Bedding a 10/22

The short version:

I have an all-Kidd 10/22, and I'm looking to have it bedded into its stock (Revolution Extreme laminate). I've been reading up on the process, and I don't think I really have the tools or space (I'm a renter, so no 'workshop' or anything like that) to take on a job like this properly. I don't think a set of basic, cheap hand tools, working on a coffee table would really do it justice. Nor do I have any experience bedding an action, and don't want to do anything to screw up what is an already amazing rifle.

Is this a job that most gunsmiths are capable of/willing to take on? I had Bollinger originally set up the rifle for me (fitting/timing the barrel, inletting the stock for the Kidd rear tang, etc), and would be plenty to happy to take the rifle back to them for this. Should I expect something like a few hundred bucks and a few weeks turnaround?


The long version:

The rifle is an all-Kidd classic receiver w rear tang, 18" bull, 6oz 2 stage trigger, with a Leupold VXII 6-18x and a Revolution Extreme stock.

The rifle is incredibly accurate, but sometimes I get 'flyers' that I'm not sure are my fault. I'm shooting Eley Match from a bipod and rear bag, and on a good day I can group under 1" at 100yd, but some shots will for no apparent reason hit 1-2" off. Maybe 1 or 2 out of a 10rd mag. It's absolutely possible that it's shooter error (I am not a particularly great shot by any means), but with an 18x scope and a 6oz trigger, I'm reasonably certain that I'm breaking the shot in the right place when I get these 'flyers'.

The rifle does have the Kidd rear tang, and it seems quite solid in the stock, but this kind of behavior sounds similar to other stories I've read about funny business going on relating to barrel floating and action bedding.

Now, I will say that the barrel is not free floating in the stock, and that's almost certainly the first place to look. Despite there being near-infinite opinions on floating 10/22 barrels out there, Kidd is consistent in insisting that their barrels should be completely free floated for the entire length of the barrel. So, I'm planning on doing this one way or another - this is certainly something I could undertake on my own with just a dowel and some sandpaper. But, I'm thinking if I'm going to take the gun to a gunsmith to have the action bedded, this would just be a no-brainer to have him do as well while the gun is in their hands. I fully recognize that free floating the barrel has the potential for significantly more improvement on accuracy than any action bedding.

It seems the general consensus on bedding a 10/22 action is "it certainly can't hurt, and will probably help, though it could also have no effect". Part of my thinking on this is that as much money as I have in this rifle, I might as well just spend the money to get that potential last 1% out of it. I'm sure pursuing this is very much so subject to the law of diminishing returns, and wouldn't necessarily disagree with those that might critique me as having 'more money than sense' to pay a gunsmith to do this. Perhaps - but this rifle is admittedly an exercise in "because I can."

So am I being *totally* crazy, or just a little crazy? Should I only worry about free floating the barrel for now, and since I do have the rear tang installed, only consider bedding the action if the 'flyers' persist? A few hundred bucks is worth it to me to bed the action and remove any "what ifs" dwelling in my mind regarding my "ultimate 10/22" build. I'm very much aware we're talking about small margins, and diminishing returns, but I also don't want to just be a lunatic about it.

Assuming nobody talks me out of this, are there an particular recommendations on a gunsmith to perform this? I'm in the Baltimore area, but have no problems driving an hour or two if it makes sense. I've been to a few shops/gunsmiths over the years whose bedside manner have really turned me off, but I had a very good experience with Bollinger a few years back, and would be happy to return to them if they would be good for the job.

Sorry for the long post, but I thoroughly appreciate any thoughts, comments, or recommendations anyone has to offer. Thanks all!

I sent you a e-mail moments ago. You can call or e-mail me at remarkert@comcast.net to
have your concerns explained. Happy to help/direct if I can. Bob Markert

It's not that hard to do it yourself. While I haven't done a 10-22, I have done an M1 Garand & a Savage Model 110 and did not have any problems.
I used acuglas both times and just followed the instructions.

I bedded my 10/22 with electrical tape to take the "slop" out of the stock/action fit. I find that torqueing the action and tang screws to the proper specs will give you the desired result (20in./lbs for a Ruger. Kidd recommends 10in./lbs for the tang and actions screws). If your stock already fits pretty tightly you should be fine without doing a full bed.

I have bedded two rifles in the past on a desk in my old apartment. I used JBweld and clear shoe polish as a releasing agent to fill in the areas around the front and rear action screws, as well as the recoil lug and the 1st inch of the barrel. The bedding jobs I did came out well and did improve accuracy some also. Nothing major though.

My 10/22 started out as an mid 90s carbine and has been extensively upgraded. Kidd trigger, whistle pig acculite barrel, Boyds stock, 4-16X scope, etc. It will hit soda cans at 200yds using cci mini mags. At 50yds it shoots one ragged hole covered up by a dime. I don't think you can get much better than that with basic ammo. I had a Win 52 model B target version with a 40X scope on it and the 10/22 I built out shoots it.

Long story short, if you want to bed it you can but it's not going to make you a better shooter. I don't think I'd personally spend the money on bedding.