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Ultimate Member
I have a few different types and never broke any with normal use.
Has anyone ever BROKEN an Aluminum AR-15 Reciever?
- Thread starter Americus
- Start date
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clandestine
AR-15 Savant
Another cause for Lower breakage is Contact with the Gas Key. When the Buffer or Buffer Spring don't limit when they are supposed to the Gas Key can contact the Lower Receiver where the Receiver Extension screws in.
This either breaks the Gas Key Bolts or breaks the lower.
This either breaks the Gas Key Bolts or breaks the lower.
I've seen evidence of this gas key contact on a 7.5" 5.56 AR pistol with a KX3 on it. Over gassed?
The rear of the lower hasn't broken yet. Think I need a new brake?
sailskidrive
Legalize the Constitution
I had a RRA 9mm lower split in half at the front of the magwell. I know another person who had the same thing happen. RRA replaced it free of charge. It happened sitting in my safe. I shot the rifle a few times, cleaned it and put it away - I would have noticed the crack if was present then. Next time I took it out it was cracked. My only thought was that the steel 9mm block expanded enough to crack the aluminum receiver, but I'm not sure. I didnt notice any temp fluctuations in my safe that might cause it, but that's the only thing I can think of.
I never checked to see if it had any effect on function. I imagine it still would have worked OK.
Are you sure Chad didn't get a hold of that lower and "crack 'her open"???
ohen cepel
Ultimate Member
I saw two M16A2's break, one was run over by a tracked vehicle (that will do it).
The other had the butt stock screw work out enough that it was not holding the buffer tube retaining pin in place and that caused the receiver to crack in the pin area. I did see several which had the screw back out with use/lack of maintainance, only 1 did I see break though.
I saw them take a lot of abuse (used as a step/stretcher) and shot a LOT of ammo through them over the years with few failures, none of which while in use.
The other had the butt stock screw work out enough that it was not holding the buffer tube retaining pin in place and that caused the receiver to crack in the pin area. I did see several which had the screw back out with use/lack of maintainance, only 1 did I see break though.
I saw them take a lot of abuse (used as a step/stretcher) and shot a LOT of ammo through them over the years with few failures, none of which while in use.
gregaarms
Machinist Junkie
I bet she was scared to death and poor girl probably had a brown out in her pants as well....I know I WOULD!!!
I never fathomed that an AR would have a catastrophic malfunction that bad. I guess you learn something new every day.
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
It wont happen from overgassing, it happens because the Buffer Tube is too long inside, or the Buffer is too short.
The KX3 is way overused from what I have seen and does often overgass a firearm. IMHO they shouldn't be used unless you have a undergassed gun.
Heres how you test for Gas Key Contact:
Remove the Upper and strip the Bolt from the Carrier. Now, put the Carrier against the buffer like it would sit when its assembled and push it back into the buffer tube all the way. If your Gas Key is touching the Lower Receiver Ring (The part that holds the buffer tube in the lower) then you have a problem. You should always have at least a 1/8" to 1/16" gap between the rear of the Gas Key and the Lower receiver Ring when its fully compressed. The only part that should make contact is the Buffer Bumper on the back of the Buffer Tube.
I'm out of state visiting in-laws but I'm pretty sure the tube is too long or the buffer is too short, or I'm over gassed.
There is evidence that the gas key is striking the lower where the buffer tube attaches. The anodizing has worn off the lower in the shape of the base of the gas key where the gas key is hitting the lower. The only reason I have the kx3 on the gun is because its the only muzzle device I know of that's long enough to reach beyond the 9" seekins/spikes bar rail I have on the gun without directing the flash through the rail. Burned hands are a concern there. I thought about removing the bar rail, putting a 7" rail on it and just running a A2 flash hider on it, but I don't want to put more money into the gun.
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
You can overcome some of the overgassing with a XH Buffer from Heavybuffers.com but they are $85.00-$125.00. Even if its overgassed it shouldn't make contact with the Gas Key, that is an issue with the buffer being too short or the buffer tube being too deep.
To eliminate the strike issue you may need to put a different Buffer Tube on it or get a spacer made to put inside the rear of the Buffer Tube to limit travel. This will eliminate the Carrier to Receiver contact.
This is something I cover on my AR Classes but I don't have any problems sharing it freely. A lot of AR's have this issue and its not something many seem to be aware of.
A little off the OP's topic, but... is this because of the restriction caused by the KX3? I am playing with designs for a muzzle device for my pistol build and trying to learn all I can in regards to FH and MB's... Thanks!
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
Krink Breaks and Noveske Pig Brakes are best suited for guns with short dwell time (Distance from the Gas Port to the Muzzle). The shorter the distance the more issues that can arise because pressure is sometimes not sufficient. The KKX traps gas and allows more pressure to buildup and cycle the action.
This is why many people use them on SBR's and Pistols because the gas block is close to the muzzle which means the gun can be undergassed. For carbine barrels they are not good unless the gas port is drastically undersized.
240 towles
master of puppets
I have seen one break the pivot pin holes off the lower while doing bayonet drills back at benning in basic. Old ass A3 constructed from A2 parts. The upper broke clear off of the lower during a downward slash on the tire guys.
I've thought about just converting my pistol to a carbine gun and being done with it, but if you'd like to check out my lower and maybe use it for demonstrative purposes for your classes, let me know. I can take some photos and send them or swing by the shop.
I'm using a barrel with pistol length gas, WMD nickel boron BCG, Spikes Tactical ST-T2 buffer, spikes pistol length spring, and phase 5 tube.
Makes perfect sense. I am running a 7" bbl on my 556 pistol and so far no issues from undergassing. Upgraded the buffer to an H2, still fine, just trying to figure the best combination to tame/control the muzzle blast a bit. I need to start a new thread.. lol
240 towles
master of puppets
AT ft irwin, I remember 10th group lost one of their full auto M4s. They spent the day driving up and down in their awesome-mobiles looking for it. I had taken the duece and a couple joes over to the China lake A-10 range to steal their wooden tank targets for firewood. Driving back, we ran it over before finding it. Broke the charging handle and cracked the holo backup on the acog, but the rifle still fired full auto simmunition just fine. We held onto it until the SF boys finally stopped and asked us if we had seen it, then we turned it over to them. Opfor wins again.
ObsceneJesster
Ultimate Member
- Jan 31, 2011
- 2,958
Chad...What makes contact with the Gas Key if the buffer is to short or too deep? Also, is there any tell tale signs we can look for to see if this is happening?
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
Ill do a fast and dirty video summary and post it up. Give me a few hours.
smokey
2A TEACHER
- Jan 31, 2008
- 31,534
ehh, seems tough enough.
Lou45
R.I.P.
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
Somebody needs to ask Putneyswope (member here) how he broke his last month.
I don't profess to be an expert, but the few failures I've seen firsthand have normally ended in upper receiver damage. Lowers were normally in good shape.
Now I'll admit I haven't seen that many catastrophic failures. So my opinion should be taken for what it's worth.
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