Interior Coating for Completed 80% AR Lower

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  • teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    You won't save a dime doing them as 80s. I keep looking at the 80% glocks but it ends up being more than a factory Glock. The 1911s seem to end up about the same for an 80 and a good quality factory gun.

    “Build 80 percents to save money!”
    - Nobody.....ever.
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,561
    Harford County, Maryland
    ^^^ agreed
    I tried the 1911 route. Just had to try it. Two frames. One still not started. Two jigs because I bought the first jig used.... and unknown to me at purchase abused. I got the second jig for the hammer and sear pin locations since it has hardened bushings. The second jig you still need a mill. If I had a mill I wouldn’t need a jig, I would already have a fixture. Both will be serial numbered with ATF.

    If you are doing carbon or stainless steel you will need another cutter tip. Setting the deck height requires lotsa carefull filing with first jig. Same with second jig, but hey, I need a mill to cut the rails so the mill would still be used for the deck.

    Top all that, some of the 80% 1911 frames out there have other dimensions, critical dimensions, out of spec. One could buy a very good frame and pay ffl fees multiple times for one frame and jig. An assembled now SA Mil-Spec wi set you hack $550 +/-. An 80% frame with jig and attendant parts will set you back at least $700-800. One is going to be hard pressed to do better on the frame and slide fit to equal the Mil-Spec I just got finished improving.
     

    teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    ^^^ agreed
    I tried the 1911 route. Just had to try it. Two frames. One still not started. Two jigs because I bought the first jig used.... and unknown to me at purchase abused. I got the second jig for the hammer and sear pin locations since it has hardened bushings. The second jig you still need a mill. If I had a mill I wouldn’t need a jig, I would already have a fixture. Both will be serial numbered with ATF.

    If you are doing carbon or stainless steel you will need another cutter tip. Setting the deck height requires lotsa carefull filing with first jig. Same with second jig, but hey, I need a mill to cut the rails so the mill would still be used for the deck.

    Top all that, some of the 80% 1911 frames out there have other dimensions, critical dimensions, out of spec. One could buy a very good frame and pay ffl fees multiple times for one frame and jig. An assembled now SA Mil-Spec wi set you hack $550 +/-. An 80% frame with jig and attendant parts will set you back at least $700-800. One is going to be hard pressed to do better on the frame and slide fit to equal the Mil-Spec I just got finished improving.

    I’ve done 2 steel 1911’s. I also have about $800-1000 in Matrix Precision jigs.
     

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