YOUR ideal EDC folding knife? What features/characteristics do you look for? do tell.

So you are looking for your ideal folding knife...let's say that price is not of a huge concern, nor is legality. What characteristics and features would make it the best knife for you?


Size of Handle? (overall length, closed)

Length of Blade?

Blade Steel? --stainless vs. tool steel? Higher hardness to favor edge retention, or lower hardness to favor impact resistance and ease of sharpening?--440A, M2 HSS, 440C, M4, 154, S7, S30V, S35VN, D2, 3V, A2, 390, AUS6/8/10, S90V, S110V, Elmax, etc.? (Rockwell Hardness ranging from around 50 to 75, with more common blades between 57 - 63)?

Blade Locking Mechanism? --liner lock, frame lock, omega spring/ball bearing top locks like Benchmade's AXIS, automatic plunge lock, top/compression lock, top spine/back lock, etc.?

Blade Grind? /// Blade Type? /// Edge? --flat, hollow, wedge, saber, etc.? /// Spear point, clip point, utility point, drop point, Bowie, hawkbill/reverse S-curve, upswept tip, wide belly, leaf shape, true tanto, Americanized tanto, wharncliffe, etc.? /// straight edge, partially serrated, fully serrated blade, etc.?

Blade Thickness? --.08-ish - .175-ish inches?

Blade Angle? --25-ish - 45-ish degrees?

Overall Weight? --(ounces)

Handle Material? --stainless, G10, FRN/Zytel/other polymer, titanium, carbon fiber, wood, micarta, exotic materials, etc.?

Opening Mechanism? --hole, oval, stud, assisted, auto push-button, OTF, flipper on the handle, omega spring lock such as AXIS to allow the 'swing', etc.?

Pocket Clip?-- tip up, tip down, LH, RH, low-rise, etc.?

Warranty? / Discounts / Perks of Buying?

Price?

Other Considerations?





I look for my EDC to be a 3 inch uncoated blade with a 3.5-ish thick handle, a frame lock with treated lock bar, an easy steel to sharpen with high impact resistance like S35VN at 59-ish or CPM-3V, .125 - .150 inch thick blade, 30-ish degrees edge for easy sharpening on a SharpMaker, EdgePro, or flat wetstone, with an overall weight under 3.5 oz, titanium G10, peel ply carbon fiber, and micarta, stud or hole for opening, and low-rise pocket clip with lanyard, tip down. I've also come to love PB washers (versus plastic) with perforations to retain lube and keep elements out. I also prefer something that can be detail stripped down to every to be cleaned and sharpened, plus be easy to put back together and that taking down does not void the warranty...hence my love of the CRK Sebenza (daily EDC is a Small Unique Graphic 21) and similar knives like Benchmade's Mini-Skirmish, Spyderco's ti-Sage, Kershaw Cyclone, Zero Tolerance's smaller folders, etc., plus a lot of Benchmade and Spyderco folders of numerous different steels, handles, locks, etc.



So what things do you want your ideal EDC to have?

tough crowd

Size of Handle? (overall length, closed) 5", should not have hot spots, but should have good texture. I actually realllly like the feel of the ontario RAT handle. I do wish the space between the finger stop and the beginning of the blade was smaller. I want the blade to start right on the other side of the finger stop. I also want to have a cutout to both lock my index finger from moving towards the blade and one behind my pinky to keep the handle in my hand. I want the balance of the blade just behind the index cutout. It shouldn't have a hump from the handle to the back of the blade...it should melt seamlessly and have some form of jimping for your thumb to rest on. The blade should be relatively thick there too so your thumb has surface area to push on. The knife shouldn't be too wide from side to side or from blade to backspacer so you can carry it easier. My contego is much easier to carry than my benchmade bone collector just because of a slight reduction in handle scale thickness.

Length of Blade? 4"

Blade Steel? cpm-m4 62-64 hrc. I've got knives in 154cpm, vg10, s30v, aus-8, d2, 440a/b/c, and a variety of other steels.

Blade Locking Mechanism? I don't really like liner locks, I'm highly interested in compression locks but don't have that much experience with them, but I reallly like the axis locks. They're strong and all, but I really just like them for how easy they are to open and close one-handed. I can have my contego open, cut something, and closed in under 2 seconds with one hand.

Blade Grind? /// Blade Type? /// Edge? I love full flat ground blades. They just slice so well, while still being pretty strong. I'd steal the blade from the manix2xl. I'd add an emmerson wave on the back.

Blade Thickness? the .125" of the manix blade seems thick enough. cpm-m4 is damned tough stuff and can handle a thinner blade without any weakness.

Blade Angle? --15 on each side for the initial edge, just microbevel from there until it's time to reshape.

Overall Weight? --6 ounces or so

Handle Material? --g10. It's tough, grippy and does well with a variety of chemicals and settings.

Opening Mechanism? emerson wave and spydie hole, no assist

Pocket Clip?--tip up on the right side

Warranty? / Discounts / Perks of Buying? I get it for free with a lifetime warranty and also I get a 3-way with miranda kerr and mila kunis

Price? free....but under $200 would be cool too

Other Considerations? I'd want a pivot like the kvt ball system, that sumbitch is smooth. I'd also like to have the blade coated in a DLC type coating to help m4 not corrode....although my contego hasn't really shown a problem with corrosion since I take care of it pretty well.

I'm still searching for the ideal EDC folder, thanks for posting this; I've already learned a lot from you, smokey, and a few others here. Never considered myself a knife guy, but I do appreciate them more now, both technically and aesthetically.

I'm liking blades with a softer spine, harder edge. Hollow or flat ground, classic spear tip (for EDC), 3" blade is about right, up to 4" works well. I want something that had a very strong lock; and as much overlap of the blade into the handle as possible (again for strength).

The SOG Vulcan gets close to my ideal.

Smith & Wesson Black Ops assisted opening with serrated tanto blade. Love it. Carry it every day. Opens really fast and super sharp.

I like the Griptilian with the thumbhole opener. I also am really fond of my new Lone Wolf Mini-Landslide. It's not made at Benchmade but the quality is still really nice.

Unfortunately I fly so much and spend so much time going into secure buildings that I just won't carry a nice knife. I am just too darn forgetful and know it would only be a (brief) matter of time before I forgot about it and ended up in a trash can.

I usually carry a large folder, and a compact multi tool, sometimes a fixed blade depending on what I am doing.

I like a knife around 9" OAL, blade of 3.5-4", long and a broad 1.25_1.5" width. I like the option of plain edge or full serrated, on a fixed a plain edge with serrated spine ala BM375 represents something special, that a filder can't have. The handle should have a nice deep finger choil for safety and control, comfortable wide controllable grip, subtle thumb ramp, good jimping, grippy scale texture without being sharp or rough, edges rounded, a radius ala ZT's 3D machined handles have an awesome feel at some minor expense to thickness. It should feel locked into your grip without being uncomfortable. Pillar construction keeps it light, but a backspacer aids comfort, especially on the handle side of the thumb ramp. For a fixed blade a good sheath is a requirement, leather, plastic or a hybrid, should lock the blade in securely, should have belt loops for vertical and horizontal carry, a removable snap loop on the front for IWB carry is a definite bonus. A clip should be secure, but long enough to be "springy", deep carry can be nice, but a clip that keeps a little handle proud makes a knife easier to draw, especially with a wave feature, tip up strong side is my preference.

Steel should fit the purpouse of the blade, M4 is an awesome steel, but probably wouldn't be ideal on a diving knife due to corrosion. I think S30V is a good starting point for a good knife, good edge retension, good corrosion resistance, tough, and enough improvement over Aus8, 440C and 154CM that an average user might see a benefit. I really like the Elmax in my 561, it is a well rounded steel like S30V, but improves upon it, really tough, corrosion resistant, takes a finer edge, and holds it longer, all without being tough to sharpen. M390 seems to be the next step up, although I don't have experience with it, m4 is awesome, Smokey's contego is a razor, and holds an edge forever, S90V is another highly wear resistant premium steel. Edge angle like steel should fit the purpose, shape and materials, I use my knife as a knife, n9t a prybar or screwdriver, so a 20 degree edge and 17 degree relief is fi e for me.

A lock goes with construction and the opening mechanism, all need to compliment each other. Ti framelocks are easy to use and strong, but Axis, or ball bearing locks are stronger, don't leave edges on the handle, and inherently ambi. For an opening method, I like flippers with AO or KVT or a wave best, easy and fast to open, given the choice between studs or a hole, I prefer the hole, it doesn't bind up on material being cut, although studs that double as blade stops stay out of the way well enough. I am not a fan of wide plates or buttons instead of studs, they bind in material worse than studs.

For blade geometry Spyderco's leaf shapa ala Manix XL is probably my favorite, stong sharp tip that broadens quickly, blade is all belly and slices well, with FFG it is a strong design and excellent slicer or piercer with minimum weight. A blade doesn't neccesarily need to be FFG, I like a good hollow grind, but in any shape the grind should extend at minimum 3/4 of the way to the spine, any less, and you are sacrificing slicing ability and the number of times you can resharpen it for gains in strength you really don't need. Around .125 to .150 is good for a durable blade. Handle materials are primarily G10 and titanium, carbon fiber looks cool, but usually isn't grippy. I like torx stainless hardware and a bearing system, oversized phosphor bronze bushings can be good, provided they are smooth and have metal on both sides of both bushings. A lifetime defect warranty is the gold standard, cheap blade replacement is a huge plus as benchmade and KAI have. Price to me must represent value, I would pay $300+ for a special blade with everything I want, or a cost appropriate for the design and materials.

At this time, I've found - and carry - my ideal EDC knife: Benchmade 942. Partially serrated, black blade and handle, axis lock. Just the right size for what I need to do with it.

I can envision carrying a bigger knife at times, but this one works fine right now.

I have come to appreciate comfort. I don't notice my Broker at all. It is big enough to be a real knife for heavy use. The AUS8 blade is strong and the frame lock is solid. I have also become a fan of the speed bump opening as well.

Size of Handle? 4.5"

Length of Blade? 3.75"

Blade Steel? Infi (I've always wanted to see a folder made by Busse using infi steel, to my knowledge there isn't one so far)

Blade Locking Mechanism? Axis lock with a safety (ie barrage 580) along with an additional liner lock inside, this would require to hands two close, and add a great level of redundancy, but what the hell, this is a dream knife right?

Blade? full flat ground ///drop point/// straight edge

Blade Thickness? .16"

Blade Angle? 20 degrees

Overall Weight? 5 some ounces

Handle Material? stainless, milled liner with thin g10 scales and partial pillar construction (the safety would get in the way of full pillar construction)

Opening Mechanism? flipper (non-assisted opening ie Benchmade 300), and a .33" thumbhole; strong detente

Pocket Clip? tip up, deep pocket carry

Other Considerations? I understand that due to the blade length this is a large edc knife, but this is a dream knife after all.

YOUR ideal EDC folding knife? What features/characteristics do you look for? do tell

NickZac said:

So you are looking for your ideal folding knife...let's say that price is not of a huge concern, nor is legality. What characteristics and features would make it the best knife.

Sgt Preston here, OK I'll play along...

Size of Handle? = 3.5" Closed = Overall length

Length of Blade? = 2.25"

Blade Steel? = Stainless 420HC Rockwell Hardness 60

Blade Locking Mechanism? = Liner Lock

Blade Grind? /// Blade Type? /// Edge? = clip point, hollow ground, partially serrated

Blade Thickness? = .120"?

Blade Angle? = 25 degrees?

Overall Weight? = 2.3 oz

Handle Material? = 410 stainless.

Opening Mechanism = assisted, flipper on the handle.

Pocket Clip? = tip down, RH.

Price = $35.00 Wal-Mart in 2008 $46.00 in 2103

Other Considerations = Made in USA. Kershaw Item #1620GRYST

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/KS1620FLST/kershaw-1620flst-scallion-assisted-2-14-combo-blade-silver-aluminum-handles

Click to expand...

I found my ideal knife many yeas ago. I like a nice grip about 4 inches long or even a bit more, as rounded in cross section as possible. like simple, a lock is not really necessary but nice. In 1982 I bought my first Opinel, and have been using them ever since. Once in a while I buy another knife for a change, and carry it for a while. Then the novelty wears off and I just go back to carrying an Opinel. I use the number 8 stainless for general pocket carry, a number 12 stainless in a kitchen drawer, a number 12 carbon in my day pack as a woods knife, and a number 6 with a walnut handle for my downtown D.C. knife.

Most times, 9 times out of 10 it's an Opinel in my pocket. To me, it's the ideal knife to carry. insanely light weight for it's size, cuts great, has a blade lock if you want to use it, and makes a great friction folder.

Spyderco Native 5 is the perfect size and shape for my medium-sized hands. Always on me. S30V leaf blade, full steel liner, G10 grip, not loo light or heavy, made in USA. Beefy and solid without being bulky.

Size of Handle? 4.5-5.5

Length of Blade? 3.5-4.25

Blade Steel? cpm154, 154cm, D2, CPM M4, CPM s30v, S35VN, AUS8, VG10, ATS34.

Blade Locking Mechanism? Button lock, axis lock, frame lock

Blade Grind? /// Blade Type? /// Edge? Case by case basis, even designs that I have hated in the past end up in my posession(contego) after I handle them and evaluate their characteristics.

Blade Thickness? Thicker the better. .21 on my Dendra tiger jump is really nice but it is not a deal breaker.

Blade Angle? No preferrence

Overall Weight? No preference

Handle Material? Titanium, G10, Micarta, Carbon fiber,

Opening Mechanism? Flipper, thumb stud as long as there is enough room to operate it fast or auto.

Pocket Clip? Just needs to have one preferrably tip down but not a deal breaker.

Warranty? Don't care. It is a tool and will get the crap beat out of it.

Price? Preferably under 200 but it really depends on the knife.

Other Considerations? Glass breaker, fasteners, backspacing type, lanyard hole.

i've carried a variety of knives over the years and can't say i've used blade length, thickness, angle, grind or handle length as deciding factors in a purchase (okay maybe blade length )

i prefer;

-one hand opening (doesnt need to be assisted but something about the sound of one snapping open appeals to me )

- liner lock for one handed closing

- pocket clip (no preference to tip up or down)

- blade material... anything considered "good quality"

- under $100 it IS my edc and i have been known to lose or abuse these things. dont want to go broke replacing it.


the spyderco manix2 has been on my wish list for a really long time but for now i'm content to stick with my current edc, the leatherman wave with added pocket clip. i'm enjoying the extra functionality multitools provide.

also eagerly awaiting the esee izula folder to hit the market!
http://jungletraining.com/izula-folder.htm

My favorite EDC is the SOG Flash II Aluminum Handle, Par Serrated.

Blade Length 3.5" x .125"
Overall Length 8"
Weight4.2 oz.
Edge Partially Serrated
Steel AUS 8 HRC 57-58
Handle Hard Anodized Aluminum Finish Satin
Assembled in the USA

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41GHCEAptpL._SX_.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LKZ_HXRHBk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I've carried a Case "Medium Stockman" every day (except when I fly) for the last 30+ years.

I have carried (since 9/11/2001) a Benchmade "Mini AFCK" that's razor sharp.
(I wish I had 5 more of these wonderful knives!)

This one serves my needs. It's sharp as hell, keeps an edge, is lightweight, fits in my hand, and I can open it up with one hand. All of this love for $59.99.

The criteria for my EDC locking folder :

1. Manual action - no springs or complicated deployment mechanism to break.
2. Not too expensive if I lose or damage it.
3. Some sort of traction plan, jimping, finger choil, and either FRN or G10. No slippery stainless steel.
4 Plain edge - no serrations.
5. Handle between 4.5 and 5 inches.
6. Blade length between 3.5 and 4 inches.
7. Slim profile.
8. Blade width >= 1 inch.
9. No blade wiggle.
10. Decent belly on the blade.

I go back and forth between a Spyderco Tenacious and an Ontario Rat 1.