DIY Primers

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  • guzma393

    Active Member
    Jan 15, 2020
    739
    Severn, MD
    Sounds like the old H-48 formula, which is definitely corrosive. Here's a solid reference for DIY primers: http://aardvarkreloading.com/primers.html

    Vendors most likely do not offer it due to a liability standpoint. Selling raw materials to make a fairly strong and sensitive "energetic" sounds like trouble. This should only be done in small quantities.

    With all the naysayers aside, it's definitely possible to reload primers. It's just super tedious and inferior compared to store bought stuff.
     

    Mark K

    Active Member
    Sep 29, 2013
    280
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Sounds like the old H-48 formula, which is definitely corrosive.

    OK, so quite-possibly corrosive. I don't have any experience with corrosive primers, or powders for that matter. Just a matter of cleaning the firearm -- particularly bore -- after shooting? Which not everyone does, but I certainly do... Or does it cause other insidious damage?

    Here's a solid reference for DIY primers: http://aardvarkreloading.com/primers.html

    That looks like a great resource that I'll have to study. Thank you.

    With all the naysayers aside, it's definitely possible to reload primers. It's just super tedious and inferior compared to store bought stuff.

    Well, yeah, but with store-bought primers basically unavailable, that changes everything...

    Never heard of this. Are you to use a flat punch and flatten the ding out of the old primer too?

    I'm not doing this -- yet -- but yes, that's the idea. And of course take out and replace the anvil. I figure I'd need to somehow ultrasonically clean the stuff too, small as it is. Tedious as hell, but good to have an emergency procedure in case I run out of "real" primers.
     

    guzma393

    Active Member
    Jan 15, 2020
    739
    Severn, MD
    Corrosive ammo means that the primer is corrosive (smokeless powder is non-corrosive, but black powder is corrosive) due to containing chlorate salts (in the case of H48, potassium chlorate). After firing, the residue is hydrophilic, building moisture and eventual rusting in the barrel/wherever the residue resides.

    I pour hot water down the bore and gas system and scrub the bolt face and general areas with soap and water. I then spay everything down with CLP, wipe down the excess and let it air dry for 2-3 hours. The oily film stays behind and the gun is reassembled. It's a good practice to check 2-3 days after cleaning for any surface rust. Running the gun again will vaporize and seep out the rest of the CLP and is easily wiped off. Repeat this process for the next corrosive ammo firing.
     

    clsx

    Member
    Jan 10, 2021
    21
    You can also make potassium chlorate from electrolysis, as demonstrated here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itAnVJ2vpHQ

    Thanks guzma393 for tipping me off that that chlorate salts are hydrophilic. I just saw the video linked above a day or two ago and it had been on my mind to find out whether or not it was corrosive.
     

    guzma393

    Active Member
    Jan 15, 2020
    739
    Severn, MD
    OK... then... this stuff would probably work in an emergency, however you define that. As long as the gun is cleaned promptly and thoroughly.

    Without looking in detail at all the videos in http://aardvarkreloading.com/primers.html, what non-corrosive formula is do-able for the average person? Looks like EPS5, for one, isn't so much...

    Yeah, my only way of acquiring non-corrosive priming compound is crushing the rim of de-milled 22lr duds/22lr nail-gun blanks with a vice and extracting out a bit of the compound. Very tedious, but still something.
     

    Mark K

    Active Member
    Sep 29, 2013
    280
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Yeah, my only way of acquiring non-corrosive priming compound is crushing the rim of de-milled 22lr duds/22lr nail-gun blanks with a vice and extracting out a bit of the compound. Very tedious, but still something.

    Wow, definitely not worth it, since I'm gun-cleaning anyway.

    Any other insidious risks to corrosive primers, other than having to clean particularly the bore?
     

    whistlersmother

    Peace through strength
    Jan 29, 2013
    8,962
    Fulton, MD

    twybyll

    Active Member
    Jan 20, 2021
    422
    MD

    Mark K

    Active Member
    Sep 29, 2013
    280
    Colorado Springs, CO
    I just e-mailed the Prime-All people, and they confirmed that the compound is indeed corrosive. So yes, probably H-48.

    So it is important to clean the gun -- particularly barrel -- after each use.

    Should i use hot water, like black powder guns? Or is cleaning with like CLP good?

    How about other gun parts that aren't easy to get at, like the fire control group?
     

    erwos

    The Hebrew Hammer
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 25, 2009
    13,884
    Rockville, MD
    Corrosive is honestly no big deal. First, most of your AR is aluminum anyways. Second, the steel parts are super easy to clean - take out your BCG, give it a good scrub, and then run some hot water down your bore and over your FCG. Dry it off with a hair dryer... done. And, frankly, I usually do even less than that.
     

    whistlersmother

    Peace through strength
    Jan 29, 2013
    8,962
    Fulton, MD
    This one is not corrosive but looks like a crap load of work. 2 ingredients you can't buy and have to make??
    https://gunstreamer.com/watch/reloading-primers-homemade-primer-compound-eps5_76T8fpsxlTgUktc.html

    Ya'll research and tell me more.

    This is the modern compound for primers.

    Its the same thing Frost describes in the book mentioned above.

    If I remember correctly, this is the safest method in that it is not activated until adding water and dried.

    He has the advantage of having two compounds available that one can't buy.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    Corrosive is honestly no big deal. First, most of your AR is aluminum anyways. Second, the steel parts are super easy to clean - take out your BCG, give it a good scrub, and then run some hot water down your bore and over your FCG. Dry it off with a hair dryer... done. And, frankly, I usually do even less than that.

    Don't forget the gas tube.
     

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