide? Even if that did happen, the pin is still in correct proximity to the primer, should have gone off. Yes?
Last edited:
danb
dont be a dumbass
I have never ever used the forward assist on my AR15s. In fact, I have two rifles that dont even have one, and I have never had a problem.
TheOriginalMexicanBob
Ultimate Member
Eugene Stoner said the forward assist was unnecessary but the Army insisted upon it...the 1903 had a bolt that acted as a forward assist...the M1 Garand had its op-rod which acted as a forward assist so the Army powers-that-be said the M16 needed it. To the degree the Army insisted upon propellant that Stoner said was wrong for the rifle the forward assist was needed. As Stoner insisted...if the Army used the powder the rifle was designed to use the forward assist was completely unnecessary.
onedash
Ultimate Member
Some do
As a typical weapon of war it doesn’t need it.
That said I love mine for hunting. It’s neigh impossible to chamber a round quietly without one. Now you could just do that before hitting the field. But I ain’t hauling my rifle up a tree with one in the pipe, good safety or not good safety.
There are a few edge cases were it is also needed/helpful even or especially in a war time scenario. If it gets submerged you need to drain the water back out. Unless you want to rack it, set the bolt hold open, wait a couple seconds and then drop the bolt you are stuck pulling the charging handle back slightly, releasing it and then slapping the forward assist.
Users who are viewing this thread
Latest posts
-
-
SB 1097 Likely rewritten to eliminate QHIC HQL Wear and Carry instructors (6 Viewers)- Latest: rbird7282
-
Forum statistics
Latest threads
-
-
-
Holosun DRS-NV (Digital Rifle Sight-Night Vision) In Stock (3 Viewers)- Started by MDElite
- Replies: 1
-
-
MD DNR Outdoor Recreation Survey -- Outdoorsman Responses Needed (1 Viewer)
- Started by Derwood
- Replies: 5
-
Why did ATF make the Form 4 process faster?- Started by John from MD
- Replies: 13
-