ISO : 1.25" Auger Bit

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  • FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,028
    For framing wood poles hardware is usually 5/8" or 3/4". Transmission equipment is 3/4 to 7/8. Bolts are usually soft drawn so they can stretch or bend easily without breaking. 5/8 is by far the most common and will hold the world.
    The HF wood bits shown will do the job inexpensively but you have to have an impact gun with the hex bit adapter.

    The trick is to not drive them to quickly because the worn on the end of the bit does the work. When you hit a knot, drive a bolt into the tree just enough to allow the worm a new purchase vs increasing the speed and pushing harder on the drill or brace which will just burn the bit up.

    I can get galvanized pole hardware out the wazoo if you need some.
    When I used to cable trees, I was taught to always use galvanized hardware. It prevents rust from forming from the damaged wood and allows the tree to grow back tightly to the jlags or eye-bolts that were used.

    When we used to climb and frame with a brace and bit a 5/8 bit was the obvious choice. With a hydraulic gun or gas drill a 13/16 bit is used to prevent fatigue when your in rubber.

    On big wood or black jack southern pine we often bored a pilot hole with a brace and bit to make the job easier.
    Wood boring equipment was treated like gold and always oiled and stored correctly.
    Hydraulic lineman these days don't even know how to sharpen a bit. They just bitch and holler they need a new one.

    Make sure you you have a safety when you go up, most fatal falls occur at 6 foot or less.

    Thank you for that.

    The hardware into the tree is galvanized. Not sure if HDG or mechanical, etc. You have access to 1.25 inch lags ??? They are tough to come by.

    Looks like a purchase from Amazon. Hoping my drills can handle the job.. if not Home Depot has a right angle drill, corded for twenty bucks for four hours.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    Most lags are either 5/8x3 in either two types. A slow helix which is known as an easy out. (has a pilot tip) Or non interupted threads 5/8 x3. They are plenty good for supporting heavy cross-arms or other pole related equipment but for a tree house the cargo is much more precious. I would drill and then bolt through with at least 2 1/4 washers. I can get flat, for up to a stringer and have curved for the other side. 5/8 bolts will hold thousands of pounds at the face of the wood and the supporting material.
    I come through Annapolis all the time and can get my hands on up to 26 and 36" bolts. They are malleable and easy to cut with a hack saw.
    I used to build completely enclosed 5x6 treestands with 2x6 boards for the decks and just use a 5/8 bolt bored through the tree. The deck would be attached to a wood cross-arm and then the first stringer attached to the face with 4 3/8 galvanized carriage bolts then screwed across the top.

    Hope Im using the right construction terminology here, I know how to build power lines not build with wood very well. Unless y0u want to checker, inlet carve or splice a gun stock or something.
    Ill take some pictures of some framing hardware and if you can use it, just let me know.
     

    FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,028
    Not a power auger? It is a hand crank?


    My shipment arrives tomorrow. One 18" Milwuakee Ship Auger, 7/16 shank, 1 1/4". Also a 1 7/8", 1/2" drive socket.

    Run it with my M12 Fuel drill .. I think it will do well. The M18 Fuel high torque with pin detent will do the driving.

    Today I picked up damaged 4x6s in 12 feet to start the tribeams.

    This is all overkill for the footprint I intend. Maybe rethink and suspend a hot tub in the trees.
     

    GuitarmanNick

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 9, 2017
    2,221
    Laurel
    Be careful if you decide to use an auger bit. I have years of experience drilling with them and even so, once badly dislocated my left thumb when the bit stopped and the drill kept going. What I learned from that is not to wrap my thumbs around the handles on any drill. The one I was using was 7/8" x 18" and was about 12" through and 18" beam when my day was ruined!
     

    FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,028
    Be careful if you decide to use an auger bit. I have years of experience drilling with them and even so, once badly dislocated my left thumb when the bit stopped and the drill kept going. What I learned from that is not to wrap my thumbs around the handles on any drill. The one I was using was 7/8" x 18" and was about 12" through and 18" beam when my day was ruined!

    Thanks!
     

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