Pre WWII P38 Magazines - where to get

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  • cyrano_oneone

    Active Member
    Dec 15, 2011
    308
    Columbia, MD
    I am looking for magazines for a pre WWII p38.

    The ones on midwayusa and brownells have low ratings.

    Are there any other sources?

    thanks
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    33,107
    Just to be on the same page, are you seeking * Pre WWII Magazines * , or functional magazines for Pre WWII P-38 pistol ?
     

    Threeband

    The M1 Does My Talking
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 30, 2006
    25,291
    Carroll County
    There can't be many of either.

    But if you're shopping Midway and Brownells, it sounds like you're looking for range mags, not museum pieces.
     

    Threeband

    The M1 Does My Talking
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 30, 2006
    25,291
    Carroll County
    It looks like cdnn has postwar surplus magazines for $20. They have them in blue and phosphate. My p-1 doesn’t feed Remington ammunition reliably.

    https://www.cdnnsports.com/walther-p38-p1-9mm-8rd-phosphate-with-banner-mag.html

    https://www.cdnnsports.com/walther-p38-p1-9mm-8rd-blue-with-banner-mag.html

    Try Winchester White Box.

    I know of a Russian Capture P38 that never once has malfunctioned with WWB, and never once has fed three rounds of Remington without a failure to feed.

    The difference is amazing.
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,730
    If you have a pre-WWII P.38, that's not something that should be a range toy (if it's matching and original).
    What exactly do you have? An early (Swedish, etc) Mod HP or a Zero series?

    The OAL of the Remington 9x19 isn't quite the same and causes hiccups in the P1/P.38.
     

    KH195

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 10, 2013
    1,551
    Virginia
    If you have a pre-WWII P.38, that's not something that should be a range toy (if it's matching and original).
    What exactly do you have? An early (Swedish, etc) Mod HP or a Zero series?

    The OAL of the Remington 9x19 isn't quite the same and causes hiccups in the P1/P.38.

    ^ This right here...I’m far from an expert on P.38s (somd_mustangs is probably as good as it gets) but I know enough that I likely wouldn’t be taking an original pre-WWII P.38 to the range. Curious as to what you have as well!
     

    Neutron

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 20, 2014
    1,538
    severna park
    I thought the P38 came out during the war but not brfore. It was supposed to be a replacement for the more expensive and difficult to manufacture Luger from what I understand. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,730
    The first P.38's were manufactured by Walther in mid 1939 / early 1940 (1st & 2nd variation Zero series),
    The commercial Mod HP was available in late 1939/early 1940 hence my question on what it is :)
    The early Mod HP in particular is superbly finished and fitted. Most of the first Mod HP's went to Sweden.
    Spreewerk started production in mid-1942, and Mauser got in the act in very late 1942.

    Not surprisingly the early Walthers up thru 1940 can be quite valuable, some in the $5-10k range.

    The WW2 P.38 has a weak slide and lock block, both of which can fail, so if it is any kind of decent original + matched pistol it's not wise to shoot it from a value standpoint. The best (and most robust) of both worlds is a post-war "fat slide" and post-war forged lock block mounted on a WW2 frame.
     

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,331
    HoCo
    Too bad Chantilly sucks now adays, that is where I got my spare P1 mags. They work fine in my P38 also
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,730
    There are always a metric crap-ton of post-war P1/P38 mags on evilPay too.
    I wouldn't mess with aftermarket, buy the Walther-made magazines.
    They have better followers, stronger bodies, etc.
     

    Neutron

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 20, 2014
    1,538
    severna park
    The first P.38's were manufactured by Walther in mid 1939 / early 1940 (1st & 2nd variation Zero series),
    The commercial Mod HP was available in late 1939/early 1940 hence my question on what it is :)
    The early Mod HP in particular is superbly finished and fitted. Most of the first Mod HP's went to Sweden.
    Spreewerk started production in mid-1942, and Mauser got in the act in very late 1942.

    Not surprisingly the early Walthers up thru 1940 can be quite valuable, some in the $5-10k range.

    The WW2 P.38 has a weak slide and lock block, both of which can fail, so if it is any kind of decent original + matched pistol it's not wise to shoot it from a value standpoint. The best (and most robust) of both worlds is a post-war "fat slide" and post-war forged lock block mounted on a WW2 frame.

    I have a Mauser 1944 vintage. So not wise to shoot it once in a while? I reload 9mm so I could load some bunny fart loads that should be all right, don't ya think?
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,730
    I have a Mauser 1944 vintage. So not wise to shoot it once in a while? I reload 9mm so I could load some bunny fart loads that should be all right, don't ya think?

    Up to you, just weigh the pros and cons. At the very least have fresh springs in it.
    https://www.gunsprings.com/WALTHER/P-38, P-5, P-5 COMPACT/cID1/mID70/dID306
    Don't put heavier than stock recoil springs in. I'm not saying every P.38 is going to disintegrate, but folks should look into it, understand the risks, and make an informed decision before shooting a collectible WW2 P.38. One of the examples in the referenced link below that failed was a rare (and expensive, like $6K+) 480 code.

    Have to sign in to see the pics but some real-life stories...
    http://p38forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28671

    The two most common failures are cracks that start at the square cuts in the frame rail where the lock block engages, and the "bridge" at the front failing. The pedestals where the recoil guide pins rest can also fail.

    Winchester White Box 115gr FMJ seems to be the best all around.
     

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